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Stacking Ceramic Pieces For Totem Pole


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#1 fruch

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 08:21 PM

I teach high school ceramics and my students have created a totem inspired by their north pacific totem pole unit. We are planning on putting  this in our school sculpture garden. The ceramic piece will be outside. We have already dug a two feet deep hole and plan on using a galvanized pole that is the same diameter as the holes in the ceramics pieces themselves. This piece will be permanent so I want to glue the pieces together. Originally I was planning on using liquid nail but I am having reservations. What would other suggest I use instead or would liquid nail be alright. Also, should I fell the bottom section with sand to help with weight distribution? The sections are pretty large. Thanks in advance for the help. 



#2 Benzine

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 10:34 PM

JB Weld makes a good epoxy, that should hold up.  

 

Whatever you use, it has to handle freezing and thawing.  Along those lines, what kind of clay body are you using, and what Cone are you firing to?  The clay will need to be vitrified, in order to tolerate the conditions outdoors.


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#3 Mug

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 06:04 AM

Some pictures or dimentions would be helpfull to grasp the overall size of the project.

 

If the sculpture is glazed and the surface is shiny, you can use 100% silicon caulking...very strong stuff on a non-pourous surface.

Silicon does not work well on a pourus surface, epoxy may be better as Benzine mentioned.

Liquid nail is good for some things but it tends to get hard and brittle after it ages.



#4 Isculpt

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 09:28 AM

Mug is right about avoiding liquid nails, especially on slick surfaces.  As a trim carpenter, I used it to attach heavy decorative moldings on the front of fine cabinetry and was surprised and embarrassed when it "let go" three years later. 



#5 Mark C.

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 10:09 AM

My vote is JB wield-once that sets off its permanent.

Mark


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#6 Marcia Selsor

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 02:58 PM

Sounds like you are past the "planning stage" for assemblage. I would have recommended using a base with weld steel rod and have the piece slip over the pole through holes top and bottom of each piece.Or you could use clear silicon caulk.I think it could work on the raw clay but who knows.
JB Weld nevers fails. PC 7 or PC 11 are also fail safe.One is Black and one is white.
There is also the kneadable epoxy that many ceramic artists use that can be colored or painted. They have pigments for it. I think it is called Valley epoxy. Grahm Marks developed it.




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#7 fruch

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 04:22 PM

Sorry guys i thought I attached a file with a picture. The ceramic pieces do have a hole on the top and bottom so a pipe can help support the piece.

 

Benzine what do you mean by "vitrified" if it is going to be outside. I think the consensus is to use JB Weld. Does anyone know if they sell large packages? I only ever see the small tubes in the hardware stores.



#8 Marcia Selsor

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 08:34 PM

If this is for a harsh climate, the clay should be freeze-proof.
have you done any freeze proof testing on this clay? That is what benzine is talking about.

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#9 fruch

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 02:50 PM

How do you check to see if it will be freeze proof?



#10 Mark C.

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 02:56 PM

Try this link

http://community.cer...sting#entry8982


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