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hershey8

Fireright Sr Kiln Controller

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hershey8    13

I love it when people give me stuff! I am a "stuff" magnet. Today, someone was getting rid of about 250 lbs of stoneware and low-fire clay, some still bagged and in the box. All I'll have to do is rehydrate and wedge. But also in the boxes of goodies she was tossing, was an old fireright sr controller and a paragon pyrometer, and numerous dried up glazes and masons stains. Now I'm guessing  the controller is less than state-of-the-art, but I'll bet it works, and even if it doesn't I'm thinking it is repairable. Anyone ever used one of these things? Any tips on rehydrating glaze that is dried out in the jar? Whooppee!     john autry

 

 

 

frit happens

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bciskepottery    925

Rehydrating glaze and mason stains . . . break up the dried chunks into small ones, or powder, then add water and mix. Sieve glazes if you think necessary and quantity permits.

 

Rehydrating dried clay . . . open the plastic bag, add a cup or two of water, close bag. Place bag into an empty five gallon plastic bucket and add water until the water level is level with the top of the clay. Let sit for a couple days. Check and add more water inside the bag until you get the softness you prefer. The water pressure will force the water in the bag into the clay and rehydrate it.

 

Controller . . . I'll pass on that one.

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Mark C.    1,807

I use a fireright controlle on my electric.

Its a knob with numbers and a led on a control panel.

I wired mine into a control box.

It ramps the kiln up (all switches are set on high)

The cone sitter turns off the kiln with a saftey tmer shut off as backup

This is all old school like it was forever until the newer control boards on kilns became standard.

Whats yours look like?

Mark

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hershey8    13

Rehydrating glaze and mason stains . . . break up the dried chunks into small ones, or powder, then add water and mix. Sieve glazes if you think necessary and quantity permits.

 

Rehydrating dried clay . . . open the plastic bag, add a cup or two of water, close bag. Place bag into an empty five gallon plastic bucket and add water until the water level is level with the top of the clay. Let sit for a couple days. Check and add more water inside the bag until you get the softness you prefer. The water pressure will force the water in the bag into the clay and rehydrate it.

 

Controller . . . I'll pass on that one.

Thanks for the instructions, Sounds easy enough. I was afraid they might have a shelf life, though I can't see how, that might make them unusable. This is good news, as their are many glazes that I would otherwise just have to throw away.   john autry

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hershey8    13

I use a fireright controlle on my electric.

Its a knob with numbers and a led on a control panel.

I wired mine into a control box.

It ramps the kiln up (all switches are set on high)

The cone sitter turns off the kiln with a saftey tmer shut off as backup

This is all old school like it was forever until the newer control boards on kilns became standard.

Whats yours look like?

Mark

Mark, I'm not sure exactly how to describe this, except that it looks a little like a stereo, lots of rectangular buttons and a digital readout. And then there's another box that contains a little pc board and a transformer and one heck of a contactor (75 amp). Something like cat.5 telephone line connects to two boxes with telephone connectors. Of course, there is also a sensor that plugs into the first box. Old school is cool. When something breaks, you stand a better chance of repairing it without having to send it off, imo. If this thing works, it will make some things doable in my studio (ok, basement) that were not possible before, Fingers crossed. Thanks for the reply.          john autry

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hershey8    13

 

I use a fireright controlle on my electric.

Its a knob with numbers and a led on a control panel.

I wired mine into a control box.

It ramps the kiln up (all switches are set on high)

The cone sitter turns off the kiln with a saftey tmer shut off as backup

This is all old school like it was forever until the newer control boards on kilns became standard.

Whats yours look like?

Mark

Mark, I'm not sure exactly how to describe this, except that it looks a little like a stereo, lots of rectangular buttons and a digital readout. And then there's another box that contains a little pc board and a transformer and one heck of a contactor (75 amp). Something like cat.5 telephone line connects to two boxes with telephone connectors. Of course, there is also a sensor that plugs into the first box. Old school is cool. When something breaks, you stand a better chance of repairing it without having to send it off, imo. If this thing works, it will make some things doable in my studio (ok, basement) that were not possible before, Fingers crossed. Thanks for the reply.          john autry

 

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Mark C.    1,807

Your controller is even older than what I'm using . I had a friend with your unit-it was controlled  with a digital pyrometer lead (as far as temp readouts. It has its own contactor box which supplies juice to kiln. 

you hard wire the kiln to this box.

Fire right is still around I think.

My unit is just a small cuircuit board and I supplied my own contactor.

Mark

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hershey8    13

Your controller is even older than what I'm using . I had a friend with your unit-it was controlled  with a digital pyrometer lead (as far as temp readouts. It has its own contactor box which supplies juice to kiln. 

you hard wire the kiln to this box.

Fire right is still around I think.

My unit is just a small cuircuit board and I supplied my own contactor.

Mark

Thanks Mark. I'll try to contact fire right this week.    john autry

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