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SAS Pottery

Naked Raku - Resist Slip Falls Off Of Bisque

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SAS Pottery    1

I have now ventured into my first "naked" raku test piece - it's been terra sig'd/bisqued and ready to go into the next phase. I poured a Soldate 60, thick but "runny" pudding-like slip over it and it "stuck" fine. However, it began to peel off as it dried - so I can't put the overglaze on it. My questions are: 1) Soldate 60 is my regular throwing clay - should I use a naked raku slip recipe instead? 2) Or is it my "process"? Do I just let the slip get to a "cool to the touch" (not entirely dry) consistency and then put on the outer glaze? 3) Am I firing the piece in the kiln as  "bone dry" or just after the glaze has set up over the slip resist? The written materials I have read don't mention the issue of the resist slip peeling off the piece prior to firing it, so the naked raku community's help would be appreciated as I get off to a better start - thanks - Scott

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PeterH    87

Hi, When doing 2-part naked raku I've always used a special purpose resist slip

containg 1 part flint and 2 parts china clay (by volume). A little food colouring may

help to see missed bits when covering this with the crackle glaze.

 

I've always tried to fire the pieces bone dry (drying them on top of a kiln if necessary). In

my experience it doesn't take much moisture to cause a pot to explode in a raku firing.

 

It's usual to wave the pot about a little before putting it into the reduction bin, to ensure

that the glaze has started to crackle.

 

Regards, Peter

 

I've never been able to get hold of the right fireclays, so have never tried one-part naked

raku. From reading about it, I get the idea that it is a very different process. So it may be

best to avoid trying to mix-and-match ideas from the two processes, at least at first. 

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