Riorose Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 Good morning friends: Does anyone have experience with gluing pieces that have broken or fallen off during bisque firing? Here people sometimes use UHU glue to glue pieces on before dipping in glazes and then glaze firing. I have done this successfuly with a tiny piece but does any body know if this works for sprigs or heavier pieces? I have a vase where i sculpted leaves and pears then I attached them. The pear fell off during bisque firing and i want to glaze. I actually already used E6000 on the piece but now I wonder if it will melt and fall before the glaze can secure it? The piece is German stoneware and I want to use a cone 6 glaze. Thank you Rosemary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 Hi Riorose, **beware of weird edited notations that don't make sense!**<br>I have reattached pieces using a paperclay patch. I reattached a student's handle to a pitcher and after the last firing it was strong enough to use full of a liquid. The glue is not a good idea. You will need to re-bisque after patching with paperclay.<br><font color="#1C2837"><font face="arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif"><font size="2">repairing with paper clay:Try to make a a few tablespoons worth at a time. It molds so no need to make more until needed.Take some of your dried clay and pulverize it with a rolling pin or spoon. Try for a 1/4 cup. In a container, soak toilet paper...maybe a couple of feet or a yard or so. Tear it up into small pieces and soak over night. Squeeze some of the water out of it. In a blender put the toilet paper mash, add some water so the toilet paper can be fluid, add a little vinegar (1/2-1 tsp or so) , some karo syrup (1/4-1/2 tsp or so) , a dash of sodium silicate (a drop or two) and then clay. Blend to a thick paste consistency. You want the clay to be the prime ingredient. The toilet paper can be 15-25% of the volume. By squeezing it, you can visualize this estimate.Before applying the paste, wet the bisque surface so it doesn't suck in the moisture from the paste too quickly. You can even re-attach broken parts using this system. Re-bisque fire the repaired piece.</font></font></font><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837" face="arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">You can cut back on water and increase both the vinegar and karo syrup.</span></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837" face="arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font><font color="#1C2837"><font face="arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif"><font size="2">Marcia</font></font></font> </div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bridgespottery Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Re: Glue If a small piece needs to be re-attached before a final glaze - there are a few variable that make or break it for me. I sometimes glue the piece on and then glaze it well around the attached part. If the attached part is going to fall off based on gravity - then it may do so in the kiln. If it's something like a knob on top of a lid, then gravity will keep it there regardless of the glue. If the attached piece is on the side hanging off - it never works, if it's sitting on something it works. Best of luck. Patricia Bridges Bridges Pottery www.bridgespottery.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riorose Posted December 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Re: Glue If a small piece needs to be re-attached before a final glaze - there are a few variable that make or break it for me. I sometimes glue the piece on and then glaze it well around the attached part. If the attached part is going to fall off based on gravity - then it may do so in the kiln. If it's something like a knob on top of a lid, then gravity will keep it there regardless of the glue. If the attached piece is on the side hanging off - it never works, if it's sitting on something it works. Best of luck. Patricia Bridges Bridges Pottery www.bridgespottery.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riorose Posted December 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Yep, and yep. I thought that gravity was going to be my enemy here and this is confirmed. Now I have to pull it apart and use the paperclay remedy. Thanks to you both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossyrock Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 I tried the glue.....and learned the hard way that was not a good idea. So now I use paperclay to repair cracks and reattach handles, etc. I mix up about a quart of paperclay and keep it in an airtight container. I haven't had a problem with mold and have used from the same container for over a year. I put slip I have made using Magic Water in a blender, add shredded insulation purchased at a hardware store, and blend well. It's nice to have it already mixed when I need to make a repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 I have used Amaco's Bisque Fix and can verify it works very well. I have even used it to repair green ware by mixing it with a small amount of slip for a color match with darker clays. It dries rock hard and fires well. Just follow the instructions, and do not sand or inhale. Use this link to view: http://www.amaco.com/shop/product-322-amaco-bisque-fix.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riorose Posted August 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Hi Riorose, **beware of weird edited notations that don't make sense!**<br>I have reattached pieces using a paperclay patch. I reattached a student's handle to a pitcher and after the last firing it was strong enough to use full of a liquid. The glue is not a good idea. You will need to re-bisque after patching with paperclay.<br><font color="#1C2837"><font face="arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif"><font size="2">repairing with paper clay:Try to make a a few tablespoons worth at a time. It molds so no need to make more until needed.Take some of your dried clay and pulverize it with a rolling pin or spoon. Try for a 1/4 cup. In a container, soak toilet paper...maybe a couple of feet or a yard or so. Tear it up into small pieces and soak over night. Squeeze some of the water out of it. In a blender put the toilet paper mash, add some water so the toilet paper can be fluid, add a little vinegar (1/2-1 tsp or so) , some karo syrup (1/4-1/2 tsp or so) , a dash of sodium silicate (a drop or two) and then clay. Blend to a thick paste consistency. You want the clay to be the prime ingredient. The toilet paper can be 15-25% of the volume. By squeezing it, you can visualize this estimate.Before applying the paste, wet the bisque surface so it doesn't suck in the moisture from the paste too quickly. You can even re-attach broken parts using this system. Re-bisque fire the repaired piece.</font></font></font><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837" face="arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">You can cut back on water and increase both the vinegar and karo syrup.</span></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837" face="arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font><font color="#1C2837"><font face="arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif"><font size="2">Marcia</font></font></font> </div> BTW, I used your method of reattchment, re bisqued and then did the glaze fire. It held during the glaze fire although because of surface differences I needed to switch to an opaque glaze. It looks pretty good and I will use the method again if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riorose Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 HYoly cow!!! I was just reviewing my posts and I noticed this thread had 89,000 views! I guess there are a lot of glue challenged potters out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~janie Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I use several types of clay, and I keep a container of paper clay from each type of clay in my studio. I love this stuff! It has simplified my life no end! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerdry Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 Hey, Mossyrock, what kind of insulation are you talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoppyParry Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 I tried the glue.....and learned the hard way that was not a good idea. So now I use paperclay to repair cracks and reattach handles, etc. I mix up about a quart of paperclay and keep it in an airtight container. I haven't had a problem with mold and have used from the same container for over a year. I put slip I have made using Magic Water in a blender, add shredded insulation purchased at a hardware store, and blend well. It's nice to have it already mixed when I need to make a repair. When you say it's not a good idea, what happened when you used glue? Was it just that the piece was discoloured and didn't turn out very well or did it shatter in the kiln? The ears broke off a bunny I made, I have already glued them back on with uhu and was not going to glaze but if possible I would like to glaze. I use a communal kiln so I will not glaze the bunny if there is a chance that it will shatter and break other people's work, however, if it just that the finish isn't perfect, I don't mind. If you could let me know what happened for you that would be really helpful. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guycruls Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 I have the same issue, with a key difference: I am not planning on firing my biscuit again. So I am looking for a glue, a strong glue, one that is appropriate for the material. Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 46 minutes ago, guycruls said: I have the same issue, with a key difference: I am not planning on firing my biscuit again. So I am looking for a glue, a strong glue, one that is appropriate for the material. Many thanks ya know I read this post and I am surprised any glue would withstand 2000 degrees. I obviously could be wrong but I bet it didn't and the break was just sealed by glaze. If that's the case then all it did was hold it in place and its a weak flaw in pot. I would go with paper clay or AMACO product if I were you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 If you're dead set on not re-bisquing, you can still use the paper clay patch but you'll have to treat the piece as a once fire and go very slowly up to temp in the kiln. I'd suggest spraying your glaze on as well, as water from the glaze will re-wet the paper clay patch, and it could fall off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guycruls Posted March 7, 2019 Report Share Posted March 7, 2019 I’m not planning on firing a broken biscuit. what would be a super strong glue for the purpose? many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted March 7, 2019 Report Share Posted March 7, 2019 If you're not going to refire at all, there are lots of epoxies or construction adhesives that will work for decorative pieces. If the piece is functional, there's nothing that will really stand up over a long time or enable a piece to still be used in the dishwasher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted March 7, 2019 Report Share Posted March 7, 2019 36 minutes ago, guycruls said: I’m not planning on firing a broken biscuit. what would be a super strong glue for the purpose? many thanks Slow set JB weld-it will last years in the dishwasher . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cathryn Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 Hi All! If I glue two pieces of bisque-fired pottery together using a standard household glue, what happens in the kiln during the glaze fire? Does the glue melt and the two pieces separate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 Hi @Cathryn, The glue will burn off in the early part of the firing, well before any glaze materials even think about melting. So yes, the two pieces would separate if they’re not supported somehow and gravity isn’t keeping them in contact with each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cathryn Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 Thank you so much! Very helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 @Cathryn You can join with spooze then rebisque when totally dry and glaze. Don't know if anyone has straight glazed after bisque and "spoozed" but aI think maybe I've read of that........ Search "spooze" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.