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Building A Top Loader Kiln Lid.

Kiln Brick Cement

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#21 High Bridge Pottery

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 11:46 AM

Flipped the lid today and filled in the gaps on the other side. Managed to add an extra cm to the width from being unable to push the bricks together enough. Hopefully all the joins will be ok.

Flipped it back over after a few hours and a bit of heat gun to start cutting. Got 3/4 of the way round with a jigsaw until the blade was very blunt. Have to go and buy another 2 at least to get the cut finished. Hardest part is going to be getting the circles to line up on each side.

 

Dust masks all round.
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#22 High Bridge Pottery

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 10:47 AM

Starting to feel better and better about this lid. I was very sceptical at first but now I am only a little worried.
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#23 John Hertzfeld

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 11:42 AM

Looks good, there was a spray-on product in the video above that was suppose to increase durability, are you going to prep it with some of that too?

#24 High Bridge Pottery

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 01:10 PM

Thank you John.

 

Yes I would like to get some sort of protective coating but I don't know what to use and have little money left. Not sure what they used in the video and I don't have their custom built curing box :(

 

Probably have to wait till next month when I get some more money.



#25 John Hertzfeld

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 04:18 AM

Hey, Paragon, and the other kiln/equipment companies too, have all the info you'll need, in most cases. It looks like they sell the kiln brick wash for lids on the paragon site. They also have a "pointers" section for the application.

http://www.paragonwe...ter.cfm?PID=212

I'm sure the curing kiln is to handle their volume of production in a timely fashion.

#26 High Bridge Pottery

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Posted 09 September 2014 - 01:27 PM

If anybody was wondering how this project went, well, I would say not the best! After a few firings a crack started to appear across the middle. Then the guy who I used to share the studio with (now left after many problems) decided to put another loose layer of bricks on top while I was away and helped the crack go all the way through the brick.

 

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What was my mistake?

I assumed the kiln cement would arrive at the right consistency to get on with.

 

I tried my best to research but I never read anywhere about watering down the cement until I bought Olsen's kiln book. I should have bought it before starting this project... Looking back at the Pargon kiln video their cement was a lot more fluid and I should have noticed :(

 

Lots of the joins ended up being 5mm instead of the recommended 1mm. Mixing up the cement into a thinner consistency would, I think, have given me much better results.

 

In the end I am selling this piece of ... and buying myself a shiny new kiln so I can stress out about more important things. Still it has taught me a lot battling with it to make it work properly.



#27 neilestrick

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Posted 09 September 2014 - 01:33 PM

I hate to say it, but if the mortar joints are good then the cracks usually appear in the bricks more than the joints. Also, if you ever do this again, do not use a simple running bond like you did, because you have long joints running all the way across the lid which aren't strong. Next time do more of a circular pattern, so you have short joints that are spanned by whole bricks, if that makes sense.


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#28 High Bridge Pottery

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Posted 09 September 2014 - 01:39 PM

Something like the picture in the first post? I was going to go with that idea but couldn't work out the logistics of sticking them together.

 

Lots of mistakes made but lots learnt. I knew it was going to fail when I measured the mortar and it was 5x too big!

 

I won't be doing it again any time soon  :huh:  I now have 80 K26 IFB to do something with... No ideas come to mind yet. 



#29 neilestrick

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Posted 09 September 2014 - 03:07 PM

Something like the picture in the first post?

 

Yep.


Neil Estrick
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