Stellaria Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 So I tried out my Diana's Fake Ash and Jeannie's Purple ^6 ox glazes on a nice smooth white stoneware, and they are just beautiful! Very happy with them! However, the Jeannie's Purple is extremely well-behaved. Even overlapping it a good bit over the fake ash, it didn't move a smidge. I'd actually like it to run a bit, just to add a bit of interest to the transition between the two. Is there anything I could add to it to encourage it to blend and run just a bit? The formula for Jeannie's Purple is: Neph Sy 18 Ferro Frit 3134 14 Whiting 20 OM4 Ball Clay 18 Silica 30 Chrome Oxide .2% TIn Oxide 3.75% Cobalt Carbonate .6% I am also open to other glaze formula suggestions, if it will get me a reliable pretty purple that will move a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Looking at the inside of the mug, I'd say it did move a fair amount where it cam into contact with the liner glaze. If you overlap more with the fake ash it will definitely run, as fake ash glazes are quite runny. But if you want the purple to move more on its own, increase the Frit by 2% increments until you get it where you want it. Can you post the fake ash recipe? I'd like to test that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Maybe try reversing the order of glazes. Put the purple on first, then the fake ash glaze with an overlap over part of the purple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaria Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Fake Ash Glaze Recipe Cone 6, reduction Bone Ash 5% Dolomite 25% Lithium Carbonate 2% Strontium Carbonate 9% Frit 3134 (Ferro) 10% Kentucky Ball Clay (OM 4) 24% Cedar Heights Redart 23% Silica (Flint) 2% Total 100% This is a beautifully variegated fake ash cone 6 glaze. It is a brighter yellow on porcelain with hints of green where thicker, and terra cotta-colored where thin. It is not stable because it is low in silica, but to alter it would change the ash effect. While it does not meet strict requirements of stability, I use it anyway because I substituted strontium for barium. That is from CAD..."Ten Tried and True Cone 6 Glaze Recipes Available for Download! By Diana Pancioli, June 8, 2009" You'll notice that it says it's for reduction. When I used it, it was fired in oxidation, and I am very pleased with the colors and effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 I agree that reversing may help get what you want. Put the fake ash at he top and the purple on the bottom. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaria Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Thanks, everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay lover Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 You have some very nice looking glazes there. I especially like the green. Here is a purple, credited to Lana Wilson, that I got at a workshop . It is very pretty, but does not run that I know of. Custer F spar 26.5 Gerstley B 8.3 silica 32.1 whiting 11.8 Neph, sy 14.1 lithium carb 3.58 magnesium carb 1.6 bentonite 2.0 add cobalt carb .60 tin oxide 4.78 chrome .17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta12 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Clay lover, is that purple more of a Pinkish purple than Stell's? Just wondering. Nice glazes, btw, Stell! Roberta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaria Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Thanks! I really love them And am so happy I found Glazemixer so I didn't have to find a place to stash leftover glaze chemicals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaria Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Clay lover, which green? The one on the stone toward the bottom? That's just Rev. Xavier's Warm Jade Green on Standard's brown stoneware I was particularly impressed with how the Bright Sky above it came out on the brown clay. I've never seen it look so brilliantly blue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay lover Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I am admiring the one at the bottom most position, maybe it is more teal that green? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaria Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Yup, that's the warm Jade green one. Before I joined the studio and got everyone to fall in love with Waterfall Brown, RXWJG was the go-to insta-awesome glaze that everyone at the Arts Center tended to use on everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthfan Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 All my ceramic chemistry research suggests that it is alumina that stiffens the glaze. If you could replace some of the clay with silica, the glaze should move more. You would have to do many tests. I would start by mixing up and sieving a 100 gram batch with only 5% of the clay that is in the original recipe. Then create a line blend with silica. Dip a little test ring and label it, then add 4% silica. Stir it up well and dip another little test ring and label it. Repeat a couple of times. You have to remember that each time you dip the test ring, you are diminishing the quantity of glaze so adding 4% is actually adding somewhat more than 4%. But for your first firing it is very informative. In your next firing you can be more precise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaria Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 What do you mean by creating a line blend? I don't know that term. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay lover Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Stellaria, you must really know how to fire that green, I looked it up on line and found rather insipid light green with no texture definition. yours looks MUCH better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaria Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Not me - I just take my stuff to a community center and the clay club head fires it all. He's pretty good at what he does, though. I think the clay color has a lot to do with the result, though. And keep in mind, the stones were fired flat, so no flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay lover Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Good point. None of the pieces I saw on pinterest were on brown clay. On the white, It looks very much like the Spearmint from mc6G. Which I like but turns olive on darker clays, which I DO NOT like. I will mix some XWJG. I saw reformulated and re re formulated recipes. I found this talc 9.0 whiting 16.0 custer spar 40.0 ferro frit 3124 9.0 EPK 10.0 silica 16.0 add copper carb 4.0 rutile 6.0 Is this like what you use.? On another note, If you like Waterfall, try it with 4% of the listed colorants,, very nice I use Spanish rio. Also try it with crocus martis, different and also nice results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaria Posted May 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I'll ask Jim for his RXWJG formula next time I get a chance, and see how it compares to what you've found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamt Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Have you tried mixing a little of your fake ash glaze with your purple and using that at the transition? I have gotten some interesting results using that technique rather than simply layering. 'Course that said, I have also gotten interesting results layering. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Good point. None of the pieces I saw on pinterest were on brown clay. On the white, It looks very much like the Spearmint from mc6G. Which I like but turns olive on darker clays, which I DO NOT like. I will mix some XWJG. I saw reformulated and re re formulated recipes. I found this talc 9.0 whiting 16.0 custer spar 40.0 ferro frit 3124 9.0 EPK 10.0 add copper carb 4.o rutile 6.0 silica 16.0 Is this like what you use.? On another note, If you like Waterfall, try it with 4% of the listed colorants,, very nice I use Spanish rio. Also try it with crocus martis, and different and also nice results. SIlica should be in the ingredients, not listed as an additive. It is an integral part of the glaze recipe, not to be played with unless you want to change the nature of hte glaze, the additives can be removed or increased up to a point but your glaze won't work the same if the silica is played with or left out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay lover Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Thanks, Stellaria. Misprint corrected, Babs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthfan Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 A line blend is a series of mixtures of only two ingredients. In this case, one ingredient is the mixed-up glaze without the silica, and the second ingredient is the silica. A triaxial blend is a series of mixtures of three ingredients, while a quadraxial blend is a series of mixtures of four ingredients. There is a video on Ceramic Arts Daily of John Britt demonstrating a line blend; and another video in which he demonstrates a triaxial of three different stains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 A line blend is a series of mixtures of only two ingredients. In this case, one ingredient is the mixed-up glaze without the silica, and the second ingredient is the silica. A triaxial blend is a series of mixtures of three ingredients, while a quadraxial blend is a series of mixtures of four ingredients. There is a video on Ceramic Arts Daily of John Britt demonstrating a line blend; and another video in which he demonstrates a triaxial of three different stains. Line blends can be done with any two materials, whether they be a glaze and silica, or two glazes, or a glaze with two different colorants, etc. There's no limit to what you can test. The idea is that you get a gradation from one material to the other. One end will be a 90%-10% mix, followed by 80%-20%, then 70%-30%, all the way to 10%-90% on the other end. In the case of adding silica to a glaze as you described, it's not a line blend. You're just adding silica in increments. To increase the melt of a glaze, you need to increase the fluxes. Basically, alumina is the stabilizer and silica is the glass, but the fluxes are what bring the silica and alumina down to the melting point at which we fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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