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Trying To Glaze Low Fire, Hunter Green Breaks To Dark Brown


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#1 G M

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 11:44 PM

I'm new to ceramics and this forum.  Wanted handmade tile for my fireplace surround.  I built the built in bookcases, mantle, copper/mica lights, seemed to make sense to try making the tile too.   Did some research in the library and online, seemed like it would not be too expensive to try using a low fire white grogged clay body for the tile from a local ceramic supply shop.  Much tougher than everyone makes it look! :)  Looking for some help on getting the glaze right.

 

Aiming for something like Motawi's Lee Green.  I looked at their site online, and they are using an off white clay body.  I am using white, so maybe that would make a bit of difference.  Asked at the ceramics shop, they have been very helpful up to this point but getting the color I am looking for, they are stumped as I am.  Uploaded several pictures of the various colors and combinations I have tried to a gallery called green glazes, not sure how to point to them from here. 

 

If anyone has any pointers on how to get to this color I would be very grateful.  Already bisqued all of the tile for the fireplace surround, but if I need to go to a high fire glaze and clay body to get there I'm OK with that, I'll get some high fire clay and new glazes.  Or if I need to mix my own glaze I'm game for that too. Been fun to this point and wouldn't mind making another 15 sq ft. of tile or mixing up some glaze as I have several sq. ft. of bisques tile to test on.  Love to learn and have learned a lot making and drying different thicknesses of tile (thicker seems more consistent!).  Also made several plaster molds and made a couple of each of the relief tiles from the mold to test when I get the glaze close.  However, I don't feel like I'm close.  All of the glazes I have tried have a background that is either too yellow or too black. 

 

If you look at my Green Glazes gallery, my favorite glazes are 3 coats  of Mayco Spanish Moss (but it has flaws where the white tile shows through), 2 coats of a combination of half and half Duncan Marbled Celadon and Desert Pine (background a little yellow), and 1 coat of Mayco Malachite, which is incredible in the light but looks black when not strongly lighted.

 

Thanks for any suggestions!

Grant

 

 

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#2 williamt

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 10:53 AM

Hi,
Looks like your having some fun!
You might want to try an off white, buff, and brown low fire clay with the glaze you like. This might get you where you want to be.
It looks like on the thumbnail picture I can see in your post, that the clay is either a dark buff or brown.

Clay color almost always affects the final color presentation of the glaze.
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Lee Tucker
Black Kitty Pottery
http://www.blackkittypottery.com

#3 Diane Puckett

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 12:05 PM

If you are willing to go to cone 6, check out the Coyote Glaze greens, particularly green shino. They have a couple others that look close. It is difficult to know unless you fire them on a particular clay. If you happen to have the equipment, spraying would eliminate brush strokes.

Another option would be using underglazes to get the color you want and then adding a clear satin glaze. Some clear glazes will change the color of green underglaze, so you would need to make sure to get one that does not.
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Diane Puckett
Dry Ridge Pottery

#4 G M

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 01:36 PM

Thanks for the suggestions!  I'll try some mid fire darker clay bodies and the Coyote glaze line.  Also will try some underglazes and see how that method turns out.  Great ideas!  Thanks again,

 

Grant






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