Babs Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 About to start a project for a friend. I have been asked to make an open book out of clay.Then add text to it. Silly me I know. Any way I made a trial book out of clay, I wasn't that happy with it as between the interior supporting struts of the open pages the clay slumped slightly. It also had a crack running a short distance up the spine where I belatedly pushed a tool into it to made a more realistic spine! My question is: Will paper clay be less likely to warp beween the interior supports? Will it handle being of a thinner construction? Can't post a pic as the trial piece was snapped up by another friend for her garden, cracked bottom stuck firmly into the ground. Will I never learn to be tough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campbell Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Paper clay is tougher in the wet and green stages, but once the paper burns out, you just have the clay with more air holes. The good news is that you will have much more flexibility and forgiveness while you are doing the building ... also, you can easily repair any cracks or add more clay to any section with paper clay as you go through the process. And yes, as a person who loves thin work I can tell you that you can roll paper clay as thin as you can ( well, paper thin ) and it will fire just fine. Tip for next time ... make at least two of them at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Thanks Chris. And what! Have 2 failures at once?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudslinger Ceramics Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Hi Babs What is your clay? I use paperclay often and the porcelains do flex a little at top temp. if very thin (upright cylinder shapes less) more than e/w or s/w. The internal struts need only be a little wider than the 'page' sheet on top and since it's not a functional product underfire by 20C. I do this with porcelain when I need flat, flat surface and translucency isn't essential but strength is. Let's see a photo when it's done. Irene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Hi Babs What is your clay? I use paperclay often and the porcelains do flex a little at top temp. if very thin (upright cylinder shapes less) more than e/w or s/w. The internal struts need only be a little wider than the 'page' sheet on top and since it's not a functional product underfire by 20C. I do this with porcelain when I need flat, flat surface and translucency isn't essential but strength is. Let's see a photo when it's done. Irene thanks Irene, can't get your description of the struts placings. My clay is a Walkers Midfire papaer clay. I am making a hollow double box shape with the top,open pages, rising from the spine and then flat out to the edges of the book On the first trial, I placed the struts at right angles to the book spine and had slight ripples down the page after firing. I was thinking of placing them parallel to the spine this time, is that what you would do? The pages are A4 before firing ,how many struts would you use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudslinger Ceramics Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Hi Babs sorry, yes,..... longitudinal struts running parallel to the spine, I'd use 4 struts spine to page edge, decending height for 3 spine to before very edge strut then 5mm increase for last one for the 'flicked up' curl that happens with book pages (or not, if you prefer page edges to lie in decending height from spine to edge) Irene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.