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Falls Creek Shino

Randys oatmeal rust

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#1 Biglou13

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 08:34 PM

Ok here's my go at it.
The clay body is porcelaineous, appears that it fit. ... Broke,at bottom not a lot of texture on cup. I lowered the Li a bit to 5

I expected more rust and less oatmeal....?

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#2 Pres

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 09:39 PM

You may try double dipping with a thinner glaze consistency. Sometimes I find that adds more variation in surface. I notice you also dip your pots with your finger tips holding it upside down. ;)


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#3 Biglou13

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 07:09 AM

Since I'm double dipping, should I thin glaze or just put on thicker coat. I first pour glaze into cup, the pour out and dip. So the interior and lip often get a slightly thicker coating . In this case still little to no rust.

Yes I like the japanese technique of dipping and leaving finger marks. And many who have drank from my cups are warming to idea also. I like to see and feel the clay. It s part of the whole and feel like some is lost covered by glaze.

I'm not a big fan of waxing

I'll try thicker application today,
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#4 cracked pot

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 10:22 AM

My Fall's Creek Shino is ^6 and looks quite different depending on the clay body and thickness of application.  I mostly brush on my glazes but do thin them when I am dipping.

 

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#5 Biglou13

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 11:47 AM

I'll check my recipe
Mine looks like too much opacfiers
It's also on finicky porcelain
Would the drop in Li Change things that much
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#6 bciskepottery

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 06:33 PM

You seem to get more variation in color on the bottom portion by your fingers. When you dip an item, the first part in gets a thicker coat of glaze because it is submerged longer than the last part.

#7 cracked pot

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 06:34 PM

Wish I could help but I don't know much about the chemistry.  I'm pretty new to mixing glazes and just follow the recipes.



#8 Babs

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 02:50 AM

I think it is the glaze thickness, rust where thin, oatmeal where the applicaation is thicker. Sacralige, spelling doesn't look right,  to suggest glazing tongs, in out fast?? Thin the glaze? dampen the pot?



#9 Biglou13

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 05:17 AM

Ty back to more testing
1. Brushing
2. Thin glaze , dip
3. Thicker application
4. Wax and dip
5. Dampen pot.

Ps I even adjusted this glaze to 1.5 specific gravity, followed by finger an slotted spoon test.
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#10 deborah.

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 06:33 PM

I know the falls creek shino really, really well. It's one of the favorite glazes my studio works with, and I've used it myself hundreds of times. It's the clay body that (mainly) causes the color change. It's always creamy/oatmeally on white clays. On anything darker, it's great. The first picture is using a really dark clay (Standard's 266), the second is using a porcelain with a dark slip decoration, and the last is Standard's Hazelnut clay (312, I think) with a green glaze over the top. All the pieces have the same thickness of glaze. On the darker clays, a thicker application can lighten up the glaze, but it always is creamy on the white clays no matter how thin of a coat you apply.

 

Hope this helped some,

Deborah

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#11 Biglou13

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 06:53 PM

Deb
Beautiful examples. Thanks for the pictures and informative post!
From you and other posts it seems thin application is in.

I'm at approx 1.4 on hydrometer reading

Pic # 2. Is that a dark slip decoration ( horizontal lines), applied while leather hard, bisqued then fcs glazed? What is dark slip formula formula? I have a slip that is clay body slip (helios) with black mason and a clay body slip with manganese I will experiment with......

#3 I'm assuming there is a lot of texture in piece.? Secondly it appears to play well with other glazes?

#1. I love 266. But all the health warning posts make me afraid to buy more of it. :(
Caution big brother is watching.
The beige is blinding!!!!!!
The middle of the road is boring

The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination.
-Albert Einstein

#12 deborah.

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 07:11 PM

Deb
Beautiful examples. Thanks for the pictures and informative post!

Pic # 2. Is that a dark slip decoration ( horizontal lines), applied while leather hard, bisqued then fcs glazed? What is dark slip formula formula? I have a slip that is clay body slip (helios) with black mason and a clay body slip with manganese I will experiment with......

#3 I'm assuming there is a lot of texture in piece.? Secondly it appears to play well with other glazes?

#1. I love 266. But all the health warning posts make me afraid to buy more of it. :(

 

#2: Exactly. I'm pretty sure it's 266 in slip form but I may be forgetting the exact clay

 

#3 It loves texture! It breaks on anything (lettering, throwing lines) but it sometimes has to be more of a severe texture like the mug to get it to break with two glazes, depending on the combination (test!). And yes, it plays well with almost all of our glazes except for the really funky ones that don't like to play well with others.

 

#1 I only use 266 on rare occasions. I don't worry much about it wet but am super cautious doing anything that might create dust with it.



#13 Biglou13

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Posted 22 April 2014 - 08:06 PM

Eureka!!!!!
My falls creek shino is beautiful!!!
Big thanks to Deborah.
You will have to wait for the pictures tomorrow daylight hours.
Caution big brother is watching.
The beige is blinding!!!!!!
The middle of the road is boring

The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination.
-Albert Einstein

#14 Babs

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Posted 22 April 2014 - 08:23 PM

I haven't any pics here but I get a great warm toast colour on a white clay body and a thin dipped application, I'll hunt for a pic.

Not imperative to use a Mn. containing body.

What is your rewcipe for this shino?



#15 JBaymore

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Posted 22 April 2014 - 08:43 PM

#1. I love 266. But all the health warning posts make me afraid to buy more of it. :(

 

Good studio practices and an AWARENESS of the potential issue will go a long way to mitigating the potential hazards. If you are careful with it, shouldn't be a big issue unless you are going thru tons of it.

 

A huge portion of the H+S issues in the ceramics (and other art media) field come from a lack of awareness that there IS any issue. Somehow a lot of people just asssume that because they are ART materials... they must be safe.

 

The first step is education. It is what you DON'T know that usually bites you in the butt. ;)

 

best,

 

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#16 Roberta12

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:52 PM

Deborah, have you had any problems with FCS shivering??   How much lithium carb does your recipe call for?  Nice pieces, btw!!

 

Roberta



#17 Biglou13

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 08:58 PM

I lowered my Li carb. From 6.5. To 5 %
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#18 Roberta12

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Posted 24 April 2014 - 09:36 AM

Yes, Big Lou, when I am able to start mixing glazes again, I am going to try the reduced lith carb fcs.   Did you get any pictures of your pieces???

 

Roberta



#19 Biglou13

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Posted 24 April 2014 - 10:51 PM

Sorry not yet ill post a bunch tomorrow
There a was another post about upping silica also .
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#20 Biglou13

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 10:05 AM

Latest
Falls creek shino
Aka. Randy's oatmeal rust

266 slip under fcs (BIG thanks to Deborah), the others just fcs with different thickness. Unless there is texture or dark clay under glaze. Thinne application is better. I just thinned the bucket of glaze.

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Caution big brother is watching.
The beige is blinding!!!!!!
The middle of the road is boring

The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination.
-Albert Einstein




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