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Different Ways To Sign Pots


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#21 Stellaria

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 07:41 PM

I made a wooden stamp by carving with a dremel, and use that somewhere on my pieces. It's a celtic spiral design that resembles a raven. It's big, though, and tends to deform my work if I'm not careful, so I need to figure out how to make a smaller one. I'll probably carve one from clay, even though carving clay tends to piss me off.

I don't like to sign my pots. I'm not entirely sure why. I always get the feeling I'm "doing it wrong" which is really stupid, I know. Writing my name on the bottom feels weird, and I think my signature looks too plain anyway. So far, the only pieces that get marked consistently are mugs, because I stamp into the fishtail join on the handle...which, incidentally, looks pretty dang cool.



#22 Rebekah Krieger

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 11:28 PM

For high end work...... this etching and inlaying slip and such samnus mentions is the kind of stuff that adds that "little extra" pizazz.  WELL worth the little extra time and fussing.

 

 

For some of the higher end pieces I make, I sometimes also use painted overglaze enamel or burnish gold luster. Has to "fit" the nature of the piece.   I use JBaymore in script almost all the time for this kind of thing.

 

For a lot of stuff, I sign my name in the leatherhard clay with a DULL pencil, or a ball point pen.  Prominent and readable.  Sharp points like needle tools tend to leave a "harsh" quality to the mark after work is fired.

 

On some pieces I use a stone hanko (stamp) that I carved in Mashiko, Japan in 1996 (over a lot of sake ;) with a potter friend).  It is a stylized JB.  I press it into the clay or into a small wet wad of clay.

 

For my Chadogu (formal teawares) it varies by the type of piece.  Chawan and mizusashi and things like kogo and furo and serving pieces usually get JBaymore in the leatherhard clay outside the footring (never inside). Chaire (being very small) often get a stamped JB or an overglaze or gold one usually on the lower sidewall near the foot. Chadogu almost always also get a signed (in black ink)  wooden box, with my ceramic hanko, my legal signature hanko (last name in Kanji) and the kiln name hanko in red ink.  They also get a yellow-orange wrapping cloth for the piece with the same three hanko in red.

 

best,

 

..................john

 

PS:  At the 2014 NCECA fund raising cup sale I donated a Chawan (with box, etc.).  I set it at 1/2 of my usual price.  Everything sold....... so .......did anyone here happen to get that piece?  Curious.  BTW... the cup sale raised almost $25,000 for scholarships in only a few hours of actual sales. NICE!

I was very close to buying your bowl. IT was gorgeous!  I came back mid sale and noticed that my cup was still there so I vowed not to go back in case i would see my cup as the last remaining oneā€¦ that was my biggest fear.  


Learning On my Kick wheel with my vintage Paragon (from the late 1960's)

#23 alabama

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 03:17 PM

Hey,

      I sign my name and date backwards with a fine needle tool, homemade from a blow gun dart.

On the left of the bottom, I put the cone its fired to and on the right of the bottom I put the pounds needed to make the vessel.

If the vessel is a copy of something colonial, then I put the country and date it would have been used...i.e. Germany 1675 or Belgium 1550

or British 1725..just whatever the archaeological date is.  If the pottery is not a referenced copy then my name and date (backwards), cone, and

pounds are incised on the bottom. After the pottery is  bisqued, the bottom it is stained with a wash of black iron oxide.

 

     On American Indian replicas I just sign my name regular and date on the inside of the vessel sice they aren't glazed..

 

I just wanted to sign differently on two types of pottery.  And this works for me. :>)

See you all later,

Alabama



#24 Nancy S.

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 07:55 PM

I carved a "sigil" that incorporates my initials into a plaster bat, then pressed a bit of clay into that to form a stamp that was bisque fired. The past few years I've used a date (also a bisqued stamp that I made from carved plaster), but obviously that necessitates a new date stamp every year, so I'm pondering that a lot lately. I don't sell a lot; most of what I make is for me and my family. :) And they don't really care when it was made anyway!

 

I like using the stamp, because it makes for a clean, incised line that is also consistent. I started out hand-carving the sigil, but sometimes it didn't come out right, sometimes it was too deep or too shallow, etc.






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