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Wedging Table Surface Options


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#21 lecira

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 12:44 PM

I use #10 cotton untreated canvas duck. It shrinks nicely. Yes, nicely. 

 

Staple it under the table top edge/board. Don't worry about "how tight." 

 

Then, just get some hot water and sponge it to soak the canvas.

 

It shrinks up like blue jeans... and does not loosen with use.

 

Here' a photo of my wedging table. I also have two large work tables also covered with cotton duck.

 

It lasts for years, and mine seem to stay tight forever...

 

Luck!

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#22 Kristin_Gail

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 02:36 PM

I use a slab of slate - given to me by a fella who used to make pool tables. Works great so far!

#23 Benzine

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 06:30 PM

Lena, those are some great jars.
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#24 clay lover

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 08:20 AM

I am thinking the same thing.



#25 CecRR

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 02:28 PM

I just bought a stretched canvas frame from walmart, then went to me local lumber co. and had they cut some wood squares to fill in the back. Works like a charm :)



#26 Darcy Kane

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 08:08 PM

My husband made me a plaster wedging table.  It has 4x4 legs and framing lumber for sides and deck.  He also reinforced the 5 in plaster slab with rebar and wire.  When I am reclaiming clay I cover the plaster slab with old sheets that are cut to be 6" bigger than the slab all the way around.  It allows the water to be pulled out of the clay but also lets me put another piece of sheet on the top when I want to flip the clay over to dry out the other side.  It works slick!  I can rinse out the sheets in-between reclaims if necessary but usually the clay just peels right off the fabric.  

 

Sometimes I wedge on the plaster wedging table, but usually I use a counter top or wood.  



#27 Stellaria

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 11:48 PM

Our arts center studio has a wedging table like John described - canvas-covered plaster slab poured into a wooden frame on legs. It has a shelf built under the table top to stabilize the legs.

What I'd like to know is, when determining what your wedging surface should be made of, what is your prime consideration? Water absorbency? Durability? Clay release? Sturdiness? And if you were to build your ideal, what would you do differently from what you have now?

#28 grype

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 03:16 PM

I have only been doing pottery for a few months, but I use the same method as many people above. I have a 2x2 particle board that I covered in canvas wet and stapled down. I put it on top of a steady workbench or sturdy table and wedge away. I dont have a ton of room, so when I am doing other things I can just move the wedging board off the table and gain back my table space. I am sure it isn't as nice as the plaster wedging tables, but if your on a budget and need room, it does the trick just fine. Eventually I plan to move into the garage and get a nice 2x2 plaster one setup.


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#29 dhPotter

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 03:57 PM

Hello Folks.  This forum is great. 

 

Not been doing pottery but a few months.

I use the Hardi-board someone else mentioned.  My wedging table is secured to the wall.  The surface slopes away from me at about 15 degrees.  Makes it easy on the wrists and you can really get your weight behind wedging.



#30 Mark C.

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 05:16 PM

I use casting plaster 4 inches thick . I made two in 1971 and they are perfect to this day and get used almost every day.They are on solid thick wood supports. I store 1,000#s of studio use clay under them.

 

Mark


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#31 Amy Eberhardt

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Posted 29 March 2015 - 10:28 PM

I know I'm dredging up an old topic here, but please, forgive me.......

 

Since last October, I've been slowly but surely, putting together my wedging table.  [a little too slowly to please me, but hey, that's life]

 

I purchased an old Army/Navy surplus table at auction [I so love auctions!] for a paltry $5. It is all steel with a Formica top. To that, I attached 1" x 3" boards around the rim to create the forms for pouring the plaster in. I also caulked all the way around the inside of this form and up the corners. No leaks! Yay!

 

In light of everything that goes on around here on a daily basis, is it any wonder that I'm still in the pouring stage of construction? Sheesh! And I thought it took forever to build the house!?!?!? Anyhow, so far, I'm up to about 150 pounds of plaster and still not there. I have another 50 pounds standing by, just waiting for me to have the time to mix it up and pour it.

 

Once this phase is done, I have a nice piece of duck canvas ready and waiting to be stretched and secured. Thanks for the pointer of wetting it first. Silly me, I never would have thought of that!

 

The total size of the table is 30" x 48" and will serve both as a wedging table and a work surface for me to dive into hand building as well.

 

I do have a question or two regarding my process thus far. I hope one of you good people can give me a little input on it......

 

I poured another batch of plaster today and sprayed it down with rubbing alcohol to release the surface tension of the plaster, thereby negating the bubbles trapped within. About an hour later, I noticed not only a few popped bubbles, but that they are also connecting to each other with small cracks. Through 150+ pounds, this has never happened. Should I be concerned? As I said, I still have at least another 50 pounds to go, maybe even more. [I suck at estimating quantities for a project like this. :unsure: ]

 

I had spoken to a rep from DAP back in October and he stated that for my purposes, there shouldn't be a need for any form of rebar in the slab, so long as I poured it in stages and let each batch cure thoroughly. Now I'm beginning to wonder.

 

From a weight standpoint, this is one heavy bugger of a wedging table. Even now, I have a hard time getting it to budge so much as a fraction of an inch. I have used it with a small piece of plywood over it just to wedge up some clay for wheel projects and so far, things seem to be just spiffy. I guess what I'm hoping to hear is that it will be just fine, hairline cracks not withstanding.  Your thoughts????



#32 Benzine

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Posted 30 March 2015 - 07:05 AM

In terms of reinforcement, even small wedging boards, I've encountered, had a wire mesh inside for added strength. Much of it, looks to be "hardware cloth".

I would think adding some of that, if still possible at this point, wouldn't hurt.
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#33 Biglou13

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Posted 30 March 2015 - 08:18 AM

my new favorite surface

 

http://www.lowes.com...oductId=1005411


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#34 elaine clapper

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Posted 30 March 2015 - 09:15 AM

I use a large piece of sand stone. It sits on a  sturdy table of 4 x 6 lumber on two saw horses also made with 4x6 lumber.  Our builder had made this from lumber scrap for a work table when we were building our house.  He was going to burn it until I asked to keep it. The type of sandstone I have is generally used for fireplace hearths. In college we had marble wedging tables. Since I was not in the marble price range I just went to a stone cutting company, told them how I was going to use the stone, asked for a scrap piece of unpolished stone.  I think I paid $5.00. It works great, cleans easily, after 20 years not a single mark on the surface.






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