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Wedging Table Surface Options

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#21 lecira



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Posted 23 January 2014 - 12:44 PM

I use #10 cotton untreated canvas duck. It shrinks nicely. Yes, nicely. 


Staple it under the table top edge/board. Don't worry about "how tight." 


Then, just get some hot water and sponge it to soak the canvas.


It shrinks up like blue jeans... and does not loosen with use.


Here' a photo of my wedging table. I also have two large work tables also covered with cotton duck.


It lasts for years, and mine seem to stay tight forever...




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#22 Kristin_Gail


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Posted 23 January 2014 - 02:36 PM

I use a slab of slate - given to me by a fella who used to make pool tables. Works great so far!

#23 Benzine


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Posted 23 January 2014 - 06:30 PM

Lena, those are some great jars.
"Anything worth believing, is worth questioning"

#24 clay lover

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 08:20 AM

I am thinking the same thing.

#25 CecRR



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Posted 20 March 2014 - 02:28 PM

I just bought a stretched canvas frame from walmart, then went to me local lumber co. and had they cut some wood squares to fill in the back. Works like a charm :)

#26 Darcy Kane

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 08:08 PM

My husband made me a plaster wedging table.  It has 4x4 legs and framing lumber for sides and deck.  He also reinforced the 5 in plaster slab with rebar and wire.  When I am reclaiming clay I cover the plaster slab with old sheets that are cut to be 6" bigger than the slab all the way around.  It allows the water to be pulled out of the clay but also lets me put another piece of sheet on the top when I want to flip the clay over to dry out the other side.  It works slick!  I can rinse out the sheets in-between reclaims if necessary but usually the clay just peels right off the fabric.  


Sometimes I wedge on the plaster wedging table, but usually I use a counter top or wood.  

#27 Stellaria


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Posted 23 March 2014 - 11:48 PM

Our arts center studio has a wedging table like John described - canvas-covered plaster slab poured into a wooden frame on legs. It has a shelf built under the table top to stabilize the legs.

What I'd like to know is, when determining what your wedging surface should be made of, what is your prime consideration? Water absorbency? Durability? Clay release? Sturdiness? And if you were to build your ideal, what would you do differently from what you have now?

#28 grype


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Posted 05 June 2014 - 03:16 PM

I have only been doing pottery for a few months, but I use the same method as many people above. I have a 2x2 particle board that I covered in canvas wet and stapled down. I put it on top of a steady workbench or sturdy table and wedge away. I dont have a ton of room, so when I am doing other things I can just move the wedging board off the table and gain back my table space. I am sure it isn't as nice as the plaster wedging tables, but if your on a budget and need room, it does the trick just fine. Eventually I plan to move into the garage and get a nice 2x2 plaster one setup.

#29 dhPotter


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Posted 05 June 2014 - 03:57 PM

Hello Folks.  This forum is great. 


Not been doing pottery but a few months.

I use the Hardi-board someone else mentioned.  My wedging table is secured to the wall.  The surface slopes away from me at about 15 degrees.  Makes it easy on the wrists and you can really get your weight behind wedging.

#30 Mark C.

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 05:16 PM

I use casting plaster 4 inches thick . I made two in 1971 and they are perfect to this day and get used almost every day.They are on solid thick wood supports. I store 1,000#s of studio use clay under them.



Mark Cortright

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