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Foil Saggar Results


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Ken Turner did the foil saggar section at the PC conference in Mn.Just as Sumi did the pit fire and Billy Ray did raku sculpture.

I just made a dvd on obvara, raku,horse hair and ceramic saggar for teachers.

I usually fire alone without anyone around.

Maybe something can be arranged. It is simple but uses some nasty chemical. I only have one vapor respirator.

This process requires nitric gloves and vapor respirator as safety gear.

 

Marcia

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Here are pictures of my chemically treated bisqued pots that were post fired with only a propane torch. Though I am first to admit they are not anywhere near Marcia's'.

 

They were treated with ferric chloride ( made by reacting clean steel wool with muriatic acid and evaporating til concentrated) and copper citrate ( made by reacting copper carbonate with citric acid.).  The copper citrate has the advantage of not soaking in to the clay so much as copper sulphate. It gives a pretty green cast rather than just grey or black.

 

Oh yeah.. I also am trying horse hair. with mixed results.  Anyone know the sectet of how to keep it from rolling up into a single ball?

 

Saggar... what saggar?... I don't need no stinking saggar!

 

P.S Norm. Have you tried iorn oxalate... I have been thinking that might help the Fe stay on the surface so that you would not need so much to get a deep red.

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Nice work!. Thanks. There are quite a few foil saggar people around. Ken Turner did a great workshop at the PC conference in Minn. And Marc McMillan has shared several pieces recently in the members gallery. It is an interesting process involving some nasty chemicals.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Marcia

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Here are pictures of my chemically treated bisqued pots that were post fired with only a propane torch. Though I am first to admit they are not anywhere near Marcia's'.

 

They were treated with ferric chloride ( made by reacting clean steel wool with muriatic acid and evaporating til concentrated) and copper citrate ( made by reacting copper carbonate with citric acid.).  The copper citrate has the advantage of not soaking in to the clay so much as copper sulphate. It gives a pretty green cast rather than just grey or black.

 

Oh yeah.. I also am trying horse hair. with mixed results.  Anyone know the sectet of how to keep it from rolling up into a single ball?

 

Saggar... what saggar?... I don't need no stinking saggar!

 

P.S Norm. Have you tried iorn oxalate... I have been thinking that might help the Fe stay on the surface so that you would not need so much to get a deep red.

 

 

Those are interesting. I used a torch on iron sulphate on some architectural pieces. It responds well to a torch. Are the others sulphates too?

I used a torch to alter color of iron sulphate wash on terra cotta sculpture. It was really interesting. I did it outside for fresh air access.

Marcia

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ditto on the precautions. I wear a respirator whenever I am within 20' of the kiln.

I've also taken to wearing full goggles and tyvec suite when I apply the ferric. Little droplets seem to get everywhere. I figure getting that stuff in the eyes should be avoided. ;)

I am not spraying these, I am applying with a sponge or sponge brush and working as neatly as possible. Still there are some stains on the formica.

Good Idea about the goggles.

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Those are interesting. I used a torch on iron sulphate on some architectural pieces. It responds well to a torch. Are the others sulphates too?

  Marcia

 

Citric, tartaric, and oxalic acids are all some of the things I have used to dissolve copper carb to get the weak acid salt. As Norm mentioned, these are thicker, les soluble,  solutions and hence tend to stay on the surface of a bisqued pot. so not as much is needed. I'd say it takes only about 1/3 the amount to get a good rich black compared with what I get using just copper sulfate. The copper citrate puts so much copper on the surface that You can actually see it flash to copper with the reducing flame of the torch. Sadly, it oxidizes again immediately

 

I have used ferric ammonium chloride instead of straight ferric chloride, and it seems to give a weaker color. Nom's  iron phosphate looks like the way to go

 

I wonder could any of this stuff we have been talking about be used in conjunction with the Obvara technique you have perfected. If you could maybe spritz the pot with copper citrate and then Obvara it and get it into reduction it might be pretty interesting.

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Interesting info Bob. Where does one begin to look for citric, tartaric and oxalic acids?

I have been avoiding spritzing but these chemicals may not be as hazardous. 

I wouldn't say I have perfected Obvara but it is fascinating. I can try something with it in January. I will be away during the holidays visiting family. and friends.

I'll let you know what happens.

Marcia

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Citric acid you can buy in many markets or health food stores. Tartaric acid is a little harder but chemical supply houses have it and probably e-bay.

Oxalic acid you get at Home Depot. It is the only one that is toxic...  but , since you are not going to eat it, and since it just burns up when flamed with no toxic fumes, there is no problem. 

 

Anyway keep it in mind next time you do your magic...  Have fun on the holidays :)

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Citric acid you can buy in many markets or health food stores. Tartaric acid is a little harder but chemical supply houses have it and probably e-bay.

Oxalic acid you get at Home Depot. It is the only one that is toxic...  but , since you are not going to eat it, and since it just burns up when flamed with no toxic fumes, there is no problem. 

 

Anyway keep it in mind next time you do your magic...  Have fun on the holidays :)

Thanks, Bob. I'll look in the grocery stores. I have citrus skins that also do some things but not all that interesting yet. I need to understand what to do with them.

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