Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
elcimen

Shimpo Rk-3E Without Bat Pin Holes - Please Help Me

Recommended Posts

Hello to all  :)

 

I bought a wheel Potter Shimpo RK-3E.  O Wheelhead não tem  bat pin holes

Attached photo of the Wheel

Is there any model for this type of bat Wheelhead?

Can you help me telling where I can buy?

Please send me a link where I can buy.

I'll be happy if you help me

 

Thank you

 

Maria Correia

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Clay balls...bat done

Bat mate or like product

Non slip shelf liner + bat

 

See another thread about drilling.

I decided not to drill. I rarely ever use a proper bat now anyway.

 

Ps no photo attached

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Clay balls...bat done

Bat mate or like product

Non slip shelf liner + bat

 

See another thread about drilling.

I decided not to drill. I rarely ever use a proper bat now anyway.

 

Ps no photo attached

Hi
Thanks for the kindness. Sorry. The photo attached in this post I published today
How do you make a non-slip shelf? What bat do you use?
Could you help me?
I'll be happy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would just drill some holes for bat pins and add them in. You'll need a decent set of metal drill bits, and you can just use a basic "Socket Cap Screw" for the pins. I just did that to several of my classroom wheels.

 

There is a whole topic here on In the Studio detailing the steps. The main thing is, before drilling the holes, measure, measure, measure.

 

After that, you have a wide choice of bats. I went with some Speedball bats, because they are cheaper than plastibats. Though I will say, the surface of the Speedball bats seem a bit uneven.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it seems that the work you make is part of the decision to use bats or not.  i have always used bats with pins.  mostly because i return the pot to the wheel several times, during its creation and trimming immediately after throwing,  while slip is added and any decoration inside is done.   then after it pops off the masonite bat without the use of a cutting wire, i put it on the giffin grip for the final outer slip decoration.  all these things need accurate centering of the pot which i have never been able to do by putting the bat on a ring of damp clay.

 

i know there are very skilled potters who can center easily and take care of all these operations accurately but i am not one of them.  

 

so, it is really up to you whether you put pins in the wheelhead.  a machine shop can help if there is one nearby.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very well put Oldlady.

 

The reason I added the pins to my classroom wheels, are time and efficiency.

In the past, we would just throw directly on the wheel head. So we'd have to let them dry before removing them, limiting wheel usage. Trying to teach the students how to attach a bat with clay wads, or a clay disc, is an extra step that would take precious time. Using bats that attach with puns, is quick and easy. A student can start, and if they don' t finish, they pull the bat, the wheel is open for someone else, and they can pick back up, when they are ready.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Drill it ! Super easy:

Center a bat with holes on the head.

Just make sure the holes are over a prt of the head that does not have the thicker support trusses.

Drill holes using the bat as guide. Heads are soft: no special bit needed.

Start with smaller bit and step it up until the pins fit snuggly.

Bat pins with wing nuts are at ceramic supply place for about $3 /pair.

 

This is soooo easy.

(Not sure why folks make it more complicated than it is.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1/4 inch hole, for 1/4-20 socket cap screw. Center up a bat, trace the holes. Then use a center punch or awl to make a mark at the center of the hole. This mark should be deep enough that the tip of the drill bit will anchor into it, to keep the drill bit from drifting when you start to drill. It doesn't take much. The wheel head is aluminum, so it will mark and drill easily. As a previous post said, make sure you're not drilling where there is a supporting rub on the underside of the head. Holes should be 10" apart on center.

 

I never take my bat pins off. No reason to. I always leave a bat on the wheel, even if I'm cutting small pots off. On my old wheel that I had to drill for pins, I threaded the holes so I didn't have to put wing nuts on the back side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.