Jump to content


Photo

Setters For Bone Chine, How To Prevent Warping And Glazing It


  • Please log in to reply
2 replies to this topic

#1 nutellaisdivine

nutellaisdivine

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 09 September 2013 - 03:47 PM

Hi there

 

I am trying to make some very small vases that are slip-casted bone china.

 

I am a newbie at bone china and am worried about the issue of warping and glazing.

 

I bought some Alumina Hydrate and I intend to make a mound of it on the kiln shelf and then to situate the vases, rim down, on it, a little buried. I will also experiment and fill the vase with alumina hydrate rather that placing it on the shelf. I also bought silver sand because I heard of someone that buries her pieces in silver sand in a container when firing so they don't warp. I will also try filling a vase with silver sand like with the alumina hydrate, although I think the heaviness of the sand with apply pressure on the vase and break it.. but I'll try it anyway.

 

I would like to make setters for these vases as well, in case there is no alternative. I never made setters before - could someone please explain to me how I can make one. Does the setter need to be made by bone china as well or a different material? If the setter is made of bone china, does it need to be at the same body type as the vase? like unfired setter put into high fire bisque with unfired vase on it? Or does it need to be bisque fired prior to bisque firing the vase? And how would I go about making a setter to fit a lip of a far vase?

 

  

I also have a few questions about glazing bone china - I have a botz brush-on crackle glaze high-fire up to 1280C. Could I apply that onto unfired bone china body for the first high-firing bisque? 

 

I also have a botz brush-on crackle glaze low-fire 1020C-1060C. Can I apply that on a bone china bisqued body and then fire again at 1020-1060?

 

What would be the best way to glaze bone china? I was told to warm up the body before applied glaze to bisqued body. Are there any other tips?

 

Thank so much!!  :D



#2 PeterH

PeterH

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 150 posts

Posted 10 September 2013 - 06:34 AM

As you aren't getting any answers yet, I'll point out that Slipcasting by Sasha Wardell contains a 15-page

chapter of notes on the special problems associated with bone china. http://tinyurl.com/onfz7mb

 

prices in $ shipped to USA http://tinyurl.com/ngxgxgh

prices in £ shipped to UK http://tinyurl.com/ouvobo8

 

Regards, Peter



#3 Chris Campbell

Chris Campbell

    clay stained since 1988

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,958 posts
  • LocationRaleigh, NC

Posted 10 September 2013 - 10:05 AM

Using the same clay body won't work, it will warp as much as any other shape.
I use a higher firing clay body ... Cone 10 - 12 ... to make mine and they stand up quite well.
You can glaze the inside during high firing, then glaze the outside at a lower temperature. Warming the fully fired pots helps the glaze stick to it so you can successfully low fire it on.

Chris Campbell
Contemporary Fine Colored Porcelain
www.ccpottery.com

TRY ...   FAIL ...  LEARN ...  REPEAT





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users