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Really, Really Basic Question

Soda Ash

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#21 smastca

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 05:58 PM

So, if I understand this, all of the rock hard bags of soda ash sitting on our shelves, I could pop back in the oven (smashing first with large hammer  :wacko: ) and re-constitute it?  Probably wrong word but you know what I mean........



#22 jrgpots

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 06:18 PM

After getting it ground back to a powder, you could bake it at 350 degrees for 1 hour or until offgassing stops.  It would be Sodium carbonate again... yes.

 

Jed



#23 bciskepottery

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 07:33 PM

I believe there are several books that list common, house-hold alternatives/substitutes for glaze chemicals.  I've also noticed many terra sig recipes that call for the use of Calgon . . . although I suspect those were developed before the recent changes to Calgon. 



#24 PeterH

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 07:48 AM

This paper on the chemistry of the reddish markings on some traditional Japanese pottery

may be of interest to a few readers of this thread, as it relates to the use of alkali metals to

colour a clay body.

http://tinyurl.com/qzxgwn5

 

Regards, Peter

 

BTW potassium chloride forms the basis of many lo-sodium salt substitutes.



#25 Chris Campbell

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Posted 03 September 2013 - 07:34 PM

Thank you all ... Testing will begin soon with hopefully excellent results.

Chris Campbell
Contemporary Fine Colored Porcelain
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TRY ...   FAIL ...  LEARN ...  REPEAT


#26 PeterH

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 06:26 AM

Chris,

 

You might also try adding borax to your mix, hopefully the boron will reduce the temperature

needed to produce effects (if that is a problem for you).

 

 

I attach a couple of entries from an old clayart posting at http://www.potters.o...bject14497.htm/

 

Regards, Peter

 

Peter Atwood on tue 12 jan 99
Got yet another question for you. I recently tried for a soda effect on a small bisqued test pot

by brushing a mixture of soda ash and water onto the pot. I used white stoneware so that I could

really see the final effect and applied the mixture liberally. Then I fired to ^10R.

The result was this: Shiny dark orange flashing on some areas, pale shiny finish on others, and

crusty yellowish barnacle-like blisters on the rest. The inside seemed to have burned away

completely and left nothing but bare clay.

I'd like to achieve a controlled orange flashing effect. Is there something else I could try to get this to

happen? Even if the flashing is sporadic, is there a concoction that will at least be devoid of blisters?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Sharon Pollock-De Luzio on fri 15 jan 99
Try dissolving the soda ash very well with hot water and spray it on the pots. I have used a regular water

bottle sprayer. With trial and error you can learn to control this quite well. WORD OF CAUTION: soda ash

is very caustic. Wear respirator, gloves, eye protection, long sleeves.
 






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