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Fake Horsehair Raku

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#21 Wyndham


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Posted 18 July 2013 - 03:55 PM

This should be a challenge. Everyone pick a path and meet back here at some time or whenever something comes out of the kiln.No right no wrong, maybe uuglee, who knows.

I have acone 6 coming up in a week or so. let you know what gives.


#22 neilestrick


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Posted 18 July 2013 - 04:44 PM


For me, part of the beauty of horse hair pots is the burnished, unglazed surface. I don't think you'll match that with any glaze. I think working with stains on raw clay would be the way to go. I'm betting a talented airbrush artist could make it look nearly identical- deep black lines with the tiniest bit of haze/fuming around them, maybe even some large blushes to mimic low fire fuming.....

What about applying a black underglaze to a wet bisque surface, to create some bleeding?  Would that look similar enough?



Possibly. Definitely worth a try, but I'm thinking it will probably bleed too much or not at all, and be very hard to control which way it goes. I also think brushing will be difficult to get the same solid black line. Trailing with an super fine tip might be more convincing.

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#23 Matt Oz

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Posted 18 July 2013 - 05:43 PM

I think this is the thread you were looking for..........cone 6 horsehair glaze?



Now where are those droids

#24 flowerdry


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Posted 26 July 2015 - 02:20 PM

Pulling an old thread forward because I was brainstorming on doing some feather pots and would like to have some colors too, not just white, and would also like to be able to use them with water.  Saw this thread so now I'm wondering if any of the folks tried the techniques that were discussed and what happened.


I have treated the interior and the bottom of barrel fired pots with tile and grout sealant and when I fill them with water and set them on paper towels they seem to be water tight.  Yet I don't see anyone selling these porous wares as anything but decorative, so I figure there is a reason.


What I want to do is use commercial stains to add some color in various ways to feather and maybe some horsehair pots.  Anybody use any hair other then horsehair and gotten cool results?  Any particular feathers work better than others?  Anybody use commercial stains to good effect?


 What about using low fire clay and firing to bisque, then low fire glaze to the interior, fire that, then do the horse hair/feather process.  Might that work?




I promise to share any cool results I manage to achieve although I don't have high expectations at this point.  I'm still at the brainstorming stage.

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#25 jrgpots


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Posted 26 July 2015 - 04:24 PM

this may sound stupid but there is a potter, mckenzie smith, in florida who covers an area of a raw pot with wax, draws through the wax into the clay and fills the tiny, thin line with black glaze. these lines are hair thin. firing once to remove the wax leaves the pot clean to accept the clear glaze.

could this work for you? wiggly lines could look like horsehair.

Brian Persha use to draw on his pots using that technique back in he 1970. He had a studio in Red Lodge, Montana.
it is a very interesting and precise technique.
on pg 109-110 of Ash Glazes by Robert Tichane, a technique is described to collect rinse water from ash. The soln would contain potassium carbonate, NaCl and trace amounts of potassium phosphate and sulfate.

If a ware were sprayed with a light coat of this solution, then fired to cone 8, it would have a light varnished effect with a slightly glossy surface.

With that in mind, I propose to modify what oldlady and marcia suggested.

1. Spray the outside of bone dry ware with ash rinse solution, as above.
2. Apply wax over the spray.
3. Draw lines, feather design as desired.
4. Apply mason stain, underglaze, or oxides into the etched areas. Wipe off the extra.
5. Glaze the inside of the ware with a food safe liner.
6. Slow single fire to vetrification.

The resulting ware should have varnished surface, black design from the etching, and a food safe interior.

I have not done this before. It might just work.

Any thoughts?


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