Deflocculating an overly flocculated glaze
Posted 12 June 2013 - 09:32 AM
Posted 12 June 2013 - 02:17 PM
I have made Watercolor Green (Watercolor Blue is similar) and mine is water thin, so something may have gone wrong for one of us. I spray my glazes, and mixed mine to the consistency I saw during a Steven Hill workshop, and they work well thin.
I like this video by John Britt discussing flocculation and deflocculation, and some of the things you can try with a small sample to see if you can make it workable:
For comparison, the recipe I use is as follows for 1000 grams (I never mix much at a time):
Ingredient Wt (Grams)
Custer Feldspar 442.4
Lithium Carbonate 36.9
FRIT 3124 46.1
Strontium Carbonate 69.1
Copper Carbonate 73.7
If you divide the numbers above by ten you will have a percentage recipe.
I suspect that there is something in the batching that is causing your problem. Is your spar different than the one above?
I also looked up a recipe for the Wright's Water Blue, and it appears to be frit based, so it would tend to hard pan on the bottom if the Bentonite can't keep it in suspension.
Wright’s Water Blue Glaze
Glaze Material Percentage
Lithium Carbonate 3%
Strontium Carbonate 9
Frit 3110 59
Edgar Plastic Kaolin 12
Add: Bentonite 2%
Copper Carbonate 5%
Posted 12 June 2013 - 03:11 PM
By the way, I spray everything too. I generally like to use glazes as thick as I can get them through the spray gun, because I single-fire and any extra water is hard on the raw pots. I'll keep trying and let you know.
Since you've used Steven Hill's glazes, let me ask you, do you have much experience with Hannah's Fake Blue Ash? I can rarely get it to fire blue. It over-crystalizes and I just get brown or bronze with maybe a little edge of cobalt. I've tried that glaze so many different ways I should have given up by now, but I'm stubborn.
I took Steven's workshop last May in Independence. Sadly, he is not available by email for these questions.
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