Iforgot Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 Hello Potters, I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease. Thank you! Darrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minspargal Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 You need to buy a kiln that fires to cone 10 if you want cone 8 firings. Is your kiln used, perhaps the elements are getting worn out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanassembler Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 Hello Potters, I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease. Thank you! Darrel Darrel, A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln: What brand kiln is it? What is the model #? What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag) Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly? Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iforgot Posted June 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Hello Potters, I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease. Thank you! Darrel Darrel, A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln: What brand kiln is it? What is the model #? What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag) Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly? Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.) My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 240v single phase. I currently do not have a multimeter however I will get one in the next couple of days. Thank you so much for your help! Darrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanassembler Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Hello Potters, I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease. Thank you! Darrel Darrel, A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln: What brand kiln is it? What is the model #? What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag) Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly? Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.) My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 240v single phase. I currently do not have a multimeter however I will get one in the next couple of days. Thank you so much for your help! Darrel http://www.paragonweb.com/files/manuals/LX_809_Duncan_Kiln_Service_Manual.pdf section two addresses testing the elements and the switches--once you have your multimeter you'll be able to do just that. Their instructions show the use of an analog meter, but a digital one will work no differently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iforgot Posted June 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Hello Potters, I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease. Thank you! Darrel Darrel, A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln: What brand kiln is it? What is the model #? What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag) Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly? Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.) My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 240v single phase. I currently do not have a multimeter however I will get one in the next couple of days. Thank you so much for your help! Darrel Also, yes I am putting the cone in the sitter correctly, the sitter works perfectly for bisque firings, just not for ^5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanassembler Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Hello Potters, I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease. Thank you! Darrel Darrel, A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln: What brand kiln is it? What is the model #? What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag) Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly? Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.) My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 240v single phase. I currently do not have a multimeter however I will get one in the next couple of days. Thank you so much for your help! Darrel Also, yes I am putting the cone in the sitter correctly, the sitter works perfectly for bisque firings, just not for ^5. In all likelyhood your elements are going bad--the section i pointed you to gives instructions on how to test them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 On your non bent cones are they the large size ones in cone pads and the sitter has the small cones right? This kiln has 2 1/2 inch walls so its really working at cone 6. The elements as noted need checking. mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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