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#21 Benzine

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 11:03 AM




That is one sanitized area .I knew teaching was a clean but I never thought is was that clean.
Mark


Keep in mind, I haven't use it much yet. You should see the Ceramics area in my classroom. Much more "broke in".

I'm honestly not that clean of a potter. Now my college instructor, he wore nice khakis and a button up/ Polo shirt everyday, and got nothing on him. Of course that's easy to do, when he only needed a thimble of water to throw something.


Famous potters from a bygone era, Nan and Jim McKinnel were the neatest potters I ever met (in both senses of word "neat"). I can still see Nan daintily wiping clay off her fingers with a handkerchief and Jim throwing with a bow tie on. I did a demo for one of their classes one time and when I walked in in cut-offs and t-shirt (that probably said something like "Legalize Marijuana Now!"), the class gasped.

Jim


My district had a dress code for men-button shirts with ties, no jeans-pressed slacks. I usually tucked my tie, and often wore and apron-which they frowned on. One day I forgot the tuck, and it stuck on the clay, yanking my head to the wheel-thunk! I was lucky that I didn't pass out, just wiped my brow, took a few seconds of deep breath in front of 20 kids, tucked the tie and continued on. Lesson learned! After that the tie always got tucked! Wen through a lot of clothes that way!


Jim, in response to your story, that's awesome. It reminds me of my second teaching job, though not to that extreme. I showed up to the first day of Professional Development, for new teachers, wearing khaki shorts, and maybe a button up shirt, not tucked in. All of the other new teachers, were wearing khaki/ dress pants, with button up or Polo shirts. They were all new, new teachers. There was one other teacher, dressed like me. He was also a "Veteran" teacher. Both of us, were used to districts, where "Professional Development" meant just show up wearing whatever is comfortable. Little did I know, or little did anyone tell me, that the district had a consistent dress code for staff. Every day, we had to wear khaki/ dress pants, and a nice dress type shirt. Even days, where we were in meetings with staff all day, we had to dress like this. On Fridays, we got to get crazy, and wear school-related t-shirts, which I owned none of. Occasionally, we could wear jeans on Fridays, if the school was doing one of their various fundraisers, where you could pay five dollars for the privilege of wearing jeans.
I often wore jeans more often, because my Principal, straight up told me, "You are in one of the messier content areas, so if you think you need to wear jeans once in a while, it's OK." I did just that, but never took advantage of it.
Now, at my current district, it's much like my first. We are to dress nice, when we have students, but can wear jeans on Fridays, but obviously still have to look professional. On professional development days, we can wear whatever; jeans, shorts, t-shirts, ball caps. I don't think I've seen anyone wear sweatpants, but if they didn't none of the administrators would say "Boo". Our administrators trust, that as adults and professionals, we won't show up, looking like slobs. Crazy, I know.
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#22 Benzine

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 05:55 PM

So with the end of the school year, I've got more time to get my studio set up.

I bought some lumber today, to create a work bench/ wedging table top. Luckily, one of the homes previous owners, was into woodworking. So he had a nice wood shop set up in the basement. He had a workbench there, but REALLY like the top, so he took it with him, for the wood shop in his new house. So I've got the frame, but no top. I have several 5X1.5" pieces. I plan to laminate them together, than anchor them to the frame. As the lumber has rounded edges, I plan to square them off with a planer, so the edges match up better (time to call in a favor to the school industrial tech teacher).

My question is, should I use any type of treatment on the surface of the wood? My guess is no, as I'm sure I'll want the wood to absorb some of the moisture out of my clay, but maybe there's something I'm not thinking about.

Also, I eventually want to use an epoxy coating on the floor, the type you use in garages and such. The floor is already concrete, but it's pretty rough and somewhat pitted, because it is nearly one hundred years old. It actually used to be the coal storage room, for the house's furnace. In fact, the coal chute door is still there, on the exterior of the house. So, like I said, it's a little beat, and has a lot of spots that would hold onto clay dust.
Once again, is there any reason, I wouldn't want to use said product?

Thanks All!
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#23 Pres

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 07:50 AM

So with the end of the school year, I've got more time to get my studio set up.

I bought some lumber today, to create a work bench/ wedging table top. Luckily, one of the homes previous owners, was into woodworking. So he had a nice wood shop set up in the basement. He had a workbench there, but REALLY like the top, so he took it with him, for the wood shop in his new house. So I've got the frame, but no top. I have several 5X1.5" pieces. I plan to laminate them together, than anchor them to the frame. As the lumber has rounded edges, I plan to square them off with a planer, so the edges match up better (time to call in a favor to the school industrial tech teacher).

My question is, should I use any type of treatment on the surface of the wood? My guess is no, as I'm sure I'll want the wood to absorb some of the moisture out of my clay, but maybe there's something I'm not thinking about.

Also, I eventually want to use an epoxy coating on the floor, the type you use in garages and such. The floor is already concrete, but it's pretty rough and somewhat pitted, because it is nearly one hundred years old. It actually used to be the coal storage room, for the house's furnace. In fact, the coal chute door is still there, on the exterior of the house. So, like I said, it's a little beat, and has a lot of spots that would hold onto clay dust.
Once again, is there any reason, I wouldn't want to use said product?

Thanks All!


A few things to consider here. You may want to put a thin piece of plywood or masonite over your table surface so that it could be replaced periodically. I think the wood would absorb water to the point it would raise the grain-not good for rolling slabs. When I built my wedging table, I mounted to wall, put triangle legs on and a 2X4 around the edge all around and filled with cement, covered with canvas. Floor the epoxy is grand, there are some new materials out that have a little bit of grit in them for traction and will fill small imperfections in the floor. More expensive, but I think in the long run a good investment for the home.
This last week I broke down and purchased the throwing chair from Baileys that I got for the school-heavenly. It was mentioned in earlier topic. This week I'm into teapots.

Simply retired teacher, not dead, living the dream. on and on and. . . . on. . . .                                                                                 http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/


#24 Benzine

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:55 AM


So with the end of the school year, I've got more time to get my studio set up.

I bought some lumber today, to create a work bench/ wedging table top. Luckily, one of the homes previous owners, was into woodworking. So he had a nice wood shop set up in the basement. He had a workbench there, but REALLY like the top, so he took it with him, for the wood shop in his new house. So I've got the frame, but no top. I have several 5X1.5" pieces. I plan to laminate them together, than anchor them to the frame. As the lumber has rounded edges, I plan to square them off with a planer, so the edges match up better (time to call in a favor to the school industrial tech teacher).

My question is, should I use any type of treatment on the surface of the wood? My guess is no, as I'm sure I'll want the wood to absorb some of the moisture out of my clay, but maybe there's something I'm not thinking about.

Also, I eventually want to use an epoxy coating on the floor, the type you use in garages and such. The floor is already concrete, but it's pretty rough and somewhat pitted, because it is nearly one hundred years old. It actually used to be the coal storage room, for the house's furnace. In fact, the coal chute door is still there, on the exterior of the house. So, like I said, it's a little beat, and has a lot of spots that would hold onto clay dust.
Once again, is there any reason, I wouldn't want to use said product?

Thanks All!


A few things to consider here. You may want to put a thin piece of plywood or masonite over your table surface so that it could be replaced periodically. I think the wood would absorb water to the point it would raise the grain-not good for rolling slabs. When I built my wedging table, I mounted to wall, put triangle legs on and a 2X4 around the edge all around and filled with cement, covered with canvas. Floor the epoxy is grand, there are some new materials out that have a little bit of grit in them for traction and will fill small imperfections in the floor. More expensive, but I think in the long run a good investment for the home.
This last week I broke down and purchased the throwing chair from Baileys that I got for the school-heavenly. It was mentioned in earlier topic. This week I'm into teapots.



Thanks for the plywood suggestion Pres. That's why I asked, I figured there was something I wasn't considering. I'm thinking of wrapping canvas around part of it. Would that help with the water absorbancy issue, and eventual raising of the grain?

I've seen some of the other epoxies you are referring to. They are nice, but as I'm considering doing the rest of the basement as well as the studio, cost is kind of an issue.

Throwing chair you say? I'm going to have to look into that.
"Anything worth believing, is worth questioning"

#25 oldlady

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 09:44 AM

seal the floor. you will be washing it frequently. pits don't matter unless they are golf ball sized and all over. but seal that floor somehow. even concrete paint will do. clay dust seeps into unsealed old concrete and you will wear out mops but never get it really clean.

if you find some TYVEK to cover the table, it will allow you to wash the surface yet it will not stick to the clay. canvas is a dust trap. slapping clay down on a dusty surface in a basement is bad stuff for your lungs.
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#26 Benzine

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:16 AM

seal the floor. you will be washing it frequently. pits don't matter unless they are golf ball sized and all over. but seal that floor somehow. even concrete paint will do. clay dust seeps into unsealed old concrete and you will wear out mops but never get it really clean.

if you find some TYVEK to cover the table, it will allow you to wash the surface yet it will not stick to the clay. canvas is a dust trap. slapping clay down on a dusty surface in a basement is bad stuff for your lungs.


TYVEK? I will look into it.

I am always careful about cleaning up after myself, so dust, shouldn't be an issue.
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#27 oldlady

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:28 AM

Tyvek is a building product used to keep cold winds from blowing through the walls of your new house. if you know a builder who has a big piece, beg for it. the envelopes used for express mail are made of tyvek. you know how strong that is. i am fortunate that i have a leftover roll of tyvek from building my last house. it comes in a 10 foot wide roll. i have seen it in home depot in a three foot wide roll. don't know why anyone would want 3 foot wide for building a house.
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#28 Pres

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:39 AM

This is the wheel I was talking about. It has a slight back that gives some support, and the seat kind of slopes down pushing you towards the wheel. Height adjustable as you see, and less than $100. I have tried all sorts of stools in the studio, including a 3 legged shower adjustable stool thinking I could do better cheaper-NO. This is what I put into the classroom 5 years before retirement, and never had a problem. Should have known better for home. These were originally by CI, but now Speedball.
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#29 OffCenter

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 11:02 AM

Why not pour thick slabs of plaster? I can't imagine not having a big plaster wedging table where I can condition the clay as well as wedge and no dusty canvas.

Jim
E pur si muove.

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#30 Benzine

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 11:17 AM

Why not pour thick slabs of plaster? I can't imagine not having a big plaster wedging table where I can condition the clay as well as wedge and no dusty canvas.

Jim



Not a bad idea, but my studio is multi-purpose, so I will be working with more than just clay on it.
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#31 OffCenter

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 12:36 PM


Why not pour thick slabs of plaster? I can't imagine not having a big plaster wedging table where I can condition the clay as well as wedge and no dusty canvas.

Jim



Not a bad idea, but my studio is multi-purpose, so I will be working with more than just clay on it.


I cut out two pieces of plywood to cover the plaster when I want to use the wedging table for something else. I keep one 3x3 side for dark clay and one 3x3 side for porcelain. I can cover either or both sides with plywood.

Jim
E pur si muove.

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#32 Pres

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 01:05 PM



Why not pour thick slabs of plaster? I can't imagine not having a big plaster wedging table where I can condition the clay as well as wedge and no dusty canvas.

Jim



Not a bad idea, but my studio is multi-purpose, so I will be working with more than just clay on it.


I cut out two pieces of plywood to cover the plaster when I want to use the wedging table for something else. I keep one 3x3 side for dark clay and one 3x3 side for porcelain. I can cover either or both sides with plywood.

Jim


Great idea, Jim, I've got some old plywood doing nothing, will work well to cover the wedging table.

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#33 Benzine

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 01:20 PM



Why not pour thick slabs of plaster? I can't imagine not having a big plaster wedging table where I can condition the clay as well as wedge and no dusty canvas.

Jim



Not a bad idea, but my studio is multi-purpose, so I will be working with more than just clay on it.


I cut out two pieces of plywood to cover the plaster when I want to use the wedging table for something else. I keep one 3x3 side for dark clay and one 3x3 side for porcelain. I can cover either or both sides with plywood.

Jim


Wow, a great idea indeed.....But I already have the boards for the top...
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#34 Benzine

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 09:45 AM

In regards to the plaster wedging surface, I do plan to make a smaller board, that I can set on top.

Another question. I currently have a single bat, and am looking to get more. I know a lot of people here, make their own, but I'm not sure I want to attempt that, at the moment. I was just going to go with the plasti-bat, because I'm used to those. But I noticed that Bailey has a Wonderbat listed, with removable 6" square inserts. I think this would be a great choice for me, as I do a lot of mugs and bowls. The best part is, for thirty bucks, you get the main bat, with six square inserts. So that's much cheaper, than buying six plasti-bats......Yes, I know, but still not as cheap as making dozens of my own.... Does anyone have any experience with the Wonderbat, or a reason, why they wouldn't be a good idea?
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#35 OffCenter

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 10:39 AM

In regards to the plaster wedging surface, I do plan to make a smaller board, that I can set on top.

Another question. I currently have a single bat, and am looking to get more. I know a lot of people here, make their own, but I'm not sure I want to attempt that, at the moment. I was just going to go with the plasti-bat, because I'm used to those. But I noticed that Bailey has a Wonderbat listed, with removable 6" square inserts. I think this would be a great choice for me, as I do a lot of mugs and bowls. The best part is, for thirty bucks, you get the main bat, with six square inserts. So that's much cheaper, than buying six plasti-bats......Yes, I know, but still not as cheap as making dozens of my own.... Does anyone have any experience with the Wonderbat, or a reason, why they wouldn't be a good idea?


I know this isn't what you asked about but you could go batless. It gets a little extreme when I'm throwing 20 lb bowls but I use a heat gun to dry my pots to leather hard on the wheel. It only takes a half a minute or so for mugs and then you can put the handle on them and you're done. Same with bowls that need trimming. Throw it, put the heat gun on it, flip it and trim it. Done. No messing with bats or covering with plastic or coming in two days later and trying to remember where you were going with that pot. For me following through from start to finish without any stopping is important.

Jim
E pur si muove.

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#36 Pres

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 10:40 AM

Used bats in college for everything, as the wheel used plaster bats in an inset head. Over the year though, have found throwing off the wheel head much more efficient unless throwing large. I just make certain to have an undercut on the bottom on a mug and lift with dry hands, small bowls lift carefully with dry fingers. I have used the square bat in rest system, and it does work well if you feel you need to. For larger bowls even better, but not too large.

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#37 Benzine

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 11:11 AM

Thanks Gents.

Honestly, I've thrown off the wheel head, for most of my time, working on the wheel.

In college, I used bats, which makes sense for a shared studio. At my first teaching job, none of the wheels had bat pins, so myself and the students, just threw on the wheel head. At my second job, all the wheels had pins, and we had quite a few bats, so I of course, just used those. At my current job, one of the wheels had pins, which I removed, because we had no bats, with pin holes. So we just throw off the wheel head there too.

So I've got nothing against throwing off the wheel head. I just thought it would be quicker, to have something quickly removable, that I didn't have to let dry.

Generally, when I'm doing a series, I'll throw them, let them air dry for several hours, either on the wheel head or on a bat, cut them off, flip them over to let the bottoms dry, pull some handles if applicable, trim the feet(?), then attach the handles, as the handles have dried nicely while I was trimming. Since I have normally done this in my classroom(s), the process usually got broken up into days, and I'd have to cover the projects, in process. It will be nice, that I shouldn't have to do that now.
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#38 clay lover

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 07:27 AM

Thanks Gents.

Honestly, I've thrown off the wheel head, for most of my time, working on the wheel.

In college, I used bats, which makes sense for a shared studio. At my first teaching job, none of the wheels had bat pins, so myself and the students, just threw on the wheel head. At my second job, all the wheels had pins, and we had quite a few bats, so I of course, just used those. At my current job, one of the wheels had pins, which I removed, because we had no bats, with pin holes. So we just throw off the wheel head there too.

So I've got nothing against throwing off the wheel head. I just thought it would be quicker, to have something quickly removable, that I didn't have to let dry.

Generally, when I'm doing a series, I'll throw them, let them air dry for several hours, either on the wheel head or on a bat, cut them off, flip them over to let the bottoms dry, pull some handles if applicable, trim the feet(?), then attach the handles, as the handles have dried nicely while I was trimming. Since I have normally done this in my classroom(s), the process usually got broken up into days, and I'd have to cover the projects, in process. It will be nice, that I shouldn't have to do that now.


I have Euclid's version of the wonder bat and use 6" bisque tiles ( from Lowe's ),in it. The pieces don't get wired off and come away from the tiles when dry enough with a perfectly smooth bottom. If I need them quicker, I can set them out of the bat onto a wire rack so that the air gets under the tile and helps it dry faster. Great for small pieces and space saving.

#39 Benzine

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 07:35 AM


Thanks Gents.

Honestly, I've thrown off the wheel head, for most of my time, working on the wheel.

In college, I used bats, which makes sense for a shared studio. At my first teaching job, none of the wheels had bat pins, so myself and the students, just threw on the wheel head. At my second job, all the wheels had pins, and we had quite a few bats, so I of course, just used those. At my current job, one of the wheels had pins, which I removed, because we had no bats, with pin holes. So we just throw off the wheel head there too.

So I've got nothing against throwing off the wheel head. I just thought it would be quicker, to have something quickly removable, that I didn't have to let dry.

Generally, when I'm doing a series, I'll throw them, let them air dry for several hours, either on the wheel head or on a bat, cut them off, flip them over to let the bottoms dry, pull some handles if applicable, trim the feet(?), then attach the handles, as the handles have dried nicely while I was trimming. Since I have normally done this in my classroom(s), the process usually got broken up into days, and I'd have to cover the projects, in process. It will be nice, that I shouldn't have to do that now.


I have Euclid's version of the wonder bat and use 6" bisque tiles ( from Lowe's ),in it. The pieces don't get wired off and come away from the tiles when dry enough with a perfectly smooth bottom. If I need them quicker, I can set them out of the bat onto a wire rack so that the air gets under the tile and helps it dry faster. Great for small pieces and space saving.


Ha, that's a great idea! The tiles just happen to fit in there thickness wise huh?
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#40 Heidi K

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 09:08 AM

In regards to the plaster wedging surface, I do plan to make a smaller board, that I can set on top.

Another question. I currently have a single bat, and am looking to get more. I know a lot of people here, make their own, but I'm not sure I want to attempt that, at the moment. I was just going to go with the plasti-bat, because I'm used to those. But I noticed that Bailey has a Wonderbat listed, with removable 6" square inserts. I think this would be a great choice for me, as I do a lot of mugs and bowls. The best part is, for thirty bucks, you get the main bat, with six square inserts. So that's much cheaper, than buying six plasti-bats......Yes, I know, but still not as cheap as making dozens of my own.... Does anyone have any experience with the Wonderbat, or a reason, why they wouldn't be a good idea?


I've been using the Wonderbat system for a few years. It's great for throwing many small pieces and not taking up lots of shelf space (for those of us who like to throw on a bat), but there are some downsides. When the bats are super clean there is some wiggle room, so I actually have to put little pieces of clay between the parts to get the bat to stay still. When the bats AREN'T clean they can be hard to push in and pry out, so they need be in a sweet spot of dirtyness to work well. Also, they warp, so many of mine don't sit flat anymore. The description claims that the pots will release when leather hard, but in my experience the pots don't release until they're close to bone dry - I have used these bats with at least six or seven clay bodies, and I always have to wire off.
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