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Amaco "Potter's choice" glazes


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Thank you for sharing this information! 

Looks like the colors are almost always darker than in the Amaco's ads. I do not think it is the clay, as I used these glazes with the different clays, and the result was still the same. I finally found the right thickness, but it took a while.

 

Thinning the top coat will only make it muddy darker. Keep trying different combinations. I started another thread where I suggested to share positive information about using the different commercial glazes, so maybe some day you could find a good info there. It's called "Commercial glazes: good experience."

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  • 5 months later...
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Hi, I am having the same issue with ancient jasper.  I applied 2 coats without thinning and it was quit thick and pretty much got straight black.  So if I thin it out with (water?) and apply 4 coats in opposite directions this should solve the issue?

 

Here are two images of my sample:

 

Image 01

Image 02

 

Thanks in advace for your help!

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Hi, I am having the same issue with ancient jasper.  I applied 2 coats without thinning and it was quit thick and pretty much got straight black.  So if I thin it out with (water?) and apply 4 coats in opposite directions this should solve the issue?

 

Here are two images of my sample:

 

Image 01

Image 02

 

Thanks in advace for your help!

 

Ancient Jasper is a tough glaze to work with. If you want the advertised glaze, you REALLY have to go pretty thick. Like, 3-4 coats straight out of the jar without thinning. And even then, it's not as much "Jasper" as I'd like.

 

The best results I've gotten from it are layering. It really performs well over other glazes, specifically Amaco's Firebrick Red. That's the closest that I've gotten to the advertised test tile.

 

1-2 coats of firebrick red

1-2 coats of ancient jasper

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That ugly dark purple-brown in Image 02 is most common look Amaco Ancient Jasper has created at our studio.

 

 

Definitely applied too thin when it looks like that., (although I actually like the colour and make use of it at times with a thin application).

 

 

Steve Lampron has commented about AJ here on CAD, see post 8 :- http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/476-amaco-ancient-jasper-question/?hl=jasper

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Thanks.  Do you use a slow-cooling program, or do you let the kiln temperature drop by itself after you reach cone 6?

 

 

When I started using PC glazes I had no choice but to just let the temperature drop, my newer kiln will allow me to do a slow cool down (and it does promote better iron reds) - but I haven't actually used Ancient Jasper for a while.

 

I'll find something to put it on for my next firing (they're fairly infrequent) and really slather it on, (with a catch plate).

 

I'm going to try your floating red too, got two or three new glazes to mix and test - when I can source a few more cheap containers. :)

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all! I just got a bunch of PC glazes in an effort to find a dramatic, reduction-looking red. I am trying to achieve the red advertised by layering Oil Spot over Blue Rutile. I *thought* I'd applied it pretty thick, but this is what I got:

 

 

Any ideas? Is it really possible to get that red?

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I also like the effect I get using a turkey baster or similar syringe type thingy.  I syringe the glaze on.  It goes faster than a brush and goes on thick enough that I don't need to do it more than once.  I can also get a nice uneven application by overlapping the syringed layers somewhat.

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I also like the effect I get using a turkey baster or similar syringe type thingy.  I syringe the glaze on.  It goes faster than a brush and goes on thick enough that I don't need to do it more than once.  I can also get a nice uneven application by overlapping the syringed layers somewhat.

I like using a nasal aspirator, aka the baby snot sucker, for dripping/ splattering.

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I have started playing with some of the potters choice line and my all time favorite right now is PC-20 Blue Rutile. I like it alone but I also really like it with Firebrick Red. In the kiln right now is a bowl with blue rutile under Indigo Float, I'm anxious to see how it comes out. I raised it up but am still a bit concerned about runs I guess I'll see. I have another bowl glazed but not in the kiln since I ran out of room with indigo float over blue midnight, I'm anxious to get the next load fired so I can see how it looks as well.

 

I want to do some more experimenting but need to make some shallow drip pans before I'll feel comfortable going all out with the different glazes and layering.

 

I have had some luck with Palladium, though am struggling with pinholes in anything bigger than a pendant size. Doing some research it seems to be an issue it has with little loafers.

 

Want to get some more of the potters choice colors but need to sell some stuff before I can buy another sample pack.

 

Terry

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I have started playing with some of the potters choice line and my all time favorite right now is PC-20 Blue Rutile. I like it alone but I also really like it with Firebrick Red. In the kiln right now is a bowl with blue rutile under Indigo Float, I'm anxious to see how it comes out. I raised it up but am still a bit concerned about runs I guess I'll see. I have another bowl glazed but not in the kiln since I ran out of room with indigo float over blue midnight, I'm anxious to get the next load fired so I can see how it looks as well.

 

Terry

 

Terry, will you post a few pictures, please?  Reading through this thread has me intrigued.  Best of luck with the firing!

-Paul

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Are any of you getting the silver from Palladium that the adds show?  I have tested it thick thin and very thick and still get black.  at ^6 with a slow cool.

I've had lots of trouble with palladium. I apply 2-3 coats and fire it to ^6 with a 15 minute hold. It's usually that nice silver but is occasionally that ugly black. I have also found that it looks especially silvery under a clear glaze.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am really new to this forum (since 15 min. ago) and just happened onto this subject.  I am a fan of Potters Choice glazes and have had good luck with all except Ancient Jasper by applying 3 good coats and firing to a cone 5 in my digitally-controlled kiln and holding for 1 hour.  The only good results that I have had in layering PC glazes is by putting on a good base layer and using a split fan brush with strokes in different directions leaving gaps or open spaces for the base color to "peep" through (3 layers for the covering layer).  I have really enjoyed your comments and do feel connected.

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  • 8 months later...

Has anyone found that you need a hold built in for glaze firing Potter's Choice glazes? I'm planning on slow firing to ^6 but unsure whether or not to include a hold. As with anything, it'll come down to testing, but since this was my first go with PC glazes I figured I'd ask around to see if there was any common starting point.

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I've used them with success. They dog go one like a dream. I love the Albany slip brown over texture. Tenmoku works well. Seaweed needs a thick coat and can look awesome. I've pretty much stopped using Ancient Jasper. It just doesn't work for me no matter how thick.

 

I fire them all to cone 5 with a 15 minute hold.

Good luck!

Marc

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  • 11 months later...

I read this forum the other day as I just bought some Potter's Choice glazes and wanted to see if there was any information or pictures of them on any clay other than white. I found nothing. Contrary to good sense, I glazed several pieces of finished work that I plan to sell with the new glazes, completely skipping the test tile process. I had some pretty happy results and I thought I would share what I learned in the process:

 

Glazes bought by the gallon in liquid form: Potter's Choice  PC - 25 Textured Turquoise, PC - 53 Ancient Jasper  and PC - 43 Toasted Sage

 

What I did to the glaze and how I applied them: There is no way I was going to brush glazes on, so I found information on a forum that suggested mixing an entire gallon of water into each gallon of glaze. I did that, but added it slowly, and checking the thickness of the glaze after each mixing. It ended up being pretty much a gallon of water for each gallon of glaze. The bonus is I now have twice as much glaze for the money I spent!

 

What I fired it in: Paragon Dragon 24 electric kiln. Though the PC directions say to bisque to 04 and brush several coats on, I did my usual bisque for dipping and pouring, cone 06. The glaze fire was cone 6. 

 

What clay I used:

Laguna 66 white with sand

Laguna 80 Medium Brown

Standard 266 dark brown (I just saw a post about bloating of this clay, which I have had some issues with in large, 1/2" slab constructions, and there were a few tiny bloats in some of the pieces pictured below, but nothing I find too distracting)

 

I read a lot of posts about having problems getting Ancient Jasper to look right. The first photo shows Ancient Jasper on Laguna 66. Kind of ... meh.  

The second photo show Ancient Jasper on Laguna 80   - Wow!! Same application, same firing, way better results. I did a 6 second dip for both.  post-66051-0-18935200-1446601991_thumb.jpgpost-66051-0-30088600-1446602129_thumb.jpg

 

The other glaze I was happier with on non white clay was the Textured Turquoise. It was nice on stamped cups made with white clay, and ok on horizontal texture. It was, however, spectacular on medium brown clay, horizontal texture. 

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Another happy discovery was the Toasted Sage on Standard 266. On white clay it was OK - if you like beige and pale pink.

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On the dark brown clay it was matte and very interesting texture:

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I realize that for a company to make color charts for glazes for more than one type of clay is a chore, but it would be really nice to have an idea of what they would look like on brown or dark brown clay. 

 

In the meantime, I will keep experimenting on my own :-)

 

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It's interesting that this thread popped up again today. I just spent the day brushing and pouring Potters Choice Blue Rutile, Temmoku, Oatmeal and Lustrous Jade on Sheffield stoneware. This was my first experience with these glazes and will be my first glaze firing with this clay. I'm planning on using the cone 6 slow glaze program and I'll post the results when finished.

 

Paul

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