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#21 Diane Puckett

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 09:33 PM

Love the new design, but on both I keep thinking the diameter of the inverted bowl should be no larger than the base. On looking at a neighbor's lantern, the way it stands reminds me of a sumo wrestler, very firmly planted on stocky legs.

I have copied and saved your photo, will let you know when I make one, now that I am inspired.

BTW, I can send you mosquitoes that are numerous and feisty.
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#22 Kohaku

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 10:46 PM

Love the new design, but on both I keep thinking the diameter of the inverted bowl should be no larger than the base. On looking at a neighbor's lantern, the way it stands reminds me of a sumo wrestler, very firmly planted on stocky legs.

I have copied and saved your photo, will let you know when I make one, now that I am inspired.

BTW, I can send you mosquitoes that are numerous and feisty.


Interesting. Intuitively, I might lean towards that rule of thumb (keep the hood narrower than the base)... but the in examples I've looked, its overwhelmingly the other way (broad hood, narrower base). There are so many styles, though...

On the mosquitos... I'm about to take a group of students to Ecuador for a month, and there will be plenty of biting things there. Yay bullet ants...
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#23 Pres

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 08:21 AM


Love the new design, but on both I keep thinking the diameter of the inverted bowl should be no larger than the base. On looking at a neighbor's lantern, the way it stands reminds me of a sumo wrestler, very firmly planted on stocky legs.

I have copied and saved your photo, will let you know when I make one, now that I am inspired.

BTW, I can send you mosquitoes that are numerous and feisty.


Interesting. Intuitively, I might lean towards that rule of thumb (keep the hood narrower than the base)... but the in examples I've looked, its overwhelmingly the other way (broad hood, narrower base). There are so many styles, though...

On the mosquitos... I'm about to take a group of students to Ecuador for a month, and there will be plenty of biting things there. Yay bullet ants...


I would do some what if. Usually this would be done in a sketchbook, but in this day of technology, take the images for both into Photoshop or a comparable program. . . cut the pieces onto different layers, and resize them putting them back together to see where it takes you. I do this with things as simple as mugs, and as complex as sculptures. It often helps me get a better feel for the design.

Simply retired teacher, not dead, living the dream. on and on and. . . . on. . . .                                                                                 http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/


#24 Kohaku

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 11:14 AM

I would do some what if. Usually this would be done in a sketchbook, but in this day of technology, take the images for both into Photoshop or a comparable program. . . cut the pieces onto different layers, and resize them putting them back together to see where it takes you. I do this with things as simple as mugs, and as complex as sculptures. It often helps me get a better feel for the design.


Very intriguing idea. I've certainly done some sketching before getting on the wheel (varying the lantern to base ratio, for instance)... but somehow, a two-dimensional drawing never seems to convey the look of a piece once you've made it on the wheel.

So- you import actual photos, chop them up, and alter the dimensions?

I'm an extremely inexperienced Gimp user, and this would stretch me a bit... but I'm going to try it.

Posted Image
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#25 Pres

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 12:45 PM


I would do some what if. Usually this would be done in a sketchbook, but in this day of technology, take the images for both into Photoshop or a comparable program. . . cut the pieces onto different layers, and resize them putting them back together to see where it takes you. I do this with things as simple as mugs, and as complex as sculptures. It often helps me get a better feel for the design.


Very intriguing idea. I've certainly done some sketching before getting on the wheel (varying the lantern to base ratio, for instance)... but somehow, a two-dimensional drawing never seems to convey the look of a piece once you've made it on the wheel.

So- you import actual photos, chop them up, and alter the dimensions?

I'm an extremely inexperienced Gimp user, and this would stretch me a bit... but I'm going to try it.

Posted Image


If you are familiar with the Gimp, you can do the same in there. I think you will find it a useful tool to use when you have a photo, and at the same time you could try mix and match. Take pieces from one design and move it to another piece. I try to use as many tools as possible to visualize things, sometimes 3D with Blender, sometimes with Corel Draw, Gimp, or Photoshop. Whatever gets the job done.

Simply retired teacher, not dead, living the dream. on and on and. . . . on. . . .                                                                                 http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/


#26 Kohaku

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 06:59 AM

Here's another image (by the way- I'll be back from Ecuador on the 30th, and will actually fire some of these things).

I've done minimal slab work, so this was a bit of a stretch for me... but I wanted to build a table-side box lantern. People may have noticed that I've been on a 'thrown doughnut' binge of late... thus the handles and the base.

My one initial thought on this one is that the handle should have mirrored the base a bit more...

Posted Image
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#27 kathi

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 07:07 AM

I think I like this one the best! Please post a picture after you glaze and fire!

Here's another image (by the way- I'll be back from Ecuador on the 30th, and will actually fire some of these things).

I've done minimal slab work, so this was a bit of a stretch for me... but I wanted to build a table-side box lantern. People may have noticed that I've been on a 'thrown doughnut' binge of late... thus the handles and the base.

My one initial thought on this one is that the handle should have mirrored the base a bit more...

Posted Image



#28 Kohaku

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 07:30 AM

I think I like this one the best! Please post a picture after you glaze and fire!


Will do... thanks Kathi.

I'm now hitting the road to catch some bats in the coastal dry forest...
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#29 Kohaku

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 03:11 PM

OK... so this one is less of a 'proportions' question and more of a 'design' question... but I thought I'd post it here rather than making a new thread.

 

I make water features- usually with a basal pedestal (cone six) and a raku upper vessel. The pump sits in the pedestal and sends water into the upper vessel. See example in my gallery.

 

I recently lost a sale because a potential buyer thought the piece 'didn't sound enough like a mountain brook'. Honestly- I know what she meant. When water falls in a single stream (as it does in the fountain in the image above), it sound more like a drinking fountain than like something natural.

 

In thinking of alternatives- I decided to try making an upper vessel that was shaped something like a mill wheel- with flanges inside the rim. The water would (hopefully) burble from flange to flange.

 

These proved to be challenging to make, however. I threw three pieces (Two shallow bowls and an inner disc), slipped/scored the components (using magic water) and joined them. See photo essay below. Jim- if you read this, please ignore the Giffin!

 

Photo_essay_zps20554410.jpg

 

Unfortunately, the structure made it hard to join the components as firmly as I usually do (couldn't really push without warping the structure). Both of the ones I made cracked at the seams during yesterdays Raku firing.

 

Anyhow, I was curious as to whether anyone had thoughts on A) making this partcular form... but in a more robust fashion, and B) alternate ways to achieve the 'babbling brook' sound in a smaller indoor water feature.


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#30 Mark C.

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 03:29 PM

The sound you are looking for is from mulitiple streams of different sizes so make and edge that has different size escapes(notches) so the water flows fast and slower at same time.

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#31 Kohaku

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 04:51 PM

The sound you are looking for is from mulitiple streams of different sizes so make and edge that has different size escapes(notches) so the water flows fast and slower at same time.

Mark

 

Yeah- that makes sense- probably why you see so many of those vertical water features with the corrugated texture. This is part of why the 'mill wheel' shape was intriguing- inherently forces the water to move in complex patterns.

 

Part of my challenge lies with trying to get a bigger sound out of a 16' high assemblage. There are physical limits in terms of the fall distance. I've tried to surmount some of this by having a curved basin (echo chamber)


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#32 Biglou13

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 05:07 PM

turbulence!

 

can you make or place something in catch basin  that will make sounds,   light weight ceramic pebbles?, hydroton? it will a least increase the splash quality

different sized holes in inserts some concex some concave

tell that customer to by some water front property, buy him a cd of a babbling brook

you didnt lose a sale,  the piece will go to a better owner


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#33 Kohaku

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 10:12 AM

turbulence!

 

can you make or place something in catch basin  that will make sounds,   light weight ceramic pebbles?, hydroton? it will a least increase the splash quality

different sized holes in inserts some concex some concave

tell that customer to by some water front property, buy him a cd of a babbling brook

you didnt lose a sale,  the piece will go to a better owner

 

 

The pebble idea is actually somethig I've played with- maybe a use for some of those ceramic shards I'm going to generate using a tumbler.

 

I agree on general principles about the customer's attitude... except that I tend to agree with her critique. Trying to enhance the sonic quality of these things is something that's interested me for sometime.

 

On another note- I've been cranking some raku lately, and some of the pieces I posted in raw form are finished. Here's one of them...

 

IMG_2073_zps75f78ab6.jpg


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#34 Benzine

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 11:27 AM

turbulence!
 
can you make or place something in catch basin  that will make sounds,   light weight ceramic pebbles?, hydroton? it will a least increase the splash quality
different sized holes in inserts some concex some concave
tell that customer to by some water front property, buy him a cd of a babbling brook
you didnt lose a sale,  the piece will go to a better owner

 
 
The pebble idea is actually somethig I've played with- maybe a use for some of those ceramic shards I'm going to generate using a tumbler.
 
I agree on general principles about the customer's attitude... except that I tend to agree with her critique. Trying to enhance the sonic quality of these things is something that's interested me for sometime.
 
On another note- I've been cranking some raku lately, and some of the pieces I posted in raw form are finished. Here's one of them...
 
IMG_2073_zps75f78ab6.jpg

Love the piece. Is there any way you could paint the bulb socket? I think it takes away from the piece overall, though I'm sure it's not noticeable, with the light on.
Still a grat piece. What did you use to color the fish, underglaze?
"Anything worth believing, is worth questioning"

#35 Kohaku

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 09:32 AM

Love the piece. Is there any way you could paint the bulb socket? I think it takes away from the piece overall, though I'm sure it's not noticeable, with the light on.
Still a grat piece. What did you use to color the fish, underglaze?

 

 

Thanks mate- much obliged.

 

This is the first run of lanterns that I've tried to wire for power- and I definitely have a lot to learn. This one- I think I may completely re-wire for a smaller gauge bulb- that thing is simply too enormous.

 

There are a couple accent glazes on the carving- all are Raku glazes. The man color comes from Ferguson's Turquoise. Here's the recipe...

Ferro Frit 3110 100
Tin Oxide          3
Copper Carb.   3
Bentonite         3


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#36 seancisse

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 04:24 PM

Kohaku, I'm late for answering.

The best way I found to get balance proportion is to use the golden ratio (http://en.wikipedia....ki/Golden_ratio): 1,618.

I found that if each dimension is mulitplied or divided by 1,618, then I get something "nice".



#37 Biglou13

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 07:03 PM

1.618

 

decimal point not comma

 

not one thousand six hundred eighteen

 

phi its the cousin of fibonacci


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The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination.
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#38 Kohaku

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 11:38 PM

It gets a little complex with a ramified, 3D object though. Take that lantern for example... you'd need a computer to assess all the relationships. If the golden ratio is truly meaningful, I'd like to think that the eye could recognize it intuitively...


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#39 Biglou13

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 04:05 AM

I'm with you.
Trust the gut feeling it's usually right.
It's innate design and composition, even in nature.
I think these rules are for school, and the occasional artist that doesn't have a creative bone in his body. I laughed when I saw it as an camera viewfinder overlay. Because I've always approached design and composition that way.
Caution big brother is watching.
The beige is blinding!!!!!!
The middle of the road is boring

The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination.
-Albert Einstein




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