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Steven Hill's Firing Schedule For Bisque?


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#1 John255

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 03:14 PM

Does anyone have Steven Hill's glaze firing schedule for bisque?
The schedule in his article is prolonged in the beginning because his work is single fired.
Thanks.
John255



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#2 Min

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 04:52 PM

From summer of 2011 his schedule for glaze firing if he used bisqued not raw pots:

segment 1 - 200F/hr - 220 - hold 30 mins if you have raw cone packs in the firing

segment 2 - 400F/hr - 2100 - 0 hold

segment 3 - 100F/hr - 2170 - 30 to 60 min hold until ^6 falls, tweaking required

segment 4 - 9999F/hr - 1700 - 0 hold

segment 5 - 50F/hr - 1600 - 60 min hold

segment 6 - 50F/hr - 1500 - Off

He says that since kilns are calibrated differently and he doesn't use bisque pots that the above schedule would be some approximation of what he would use.

Min

#3 OffCenter

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 05:11 PM

From summer of 2011 his schedule for glaze firing if he used bisqued not raw pots:

segment 1 - 200F/hr - 220 - hold 30 mins if you have raw cone packs in the firing

segment 2 - 400F/hr - 2100 - 0 hold

segment 3 - 100F/hr - 2170 - 30 to 60 min hold until ^6 falls, tweaking required

segment 4 - 9999F/hr - 1700 - 0 hold

segment 5 - 50F/hr - 1600 - 60 min hold

segment 6 - 50F/hr - 1500 - Off

He says that since kilns are calibrated differently and he doesn't use bisque pots that the above schedule would be some approximation of what he would use.

Min


I've never been to one of his workshops but have wondered why the speedy cool from 2170 to 1700. Seems like that is when it would be best to slow down so mattes can develop instead of where the glaze is no longer molten (or just barely). I've never seen anything explaining that in articles he has written so just wondering if he explains this in workshops.

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#4 John255

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 06:26 PM

Thank you Min for taking the time to post the sched.
That looks about right to me.
John255

Jim,
I have exactly the same question that you have.
I just did a search and it seems SH may be following the work of Carol Marians: The Many Faces Of Iron.
http://ceramicartsda...ion-in-cooling/
This study shows prolonged holding around 1600F turns normally dark brown Iron to bright red colors.
I'm just starting to look into SH's firing methods for his very attractive glazes.
I feel sure SH must have run some test of his own being the reliable fellow that he is.
Hope others will chime in on this giving their experience with such long firings.
John255
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#5 OffCenter

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 07:33 PM

Thank you Min for taking the time to post the sched.
That looks about right to me.
John255

Jim,
I have exactly the same question that you have.
I just did a search and it seems SH may be following the work of Carol Marians: The Many Faces Of Iron.
http://ceramicartsda...ion-in-cooling/
This study shows prolonged holding around 1600F turns normally dark brown Iron to bright red colors.
I'm just starting to look into SH's firing methods for his very attractive glazes.
I feel sure SH must have run some test of his own being the reliable fellow that he is.
Hope others will chime in on this giving their experience with such long firings.
John255


Thanks, John! I haven't had time to read it carefully yet but it is interesting and looks like it will answer my question. I appreciate you posting it. Here is an example of the glazes I get using a cool down very similar to Hill's: http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=2580

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#6 John255

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 08:23 PM

Jim,
All I can say is "wow", and that seems inadequate.
Gorgeous pieces!
I've seen and admired your work before finding your post on the forum.
Are you at liberty to say if your slow firing schedule differs from SH's?
Thanks.
John255
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#7 OffCenter

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 08:50 AM

Jim,
All I can say is "wow", and that seems inadequate.
Gorgeous pieces!
I've seen and admired your work before finding your post on the forum.
Are you at liberty to say if your slow firing schedule differs from SH's?
Thanks.
John255


John, it is obviously a variation of Hill's. Very close to what you posted (9999 meaning as fast as possible):
9999 to 2100
75 to 2190 hold 60 mins
9999 to 1700
50 to 1600 hold 30 mins
50 to 1500
Off

The cup pictured only has 4 glazes outside plus the liner glaze overlapping the top.
Silky White liner poured then dipped so that it overlaps top.
I spray Strontium Crystal Magic Warm base coat over all thicker in middle and thinner at bottom and top.
Then over almost all Juicy Fruit Iron (with Spanish Iron subed for RIO) varying the thickness to accent the shape of the pot.
Then Hill's Water Color Green is sprayed on with a detail gun or airbrush in a spiral.
Then a Turquoise is sprayed with detail or airbrush in spiral under WCG.

Let me know if you need any of these glazes.

Thanks for comment.

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#8 OffCenter

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 10:00 AM

Thanks Min for posting the schedule.

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#9 Min

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 11:01 AM


Jim,
All I can say is "wow", and that seems inadequate.
Gorgeous pieces!
I've seen and admired your work before finding your post on the forum.
Are you at liberty to say if your slow firing schedule differs from SH's?
Thanks.
John255


John, it is obviously a variation of Hill's. Very close to what you posted (9999 meaning as fast as possible):
9999 to 2100
75 to 2190 hold 60 mins
9999 to 1700
50 to 1600 hold 30 mins
50 to 1500
Off

The cup pictured only has 4 glazes outside plus the liner glaze overlapping the top.
Silky White liner poured then dipped so that it overlaps top.
I spray Strontium Crystal Magic Warm base coat over all thicker in middle and thinner at bottom and top.
Then over almost all Juicy Fruit Iron (with Spanish Iron subed for RIO) varying the thickness to accent the shape of the pot.
Then Hill's Water Color Green is sprayed on with a detail gun or airbrush in a spiral.
Then a Turquoise is sprayed with detail or airbrush in spiral under WCG.

Let me know if you need any of these glazes.

Thanks for comment.

Jim



Jim, do you get crazing with the SCM and the Water Colour Green? I have tried both on 3 claybodies and they all crazed when I did a boiling water/ice water fit test. I also found Hill's Apricot glaze crazed badly. Hill's Satin White doesn't craze for me though.

Min



#10 OffCenter

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 12:40 PM

Jim, do you get crazing with the SCM and the Water Colour Green? I have tried both on 3 claybodies and they all crazed when I did a boiling water/ice water fit test. I also found Hill's Apricot glaze crazed badly. Hill's Satin White doesn't craze for me though.

Min



Min, I mainly use it to accent or modify other glazes so it is a thin spray on top of 2 or 3 other glazes so it doesn't craze. It does crackle where thick. I use it on cone 5 B-Mix fired to cone 6-7. Here is a different use of it. Here is is on Frost glazed with a thick dipping of clear then a feathering spray of WCG. http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=2581

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#11 Min

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 12:56 PM


Jim, do you get crazing with the SCM and the Water Colour Green? I have tried both on 3 claybodies and they all crazed when I did a boiling water/ice water fit test. I also found Hill's Apricot glaze crazed badly. Hill's Satin White doesn't craze for me though.

Min



Min, I mainly use it to accent or modify other glazes so it is a thin spray on top of 2 or 3 other glazes so it doesn't craze. It does crackle where thick. I use it on cone 5 B-Mix fired to cone 6-7. Here is a different use of it. Here is is on Frost glazed with a thick dipping of clear then a feathering spray of WCG. http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=2581

Jim


Thanks Jim, gorgeous pots!

Min



#12 John255

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 06:21 PM

Jim,
Thank you very much for sharing your firing sched.
This info will be valuable in comparing results on my first firing using SH formulas.
I bought the SH's CD and found it very well done.
For my first mock firing with this new kiln I selected 2180F for a target temp to start the hold for one hour.
This resulted in a slight over firing with ^6 down flat.
It seems more logical to adjust the ^5 target temp to allow a full hour of soak at ^6 rather than cutting the soak time short to prent over firing.
Your pots are beautiful and very encouraging for potential electric firing results. Thanks again.
Regards,
John255
John255

#13 OffCenter

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 03:19 PM

Jim,
Thank you very much for sharing your firing sched.
This info will be valuable in comparing results on my first firing using SH formulas.
I bought the SH's CD and found it very well done.
For my first mock firing with this new kiln I selected 2180F for a target temp to start the hold for one hour.
This resulted in a slight over firing with ^6 down flat.
It seems more logical to adjust the ^5 target temp to allow a full hour of soak at ^6 rather than cutting the soak time short to prent over firing.
Your pots are beautiful and very encouraging for potential electric firing results. Thanks again.
Regards,
John255


The CD is a good one but they made a couple of mistakes on the PDF file of recipes, so be careful. I just looked for it and can't find it but I corrected one or two recipes. I can look harder if you need that info.

Jiim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#14 John255

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 04:33 PM

Jim,
Yes, thank you.
I'll be glazing tomorrow using SCM warm as a base white.
If you know of any error in that formula from the PDF please let me know.
This will be an experimental trial run using color layered glazes of my own concoctions .
Regards,
John255


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#15 OffCenter

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 05:38 PM

Jim,
Yes, thank you.
I'll be glazing tomorrow using SCM warm as a base white.
If you know of any error in that formula from the PDF please let me know.
This will be an experimental trial run using color layered glazes of my own concoctions .
Regards,
John255


I think that one is okay. Here's what I have for SCM Warm
Custer ... 39.6
Whiting ... 14.9
Strontium Carb ... 10.9
EPK ... 12.9
Frit 3124 ... 3.9
Lithium Carb ... 3.9
Titanium Diox ... 11.9
Bentonite ... 2.0
Yellow Iron Ox ... 2.5

But, SCM warm is not white because of the Yellow Iron Ox. SCM cool is white. I think just leaving out the yellow iron could be called SCM cool but the recipe I have for it splits the Custer in above recipe into 19.4 Custer & 19.4 Neph Sy.

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#16 Pugaboo

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 06:12 PM

Min, I mainly use it to accent or modify other glazes so it is a thin spray on top of 2 or 3 other glazes so it doesn't craze. It does crackle where thick. I use it on cone 5 B-Mix fired to cone 6-7. Here is a different use of it. Here is is on Frost glazed with a thick dipping of clear then a feathering spray of WCG. http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=2581

Jim


Sorry to butt in on this discussion as I am just learning and its way beyond me at this point BUT...
off center your stuff is absolutely incredible. I love the white and blue. My question is what is WCG? Thank you I want to make note of the colors you used so one day I can hopefully try and capture the same tones.

Terry
The world is but a canvas to the imagination - Henry David Thoreau

#17 John255

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 06:26 PM

Jim,
OK, got it!
I will use 2% yellow iron.
I've already mixed the batch, but think I'm within 1% of the numbers you supplied.
I always round up/down the fractions anyway.
Thank you so much for your input.
John255
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#18 OffCenter

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 06:33 PM


Min, I mainly use it to accent or modify other glazes so it is a thin spray on top of 2 or 3 other glazes so it doesn't craze. It does crackle where thick. I use it on cone 5 B-Mix fired to cone 6-7. Here is a different use of it. Here is is on Frost glazed with a thick dipping of clear then a feathering spray of WCG. http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=2581

Jim


Sorry to butt in on this discussion as I am just learning and its way beyond me at this point BUT...
off center your stuff is absolutely incredible. I love the white and blue. My question is what is WCG? Thank you I want to make note of the colors you used so one day I can hopefully try and capture the same tones.

Terry


Thank you, Terry. WCG stands for Water Color Green. It isn't a good stand-alone glaze because it has too much copper to be completely stable (It shouldn't be used on a surface touching food) and it crackles where thick when used alone on most clays. So, basically what you have is a lousy glaze that is very good for adding a touch of color to another glaze--aquamarine in oxidation and red in reduction. The only commercial glaze I use is a clear by Opulence called 125 Clear. I buy it in large quantities dry. I'd prefer not to use any commercial glazes but I have never been able to mix up a clear this nice, having this huge range of temps and being so forgiving of application. So, for the white and blue, that is cone 6 Frost porcelain (wonderfully translucent) with WCG sprayed over the clear so that it feathers out. Here is the recipe for WCG. I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions or need other recipes.

Water Color Green (cone 6)
Custer ... 47.8
Silica ... 16.9
Lithium ... 4.0
Frit 3124 ... 5.0
Whiting ... 16.0
Strontium ... 7.5
Bentonite ... 2.9
Copper Carb ... 8.0

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#19 John255

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 06:42 PM

Jim,
Please mention the qualities you find in Opulence Clear 125 that you are fond of.
I've found most formulas of ^6 clear produce far too much gloss to the point of distraction.
John255
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#20 Min

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 07:05 PM

The Hannah's Fake Ash recipe that is on the CD is goofy. I don't believe the silica 22.7 should be in there. Original HFA had slightly more redart and no 3195, I can understand those modifications but not the addition of silica.


Min




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