Hikidashi

[Biglou13]

I'm interested in hikidashi japanese techniquenofmpulling out item at approx cone 6 the quenching. Similar to raku. See you tube.

 

Since, I don't have a wood fire kiln. And I can't pull a piece out at cone 6 electric.

 

Can I fire piece at cone six electric. Then re fire at a raku firing then quench. And get similar results? Yeah it's a cheat buts its alligot.

 

Ill be using the black glaze formula in kusakabe san's book.

 

This may be a John b san question, and or other wood fire gurus.........

 

Again big thanks in advance...

[Guest JBaymore]

Sure you can pull it out of the electric kiln.

 

Set the bowls up on the top shelf, have a good set of golves and tongs.

 

Turn off the kiln, prefereable at the main switch. Open the lid and go for it.

 

Just DON'T touch the elements with the tongs if thre is ANY chance the is power there!!!!!!!

 

Clay body is EVERYTHING in this process. Hikidash clays are typically NOT as vitreous as most American clays are for the given firing cone. Very porous. Helps with the thermal shock. (And gives the bowls a good "whisk sound".... unlike vitreous clays.)

 

 

best,

 

...............john

[Biglou13]

Sure you can pull it out of the electric kiln.

 

Set the bowls up on the top shelf, have a good set of golves and tongs.

 

Turn off the kiln, prefereable at the main switch. Open the lid and go for it.

 

Just DON'T touch the elements with the tongs if thre is ANY chance the is power there!!!!!!!

 

Clay body is EVERYTHING in this process. Hikidash clays are typically NOT as vitreous as most American clays are for the given firing cone. Very porous. Helps with the thermal shock. (And gives the bowls a good "whisk sound".... unlike vitreous clays.)

 

 

best,

 

...............john

 

 

Sensei John,

Glad your back hope all is well. Thankyou for reply. Given you experience as chajin and educator i knew you were goto person for answer.

 

Since My pots are fired at community studio I doubt that I can pull from electric kiln.

 

Often the answers to my question spur more questions........ ( and it takes a while the knowledge to get through my hard head)

 

Since I can't follow your directions .....

 

Will fire in cone 6 electric then refire in raku and quench work? ( technique seems part cone 6 part raku)

 

In videos I've seen it appears they are in reduction prior to "pulling out". Is atmosphere crtical, prior to quench?

 

In order to mimic hikidash clay with commercially available clays. I need to pick one that takes thermal shock, and perhaps pick a clay that will be under fired at cone 6 so that it is less vitreous.

Can you suggest a clay body? Highwater , Especially highwater east coast clays are readily available, and axner clays are readily available locally. But if suggestion includes a supplier that ships USPS flat rate that will work also. Raku workshop is early June.

And or how can I alter a clay body to meet requirements. (I have some laguna #900, highwater Trina buff,Helios)

 

The glaze formula I'm planning on using is from kusakabe, lancet san. Book. 1part RIO and 2 part pine ash. Glaze appears to applied thickly from videos. Do I apply normal or go with thicker application? Sound like a runny glaze.... But doesn't look like it seeing finished product (Internet and book only).

 

What shape or style of tea ware is traditional for hikidashi?