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Wood fire clay body?


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#1 Biglou13

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 11:02 PM

I'm jealous of those who wood fire and or have access to...and anxiously look forward to experience.
And if anyone close to north Florida needs a volunteer please contact me,. ( I've never spit wood, but can hold my own with sledge hammer, and can carry 2x more than most mortals)

To those that wood fire, do you formulate, or tweak commercial, or use commercial clay, out of box? I've read than john B. does.

If not trade secret please advise.

My latest mix is laguna #900 with added grogs. I recently found some granite that will try tomorrow, (chicken grit), It fires to buff at cone 6 ox. That's all I have access to at this time. (See avatar / gallery gunomi)

Supposedly goes to 10 and is darker in reduction. am interested if this body would be ok with wood firing?

Ps. What no drama this week..... ;)/>/>

Thanks

Bijou errr........ Big lou
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#2 Mark C.

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 02:49 AM

I have used from Laguna 49er clay as well as wood and sagar clay.
Mark
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#3 GEP

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 08:19 AM

Highwater Phoenix. It's a dream to throw it, and it holds up great in all the variables of wood firing. Nice big range of color responses. My favorite wood fire clay by a mile.

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#4 OffCenter

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 09:03 AM

I fire in an anagama in middle Georgia. Cone 13, 5 days of stoking. I can give you contact info if you're interested. I've tried just about every commercial wood fire clay available plus combos of those and from scratch mixes and nothing comes close to B-Mix Woodfire by Laguna.

http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=1845

The big jar has a nice coat of ash glaze on the side receiving the flame, but the nice thing about this clay is that the side away from the flame still flashes beautifully.

http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=1666

Most of these bottles were bought by a collector for the Davis Museum in CA. They are all the same clay but one is stained black and some have chunks of feldspar wedged into the clay.

Jim
E pur si muove.

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#5 Biglou13

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 11:38 AM

I fire in an anagama in middle Georgia. Cone 13, 5 days of stoking. I can give you contact info if you're interested. I've tried just about every commercial wood fire clay available plus combos of those and from scratch mixes and nothing comes close to B-Mix Woodfire by Laguna.

http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=1845

The big jar has a nice coat of ash glaze on the side receiving the flame, but the nice thing about this clay is that the side away from the flame still flashes beautifully.

http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=1666

Most of these bottles were bought by a collector for the Davis Museum in CA. They are all the same clay but one is stained black and some have chunks of feldspar wedged into the clay.

Jim


Nice !!!!!

Thanks. When you say chunks of feldspar Where do get these chunks?

I imagined you being near lizella you would be blending something up local-style?

Is that b mix flashing with out flashing slip?
.
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The beige is blinding!!!!!!
The middle of the road is boring

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#6 Mark C.

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 12:08 PM

I have some B mix woodfire-yet to use it.
As far as slips I have used Helmer kaolin mixed as a slip with good results.
Mark
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#7 Biglou13

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 12:29 PM

I have some B mix woodfire-yet to use it.
As far as slips I have used Helmer kaolin mixed as a slip with good results.
Mark


Never have wood fired so sorry for all the questions...

Helmer kaolin and water for slip?

To leather hard pieces after trimming? If dipped or brushed, the bottom of foot will not be slipped or, marginally?
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#8 Mark C.

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 12:33 PM


I have some B mix woodfire-yet to use it.
As far as slips I have used Helmer kaolin mixed as a slip with good results.
Mark


Never have wood fired so sorry for all the questions...

Helmer kaolin and water for slip?

To leather hard pieces after trimming? If dipped or brushed, the bottom of foot will not be slipped or, marginally?


I sprayed it on greenware and bisques it on as I had to travel a way with it
also sprayed on bisque ware and salted it.
Mark
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www.liscomhillpottery.com

#9 OffCenter

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 01:27 PM


I fire in an anagama in middle Georgia. Cone 13, 5 days of stoking. I can give you contact info if you're interested. I've tried just about every commercial wood fire clay available plus combos of those and from scratch mixes and nothing comes close to B-Mix Woodfire by Laguna.

http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=1845

The big jar has a nice coat of ash glaze on the side receiving the flame, but the nice thing about this clay is that the side away from the flame still flashes beautifully.

http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=1666

Most of these bottles were bought by a collector for the Davis Museum in CA. They are all the same clay but one is stained black and some have chunks of feldspar wedged into the clay.

Jim


Nice !!!!!

Thanks. When you say chunks of feldspar Where do get these chunks?

I imagined you being near lizella you would be blending something up local-style?

Is that b mix flashing with out flashing slip?
.


I don't use flashing slips. When I first started wood firing I did but never was impressed by any of them. I'd recommend using them only on test tiles until you find one you like or decide you don't need them. I messed up some good pots with them when I started.

Not near but IN Lizella. I've mixed it into clays but never liked the results much. I prefer to keep it pure and fire to cone 6 or below. I think one of John B's main clays has Lizella in it. He fires it in his noborigama. By itself it is too dark above cone 8 and can only take cone 10 for a short time before starting to deform.

I don't remember where I got the chunks of feldspar, but I think it is easy to find at any good ceramic supply house. You can probably find it easily in FL. I usually use Davens in Atlanta and what I can't find there I get at Big Ceramic Supply and what they don't have Seattle Supply usually has even if shipping is a killer.

BTW, that Crocker Museum in CA not Davis.

I have problems reading personal messages on this forum so if you need more info send me an email at sandefur.jim@gmail.com.

Jim
E pur si muove.

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#10 Iforgot

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 12:10 AM

I use Laguna ^5 b-mix, works great.



Darrel
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#11 OffCenter

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 08:15 AM

I use Laguna ^5 b-mix, works great.



Darrel


What kind of wood firing are you doing?!

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#12 AtomicAxe

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 03:58 PM

There are quite a few potters around Tampa up through I-4 locations up to Fort Lauderdale that have wood kilns and if you're lucky ... check out st pete clay company and USF for when they do wood firings ... contact the professors if you need to ... it's a hoot. I won't say anything about getting work IN the kiln ... but occasionally if the pool of volunteers isn't that good ... they will take outside help, especially if you are wanting to learn to fire a wood kiln.

#13 Iforgot

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 08:08 AM


I use Laguna ^5 b-mix, works great.



Darrel


What kind of wood firing are you doing?!

Jim




I fire to cone 8 in a very small wood kiln. it fires in about 4 1/2 to 6 1/2 hours.



Darrel
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#14 OffCenter

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 09:15 AM



I use Laguna ^5 b-mix, works great.



Darrel


What kind of wood firing are you doing?!

Jim



I fire to cone 8 in a very small wood kiln. it fires in about 4 1/2 to 6 1/2 hours.



Darrel


Thanks for the reply. So, you're not really trying to get ash glazing or much flashing. If you were, I think you'd like the B-Mix Woodfire much better than plain B-Mix. To get good glaze and color we hold the kiln at about cone 10-11 for 5 days of constant stoking.

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#15 timbo_heff

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 12:24 PM

To those that wood fire, do you formulate, or tweak commercial, or use commercial clay, out of box? I've read than john B. does.



I get great results with almost all of the Sheffield cone 10 stoneware bodies;
"Wood Light" is like the T3 but has Helmer :
42 is the nice dark Lizella body:
There are also a few white stonewares that flash like crazy 95400 /20231 and Ben's Mix;
"Z' is a Zamek designed body that can be very nice and rich

They are worth trying for sure.

http://www.sheffield...-CLAY-s/422.htm

#16 Iforgot

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 04:49 PM




I use Laguna ^5 b-mix, works great.



Darrel


What kind of wood firing are you doing?!

Jim



I fire to cone 8 in a very small wood kiln. it fires in about 4 1/2 to 6 1/2 hours.



Darrel


Thanks for the reply. So, you're not really trying to get ash glazing or much flashing. If you were, I think you'd like the B-Mix Woodfire much better than plain B-Mix. To get good glaze and color we hold the kiln at about cone 10-11 for 5 days of constant stoking.

Jim




Thank you for the advice! I have found that this kiln gives me tons of ash but not a lot of vibrant flashing. I love the look though. Here is a picture of an urn by Sumi Von Dassow made with ^5 B-Mix fired to ^8 in the same kiln.



Darrel

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Derek VonDrehle

Raku, Pit fired, Majolica, and Stoneware ceramic artisit

#17 OffCenter

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 05:23 PM





I use Laguna ^5 b-mix, works great.



Darrel


What kind of wood firing are you doing?!

Jim



I fire to cone 8 in a very small wood kiln. it fires in about 4 1/2 to 6 1/2 hours.



Darrel


Thanks for the reply. So, you're not really trying to get ash glazing or much flashing. If you were, I think you'd like the B-Mix Woodfire much better than plain B-Mix. To get good glaze and color we hold the kiln at about cone 10-11 for 5 days of constant stoking.

Jim




Thank you for the advice! I have found that this kiln gives me tons of ash but not a lot of vibrant flashing. I love the look though. Here is a picture of an urn by Sumi Von Dassow made with ^5 B-Mix fired to ^8 in the same kiln.



Darrel


For such a short firing that is a lot of color.

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#18 Biglou13

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 06:41 PM

[quote name='OffCenter' date='07 May 2013 - 09:15 AM' timestamp='1367936107' post='34264']
[/quote]

Thanks for the reply. So, you're not really trying to get ash glazing or much flashing. If you were, I think you'd like the B-Mix Woodfire much better than plain B-Mix. To get good glaze and color we hold the kiln at about cone 10-11 for 5 days of constant stoking.

Jim
[/quote]

Regarding multi day firings...... I can understand the legnth of firing for ash deposit. Ash deposit = ash glaze. . But for flashing/ color what is this a function of ? What is going on between clay an wood fire to bring out such spectacular results.??

And what is your opinion on, the addition of pre made ash, to firing?

What fuction does legnth of firing serve?
Caution big brother is watching.
The beige is blinding!!!!!!
The middle of the road is boring

The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination.
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#19 OffCenter

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:14 PM

[quote name='Biglou13' date='08 May 2013 - 07:41 PM' timestamp='1368056509' post='34384']
[quote name='OffCenter' date='07 May 2013 - 09:15 AM' timestamp='1367936107' post='34264']
[/quote]

Thanks for the reply. So, you're not really trying to get ash glazing or much flashing. If you were, I think you'd like the B-Mix Woodfire much better than plain B-Mix. To get good glaze and color we hold the kiln at about cone 10-11 for 5 days of constant stoking.

Jim
[/quote]

Regarding multi day firings...... I can understand the legnth of firing for ash deposit. Ash deposit = ash glaze. . But for flashing/ color what is this a function of ? What is going on between clay an wood fire to bring out such spectacular results.??

And what is your opinion on, the addition of pre made ash, to firing?

What fuction does legnth of firing serve?
[/quote]

As for how stoking time affects flashing, I think of is sorta like burnishing. The flames are constantly hitting the war bringing out color and making more and more contrast with parts farther away from the flame and it is constantly changing. Pushing in the damper a bit makes the flame hit the pot less or slower or in a different way so that by the end of the firing you have some pretty interesting flashing going on, but, yes, the long stocking is mainly for ash. I was surprised at the bit of flashing Darrel gets with his really fast cone 8 firing. There's not much there but there is enough to make the pot he showed interesting. I think a longer firing would bring out more color (and he'd get more color using B-Mix Woodfire instead of B-Mix), but I wasn't expecting any with such a short firing.

In the anagama I fire in the owner (a really great wood-firer, Roger Jamison) shifts a lot of fireplace ash on some of his pots, especially side-fired jars that get a lot of direct flame. I sometimes put an ash paste on some of my pots but usually not enough to do much.

I hope that helps. John B can probably be more helpful because he has been wood-firing a lot longer than me and knows a whole lot of ######.

Jim
E pur si muove.

"But it does move," said Galileo under his breath.

#20 Biglou13

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 04:43 PM

Where can I get feldsspar chunks? Found on Internet, They say its like pea gravel.... With some finer.... Do you guys just hammer it smaller?

I found granite. (Chicken grit)


Anybody else. (John b.). Know the physics or chemistry behind flashing?( Not the other kind of flashing) On clay body.? And why most wadding flashes white?

Thanks for the 411, if all goes well , ill get some pieces in wood firing on 27 th.

Any one have a recipe for wadding that doesn't flash white? Found some 411 but links are dead.
Caution big brother is watching.
The beige is blinding!!!!!!
The middle of the road is boring

The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination.
-Albert Einstein




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