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is gilding / gold leafing food safe ?

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#21 jo4550


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Posted 04 May 2013 - 09:57 PM

thanks for the link Johanna! Posted Image

also, would you recommend a respirator ? I searched for paint respirator on the 3M website ( http://bit.ly/10yLzPU ) but I'm not sure which one to go with...

EDIT: I think I will go for the 3M 6100 half piece mask with the P100 Particulate filter when handling plaster and 6001 Organic Vapor filter when working with luster/china paint

Hi Kennedy
You seem to be on the right track with your choice. Here is an extract from an article I wrote called "Health and Safety and Overglaze (in paticular lustres)" which is reprinted here on my website http://overglaze.dem...rg/?page_id=460

"My method of protection from fumes is as follows. I use a fume booth constructed by my husband together with a respirator while I have developed a method of working that limits my exposure to the hazards involved. I use a resist method whereby I estimate that 90% of my time is spent using lustre resist which is quite inert. The other 10% is the actual application of the lustre, as all the fine lines apart from some gold pen work is achieved by resist. I am confident that I am limiting my exposure to lustre.

As well as this I wear a respirator. It is a Norton brand 7700 series silicone half face mask model with 2 N7500-1 organic vapour cartridges. It is extremely comfortable to wear despite the fact that I wear glasses. These cartridges are not suitable for clay dust etc. For that you need a particulate filter. However it is not enough to just wear the respirator. It must be maintained. When you have finished using it the inside must be wiped and then the whole lot stored in a sealed (clip lock) bag). This extends the life of the cartridges and keeps dust out. The cartridges need to be replaced when fumes can be smelled through the respirator. Norton has recently been taken over by North Safety Products. A web link to view is http://www.westernsa...newnorth1.html"


#22 kennedy james

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 07:22 PM

thanks for the link! tons of useful info in there :)

#23 Debra



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Posted 08 September 2013 - 09:04 PM

Hello!  I've read through this page with interest.  My question is very specific...  I have an old china tea set whose pot has some worn gilding.  I thought that the gilding was put on after the firing, but it sounds like it was fired on, and therefore it would be unwise to attempt any sort of repair.  Is this correct?  Thanks for any advice...

#24 kennedy james

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Posted Yesterday, 01:51 PM

I did my first luster tests a few days ago. I actually fired them twice to retouch them a little... I might fire again because the silver one is not fully covered at the bottom.. or I'll just try to make new tests and learn how to handle lusters more.


the gold is a bit cloudy at the bottom... 




I messed one of my test cups and got luster on the top, I was sure I cleaned everything though, but I guess doing luster on black glaze makes it harder to clean up...


I'm using Duncan lusters and they say to fire at cone 06 to get the luster off, but that didn't work for me, the gold luster only partly disappeared and the black glaze turned bubbly and cloudy :(




any tip on firing off luster without messing the glaze ??

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