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Best Table for the Studio?


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#21 bciskepottery

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 03:04 PM

"I need both a wedging surface and a work surface. I also switch back and forth from red clay to white clay so I need something "washable""

I have separate pieces of 24"x24" plywood (one for white clays, one for red/browns) that I put on top of my wedging table to prevent cross contamination. I also have separate slab mats for white and red/brown -- again, to prevent cross contamination. Washing will remove surface clay . . . but some stain from colorants in the clay inevitably remain.

#22 skopchains

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 09:29 AM


4. Masonite surface glued to plywood backing (I have this on my woodworking workbench I made)


Susanna,

I use TEMPERED masonite, and I hold it down with some sheetrock nails, not glue. That allows easy re-surfacing, the glue would be a real mess.

best,

..............john


Thanks, John! I'll look into the TEMPERED masonite and sheetrock nails.

And I'm loving all the other ideas being thrown around here! You all rock!
Susanna

#23 Ginny C

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Posted 20 October 2012 - 02:17 PM

I built my own with 1 inch plywood for the the top and 2x4 for the legs and frame. I am a short person so i could build it to my height. I use old printers' mats to wedge the clay and then wash those after every project and sponge off the table.


What's a printers' mat??
Thanks!
Ginny C.




#24 bciskepottery

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Posted 20 October 2012 - 03:59 PM


I built my own with 1 inch plywood for the the top and 2x4 for the legs and frame. I am a short person so i could build it to my height. I use old printers' mats to wedge the clay and then wash those after every project and sponge off the table.


What's a printers' mat??
Thanks!
Ginny C.





Printer's litho mat or blanket . . . http://handbuildingt...rface-clay-mat/ Used in the old days when typesetters manually inked.

#25 Ginny C

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 11:34 PM


I need both a wedging surface and a work surface. I also switch back and forth from red clay to white clay so I need something "washable"


i would suggest separate wedging area, work area, and drying area for each color clay, you dont want white work that is pink (hey, you got chocolate in my peanut butter! are you old enough for that?,lol, anyway)

often you still to wedge while other clay is drying, this is why movable drying 'vats' are the way to go, plaster....perfect moment to learn how to pour plaster! it's cake to make,and durable, my vats are at least ten years old

plaster wedging surface too, whatever you were going to wedge on, put a 2x4 frame around the top and pour 3" of plaster in there


I know it's awfully late to respond to this, but can you explain what you mean by vats? In some studios I've seen plaster ovals with a nice depression so really wet slop won't run off. Is that what you mean? How do you make them, since plaster "seeks its own level<' being a liquid at first!??

#26 johnb

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 12:42 AM

Susan, I agree try goodwill or salvation army for a table. I have used plastic table cloths for 20 plus years they usually last for a couple of months and are cheep enough to replace. Depending on the table you can get clips that attach the top to the table just by slipping them on for "Coleman camping supplies found in wall mart, sporting goods suppliers. gander mt. , cabalas, ect.... If that does not fit the bill some scrap pieces of 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 inch plywood in probably 1 in. widths, tuck the table cloth in between and screw to the bottom watch the length of the screw so that it does not come through the top face, eg. 3/4 in. top with a 1/4 in scrap = 1 in. use a 3/4 in. screw. Good luck

jbcpottery


#27 yedrow

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 12:51 AM

I've been using hardiboard for the top of my table for the last few months. It isn't plaster, but it works pretty good.

Joel.




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