Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Ray Bright

Skutt 231-18 two sections?

Recommended Posts

Ray Bright    0

I am about to fire a kiln I bought used for the 1st time. I am testing some glazes and the kiln, and want to use only one ring of a Skutt 231-18. I have no instruction manual, so I assume I just remove the top ring, remove the lid from it, and fire it up? Sounds too easy, am I over-thinking this?

 

Rpost-13873-13492778835_thumb.jpg

post-13873-13492778835_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
neilestrick    1,381

You can do that, but the difference in firing cost would be minimal. If you do it, make sure there's no risk of someone (children) sticking something into the exposed interbox plug while it's firing. And move it away from the wall and get those rugs out of there, too. Nothing flammable with 24 inches!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
neilestrick    1,381

You can do that, but the difference in firing cost would be minimal.

 

Thanks. I was thinking about the cost, and assume it to be 1/2.

 

R

 

 

Only a couple of dollars.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mark C.    1,806

Just leave them together and fire.The cost will not matter much and it will be safer and easier,

My 2 cents

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ray Bright    0

Just leave them together and fire.The cost will not matter much and it will be safer and easier,

My 2 cents

 

 

There is a separate switch to turn the electric on for the top section. Should I leave that off, if I'm keeping the top section on? This is a test firing, I don't have enough material to fill the kilt above the 1st level.

 

R

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bciskepottery    925

For a test firing, you might want to leave both sections on -- that way you'll know if the elements, relays, etc. in both sections work. Stack the wares loosely so some are fired in both sections.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Susa    0

I own this model also. Does anyone know if there was a ring with no elements in it originally? Mine came with a middle ring with no elements in it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dregles    0

I am about to replace the elements in skutt 231-18.  Replacement elements range from $40-200.

 

http://www.seattlepotterysupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SKRP

http://kruegerpottery.com/repair-parts/skutt-repair/skutt-elements/10-sided-kilns/element-for-km1018-ks108-231-18-240v-1ph-top-bottom.html

 

Whats up?  I plan to fire this kiln to cone 10.  Advice please :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well--I would first ask why you're firing to 10 in oxidation, and if you don't have a compelling reason, for the sake of your elements I would consider dropping to six...  That aside, the 49.00 price is for ONE element.  There are four in that kiln, 200.00 is about right for a set of four.  You should check the wiring harness on the inside of the control box before you order and make sure none of the wires there are getting crispy...  If they are, you should replace that at the same time you do the elements.  I think a new harness is between 30-50 USD.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
neilestrick    1,381

You may need a whole new wiring harness, but more likely you'll just need the element feeder wires. Even if all the wires look good, you may need new feeder wires if they are getting short from multiple element changes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mark C.    1,806

I think this kiln is rated to cone 8 tops-it says on the label.

If its eight thats pushing it to fire it to 8- If it says 10 thats aslo pushing it as the elements will wear out sooner

I also think this is a 2.5 inch wall thickness? really not suitable for cone 8 yet alone cone 10.

You can always call skutt and ask them.

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dregles    0

I was planning on putting some hard bricks inside the kiln as furniture and to hold more heat since the kiln has 2.5" bricks.  eh guys?

Also what about these elements on ebay that just say 220V 600W.  They come in all different wattages from 200-5000.  Also I only have top and bottom no middle kiln section.  Seems like bigceramicsstore.com is a rip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
neilestrick    1,381

The price at Big ceramic store is the standard list price. Not a rip at all. I would never buy elements off eBay. Are you looking at the $5.00 Chinese crap? The chance of one of those working properly is one in a million. It's not just about the wattage. It's about the thickness of the wire, the size of the mandrel they were rolled on, the length of the element, and the resistance. And 220 volts doesn't exist in the US. It's either 240 volts or 208 volts, and you have to get the right one. Just pay the $49 per element for the real deal and you'll be good to go.

 

The hard brick will just be more mass for the kin to heat up, wasting energy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mark C.    1,806

I am about to replace the elements in skutt 231-18.  Replacement elements range from $40-200.

 

 

http://www.seattlepotterysupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SKRP

http://kruegerpottery.com/repair-parts/skutt-repair/skutt-elements/10-sided-kilns/element-for-km1018-ks108-231-18-240v-1ph-top-bottom.html

 

Whats up?  I plan to fire this kiln to cone 10.  Advice please :)

I suggest calling skutt on which elements you will need to fire this kiln to cone 10.These may be a different element than the ones you are talking out.-Does the kiln  plate on side say cone 10?

They will give you the specifics and you can buy them where you like (not E-bay as Neil said)

Do not add hard bricks as this is just more themo mass to heat up.

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
oldlady    1,323

the empty middle ring is just to allow a taller piece the room you need to fire it.  you will be heating more space than you need if you leave it in place all the time. your kiln may not go to the top temp if you use the empty ring.  set it aside unless you make very tall stuff or want to bisque a large load.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
neilestrick    1,381

With a 27" tall Skutt kiln, the added 4.5" blank ring limits the max temp to cone 1. With an 18" tall kiln, it may be even lower since the blank section is a larger percentage of the kiln.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dregles    0

Thanks y'all.  I'll probably just buy the official stuff.

 

But thermal mass might be needed to get the kiln to cone 10.  plus it'll soak more and cool slower. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mark C.    1,806

I once had a small skutt and the dead ring slowed down the fire-that was a bisque-I took it out

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dregles    0

Thanks for the information on the center ring.  Are elements labeled center the ones to get for the top of the bottom and the lower half of the top section?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
perkolator    54

Don't separate the kiln for this firing, but you technically could if you want to.  I would consult the Skutt manual and perhaps speak to a Skutt Tech before attempting to fire this way, so you're sure you know what youre doing first.  Manuals can be found on the Skutt website, as with contact info for tech stuff.

 

 

Dregles:  You need to call Skutt and figure out which elements you need.  Depending on the version of kiln you have, there could be 2-3 types of elements that go inside (top/bottom, center, and intermediate element sections), but typically there are just the t/b and center versions - and different versions of those for the voltage/amps you have.  with no blank ring, the kiln will fire faster than with, as there is a higher elements:space ratio and it should struggle less getting there.  sometimes that extra ring will help get a particular piece in, but most of the time you may choose to fire without it. if you plan to fire to midrange and above for most of your firings, then you may want to look into getting the APM elements - thicker gauge wire made from slightly different material, and has a much better thermal output and lifespan.  you pay more for them, but they're pretty much worth it if you can afford the sticker price.  adding bricks to the inside won't help you except to waste energy - adding a fiber blanket to the outside of the kiln will most likely do something though, but probably not enough to bother.  these kilns are pretty efficient on their own these days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×