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problem firing decals using Reusche lead and cadmium free products


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The problem that I'm having is that I cannot seem to get a clean image onto my mug. I use a lead free food safe china paint from reusche called raven black. Decal medium and covercoat was also provided by the same company. I am screen printing with a 230 mesh screen onto decal paper from beldecal. Decals look great when done screen printing. However, after firing the image seems to have a lot of blowouts and cracks, and I'm not sure what part of the process I'm screwing up, or if it's simply the wrong products that I'm using. Essentially what I do is..

Mix enamel powder with decal medium (oil based)

Screen the decal, wait for it to dry.

Apply the covercoat, wait for that to dry.

Apply the decal to the ware, wait for that to dry for twenty four hours.

Fire in the kiln on low for about three hours with the lid cracked, allowing the organic material in the decal to burn off- the decal turns black and eventually goes clear.

Once the images are clear again, close the lid and fire until cone 017 is reached.

Does anyone have experience screening their own decals successfully? I do need to work with food-safe products because my designs contain images that go on the bottom insides of the mug as well.

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  • 4 months later...

DH

 

I was wondering if you have made any progress on this? I was just about to buy the exact same color for silkscreening on decal paper so it would be good to know if you have any more to share on the subject. I was actually going to try the waterbased method that Kevin Petrie describes in his book on ceramic transfer methods, because I don't have facilities at my school to teach students how to use the oil based materials -- not safely anyway. Kevin's method involves using a different kind of decal paper that does not require covercoat, which might perform differently, can't say from experience yet. The main question I have about your results is about the form you were putting the decals on. Is it something you made, or something you bought? If you made it, can you tell me what is the highest cone it went to? And if you bought it, was it from a source that revealed that same information? I think Kevin mentioned in his book that lowfire clays can cause more problems with decals, but I'm not sure if they are even the same problems you are having.

 

--Colby Parsons

 

 

The problem that I'm having is that I cannot seem to get a clean image onto my mug. I use a lead free food safe china paint from reusche called raven black. Decal medium and covercoat was also provided by the same company. I am screen printing with a 230 mesh screen onto decal paper from beldecal. Decals look great when done screen printing. However, after firing the image seems to have a lot of blowouts and cracks, and I'm not sure what part of the process I'm screwing up, or if it's simply the wrong products that I'm using. Essentially what I do is..

 

Mix enamel powder with decal medium (oil based)

Screen the decal, wait for it to dry.

Apply the covercoat, wait for that to dry.

Apply the decal to the ware, wait for that to dry for twenty four hours.

Fire in the kiln on low for about three hours with the lid cracked, allowing the organic material in the decal to burn off- the decal turns black and eventually goes clear.

Once the images are clear again, close the lid and fire until cone 017 is reached.

Does anyone have experience screening their own decals successfully? I do need to work with food-safe products because my designs contain images that go on the bottom insides of the mug as well.

 

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