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Building a Raku Kiln


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I know that the results with Raku are fairly unpredictable.

 

Actually American raku is FAR more controlable than most people think. The "haphazard" concept comes from people who really have not spent all that much time working with the process to learn TO control it. That is because it is so easy to just "have at it" and get pretty "flashy results" without having to really be in much control at all. Many folks don't get beyond this level of understanding, and unfortunately...... then go on to teach it to others from this basic level of understanding.

 

If you want to know about American raku control... look into books and workshops from people like Steven Branfman or Marcia Selsor. I had the pleasure of learing a bit about American raku from Paul Soldner back in the 70's. What he shared was not "haphazard" or unpredictable at all.

 

There are lots of effects that can be done repeatedly and relatively precisely. Back in the 70's when I was teaching at MassArt, I taught a course called "Fire Painted Clay", one component of which was utilizing raku as a finishing process. It involved using very tightly controlled American raku process....literally being able to "paint with fire".

 

And yes, particular combustibles do have a tendency to produce certain types of effects. You can use this as a part of learning control of the process. And as I say time and again..... test, test, test.

 

best,

 

................john

 

I fired my first raku with Paul Soldner back in 1967 in the snow!

Marcia

 

 

 

 

 

Hey, my topic still lives. That's good, because I still need to post photos of my intake, to see if there are any improvements anyone can suggest.

 

I've actually been looking forward to doing another firing here soon. I've been waiting on some glazes I ordered, so I've just been twiddling my thumbs. It's a shame, because the weather here is supposed to be above average, which would make the firing slightly more comfortable for me.

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  • 7 years later...
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@Brooke I'm guessing the torch is actually 500 000 BTUs.  The one I use is only 100 000 and it works well.

What did you use for insulation on your kiln?  I assuming ceramic fiber blanket, but what weight?

My big problem initially was that my ports were too small.  Not enough air was getting in and out, so I wasn't getting good combustion, and therefore less heat. 

If you are having a lot of flames come out of the top, then this could be the issue.   

When I first started firing, I had the torch too close to the intake, and like I said, too small of openings as well.  So I definitely wasn't getting enough oxygen in for proper combustion to happen.  The end of the burner should be three to four inches away, so that air can get in with the flame.   Also, don't think that cranking up the burner is always the answer.  I rarely open the valve on my burner all the way.  Generally all that does is put in more gas, that doesn't get used in the kiln, and gets those flames shooting out the top (Which is extremely cool, but unnecessary, and it worries the neighbors).

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