ayjay Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 The group I pot with had a Raku session yesterday; a couple of years ago at one of these sessions I made a small item glazed with the a copper red glaze which has lived on a North facing windowsill ever since, the side facing the window has now faded to brown and white, the other side is not as red it was either. I have a bowl which I like from yesterdays session in the same Copper Red glaze which I would like to keep from fading, is there anything that can be applied which will help or must it be kept out of the light? The first two pics are the older piece, the same glaze as the newer bowl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campbell Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 These glazes need to be kept out of direct sunlight. I have a bowl made the same day as one I gave to a friend. She keeps hers in the sun and it is now just a blue bowl while mine still has copper flashing after more than 10 years. If you are willing to take the chance of loosing the older bowl you can try re-firing it in the first kiln load of raku. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Thanks Chris, I hadn't thought of re-firing, so that could be an option for next years session. the faded item has never been in the sun, just a North facing window. I'll keep the new bowl out of any direct light though and see if that helps, (or maybe just make a new one every year). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macdoodle Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 i have also heard rumor that a welding torch will bring the color back, but have not seen the results myself. I'd worry about heating the object too fast with a torch. Might be worth an experiment.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 You can try to keep air off from oxidizing the surface by coating it with a clear spry finish-maybe a matt one-I would try this on a test piece first.My 35 year old raku still has some luster out of sun. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campbell Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I can tell you from sad experience that the torch concentrates the heat too much and kaboom!!! You can use it right after when the pot is still hot, but not so much when it has cooled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilyT Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I can tell you from sad experience that the torch concentrates the heat too much and kaboom!!! You can use it right after when the pot is still hot, but not so much when it has cooled. I'd heard that there was some sort of clear shiny floor finish that was good for preserving reduction surfaces, but unfortunately I've forgotten the exact name of it :-(, perhaps you could google it ?(it might be even in this forum, but I can't seem to use the search box here precisely enough) BTW, I'm curious as to how people might use torches to improve reduction? In glass, you can spray a metal (tin) on the hot surface or even just use the colored glass with the metal embedded and heat it in a reduction flame to get the reduction color. In glass, you can program your kiln to reheat your piece to annealing temperature (where the glass goes through it's phase change) and then continue working on it. Perhaps if you wanted to just change the surface of your glaze, you only need to slowly get the whole piece above the cristabolite transition to reduce risk of kaboom, rather than heating everything all the way to raku temp again. Regards, -Lily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilyT Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Ayjay, The finish I was thinking of is Jasco Tile Sealer, but there's an article on this forum saying it seems to not be made any more :-(. Perhaps someone else knows about it or an alternative? http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/topic/83-alternative-to-jasco-tile-sealer-for-sealing-raku/ Regards, Lily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idaho Potter Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I Googled Jasco and found the entry on Jasco that was originally on CAD. It has cleverly moved itself onto the discussion page--title Alternative to Jasco sealer for sealing Raku (or something like that--you'd think I could remember six words for two minutes--sheesh!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Future Floor wax, thin coat. Also, bowling pin wax and a variety of other sealers. Google Charlie and Linda Riggs to see what they recommend for finishes on raku. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 I am on the road right now and can 't cut and paste from my iPad. In another thread toad re:Jasco sealer, someone posted an old post from Clayart by me regarding how to protect a raku glaze from reoxidizing. I use an acrylic sealer with UV protection. I had pieces outside in Montana for 8 Years and the part covered with the acrylic sealer did not change. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macdoodle Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 Sorry, Marcia - I posted the name attached to give the author credit, but didn't even read who it was! Multi tasking isn't always all it's cracked up to be.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted August 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 So many points to ponder and answer, so in no particular order:- I've googled and read the first two pages worth of google links re the Riggs and am none the wiser, I can see no mention of post production polishing/varnishing anywhere - do they have their own website? An acrylic sealer with UV protection is available for varnishing artworks, sold by Windsor and Newton - is that the sort of thing I should be looking at? Jasco tile sealer? - is this intended for sealing stone floor tiles, i.e slate, limestone etc.? If so I know we have similar products in the UK. I don't have a welding torch but I am more than capable of blowing things up with a simple blowtorch - I'll pass on that one for now. Maybe just some factor 50 sunblock would work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 In the other post the person said the old Jasco is no llonger available. I would recommend the UV protection acrylic medium or spray. I used it and my test was 8 years in Montana sun and no reoxidizing. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 Sorry, Marcia - I posted the name attached to give the author credit, but didn't even read who it was! Multi tasking isn't always all it's cracked up to be.... That's ok...my name was included in the paste. same topic different thread. marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted August 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 I went to my local art shop and all that was available there was a (Windsor & Newton) UV resistant Artists Acrylic Varnish, I bought some of that and applied it to one half of another piece made last weekend and it almost instantly oxidised to blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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