Mudslayer Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 hi, I am currently using Standard 266, has been a long long time since I used it, and wanted to know if anyone has any suggestions on glazes that will look great on this color. I know from a different thread that some say it "bloats" at ^6, but I don't know what that means, and as I am planning on firing to 6 because I want it black, can someone tell me what the def is of Bloat. Firing at cone 5 it comes out a deep dark brown, but not black. Suggestions would be wonderful.. especially if you know of a glaze that will work to leave it the color it fires to but shiny, because clear does not work on this clay. thanks so much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawPots Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 hi, I am currently using Standard 266, has been a long long time since I used it, and wanted to know if anyone has any suggestions on glazes that will look great on this color. I know from a different thread that some say it "bloats" at ^6, but I don't know what that means, and as I am planning on firing to 6 because I want it black, can someone tell me what the def is of Bloat. Firing at cone 5 it comes out a deep dark brown, but not black. Suggestions would be wonderful.. especially if you know of a glaze that will work to leave it the color it fires to but shiny, because clear does not work on this clay. thanks so much! I use this clay by itself, and with little loafers (highwater) for agateware at my community center - fired to cone six. I have dipped and sprayed a glaze called "satin white" - the recipe is on fetish ghost's website (Mooncrater white). Sprayed thin, it makes a clear/white that can look like clouds on a dark brown clay. Dipped (but still thin) it is a contrasting white with black breaking texture. With the clear in mastering cone six glazes, it can be a dark brown-to-black color, and I've done that with agateware in my home kiln. Our community center clear isnt as good, turning a mottled grey/brown. Another glaze that I've seen to great effect at the community center is "Alfred blue" - but I don't have the recipe. It becomes a hare's fur like verigated blue glaze. Another possibility, particularly with iron oxide decoration underneath, is a celdon - which will go dark green over the black clay. Or, if you can, polish the surface of your piece with plastic film and fire it up to maturity - this clay's natural look is really nice. Good luck - I'll try to post some pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Bloating occurs when gases in the clay body are trapped, causing a gas bulge or gas bubble in the ware. Gases can get trapped if the clay body vitrifies before all the gases are burned off; Standard 266 is a cone 4 - 6 clay body that has an absorbency rate of 1.4% at cone 6 -- pretty close to vitrification. In a glaze firing, the gases may not be able to escape the glaze covering the ware; sometimes the glaze heals over before the gases are completely burned out. One cause of bloating is over-firing. I use Standard 266; at home, where my kiln fires a "hot" cone 6, I get bloating. At the studio I sometimes fire at, the kilns fire a "cool" cone 6 and I get no bloating. A second cause of bloating is firing too fast. You can try firing to cone 5 and add a hold at the end that will take the temperature up to closer to cone 6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 I have never been able to fire this clay to cone 6. Bloats every time. Many glazes go a little funky on it, too. It's just really high in iron. We tend to use it bare, or just put a white liner glaze in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudslayer Posted June 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 I use commercial glazes, don't mix my own. So that being the case, are there any glazes out there that would look good, on pieces carved, and non carved? I am making yarn bowls and big mugs, don't want to really only use a whitish color I don't think, my clay place suggests PC Blue Rutile and Midnite Blue. It was very busy in there that day, so did not get a chance to find out if any of the other PC's or Coyote's would be good. I know that the Blues have a lot of iron in them, and they look fabulous on Speckled Tan, Hazelnut, and of course Buff and White, but really want a glaze that will enhance the deep brown/black, sort of bring out that, and yet, still see other colors throughout the piece. Make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 Test, test, test. See if you can buy some little 4oz samples of the glazes. Because the 266 is so dark, glazes look radically different on it than on white clay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucille Oka Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 I use commercial glazes, don't mix my own. So that being the case, are there any glazes out there that would look good, on pieces carved, and non carved? I am making yarn bowls and big mugs, don't want to really only use a whitish color I don't think, my clay place suggests PC Blue Rutile and Midnite Blue. It was very busy in there that day, so did not get a chance to find out if any of the other PC's or Coyote's would be good. I know that the Blues have a lot of iron in them, and they look fabulous on Speckled Tan, Hazelnut, and of course Buff and White, but really want a glaze that will enhance the deep brown/black, sort of bring out that, and yet, still see other colors throughout the piece. Make sense? You do know that Standard has some beautiful glazes also? They are dry and must be mixed and they tell you how. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudslayer Posted June 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Yes, i did find out about Standard glazes, but I have tried several times to mix my own, and have had no success. I had total knee replacement a couple of years ago, and it did not go well, so my pottery techniques have had to evolve in order for me to still do it. I throw standing up, I glaze standing up, but can only do it for a set amount of time, and mixing glazes takes longer than I can do it, sitting down I would have to bend over to mix, and that is terribly uncomfortable, as my lower back has suffered due to the surgery. SOO, I have to find glazes that are already mixed and ready to go, and do a few pots at a time. I wish I could mix my own, it would save me money, but until my body settles down and stops this pain, I am doing what I can, how I can do it. I emailed Standard to find out if they knew of any glazes besides their own that would work with this clay body, and they have sent the question to their technical department, so hopefully I will get an answer soon. I realize that 266 is high in iron, but I don't exactly understand what iron in clay does to any glaze that has iron in it, or any that does not. If I hear back from them, will let everyone know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBCurley Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I've done this clay body in a reduction before and got literally a pewter color for the body. It was weird...kinda neat for sculptural stuff though. Not sure how I feel about it being food safe even on the surfaces that were glazed though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I've done this clay body in a reduction before and got literally a pewter color for the body. It was weird...kinda neat for sculptural stuff though. Not sure how I feel about it being food safe even on the surfaces that were glazed though. That clay is way too high in iron for reduction firing. I'm surprised it survived at all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudslayer Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 :D I finally decided to take one of the small cups I threw with the Standard 266 and glaze it with several different colors. Here is the picture and this is what I used where. The handle down the middle is Potters Choice Seaweed, Down the sides of the handle is Olive Speckle, Bottom and bottom outside (without texture and with texture) I used Indigo Float, the top inside and out, to compare texture surface with no texture I used Ancient Jasper. I fired a fast fire, cone 5, it took 5 1/2 hours. I am ecstatic with the outcome. My favorite of these colors is the Indigo Float, followed by the Ancient Jasper, next is Seaweed and last is Speckled Olive. The bottom I left raw to see how dark the clay got. I am going to glaze some new pots that are ready Deep Firebrick, Iron Lustre, and Blue Midnite, then going to try the New color which is the Art Deco Green. Will post when those are complete. Let me know what you think of these colors on this dark clay... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBCurley Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I've done this clay body in a reduction before and got literally a pewter color for the body. It was weird...kinda neat for sculptural stuff though. Not sure how I feel about it being food safe even on the surfaces that were glazed though. That clay is way too high in iron for reduction firing. I'm surprised it survived at all! Well, in our defense, we were playing. people in my school don't seem terribly interested in learning reduction. I pretty much can snag enough kiln room to play anytime someone does reduction. I don't think I'm going to do it again due to the glazed going nuts, but it was one of those 'Hm, weird!' Moments ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crbest22 Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 I use commercial glazes, don't mix my own. So that being the case, are there any glazes out there that would look good, on pieces carved, and non carved? I am making yarn bowls and big mugs, don't want to really only use a whitish color I don't think, my clay place suggests PC Blue Rutile and Midnite Blue. It was very busy in there that day, so did not get a chance to find out if any of the other PC's or Coyote's would be good. I know that the Blues have a lot of iron in them, and they look fabulous on Speckled Tan, Hazelnut, and of course Buff and White, but really want a glaze that will enhance the deep brown/black, sort of bring out that, and yet, still see other colors throughout the piece. Make sense? I have just started using #266 and my first firing at Cone 5 +20 degrees yielded great results. I use Amaco Potters Choice and the deep fire brick is gorgeous on this clay as is the indigo float. I put seaweed over some of the firebrick and that created a great result as well. Would love to hear about others' experiences with commercial glazes on #266. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carr pottery Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 i am looking for a clear zinc free glaze to use on Standard 266. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.