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As a spin off from 'Not using kiln wash', how about telling your best way to clean runs and drips?

 

I don't use wash and after 6 years, had the first mess recently, had gotten complacent, I guess and used a new glaze combo without enough protection. The entire foot of the piece was broken off the bottle and fused to the shelf. I ended us with a layer of shelf breaking out through my lack of skill in dealing with the issue.

 

How to do a better job?

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As a spin off from 'Not using kiln wash', how about telling your best way to clean runs and drips?

 

I don't use wash and after 6 years, had the first mess recently, had gotten complacent, I guess and used a new glaze combo without enough protection. The entire foot of the piece was broken off the bottle and fused to the shelf. I ended us with a layer of shelf breaking out through my lack of skill in dealing with the issue.

 

How to do a better job?

 

 

Some years ago I took advantage of a local college's drop-in workshops and happened to be there when the technician was emptying the kiln after a glaze firing. He was very cross. In fact, he was swearingly cross! One of the pieces had evidently had a very thick layer(s) of glaze which had run off and firmly adhered everything to the shelf. I watched fascinated as he patiently and very delicately chipped away at the base with what looked like a screwdriver, but was it turned out, a fine chisel. It took ages, but he managed to free the offending piece with minimal damage to both it and the shelf.

 

I have to say, I would've been tempted to heavy-hand the pot at least, and was most impressed with his gentle persistance which paid off with a relatively undamaged shelf and a retrievable piece of work

 

I don't expect this helps much, but your post reminded me how important patience is in making good pots - thank you

 

Christine

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As a spin off from 'Not using kiln wash', how about telling your best way to clean runs and drips?

 

I don't use wash and after 6 years, had the first mess recently, had gotten complacent, I guess and used a new glaze combo without enough protection. The entire foot of the piece was broken off the bottle and fused to the shelf. I ended us with a layer of shelf breaking out through my lack of skill in dealing with the issue.

 

How to do a better job?

 

 

 

 

Recently, my husband needed something from me, and came into the barn while I was trying to clean my shelves. Gave me this look of "you're doing that wrong", took the shelf and came back about ten minutes later - with it perfectly bare. No glaze, no kiln wash, and no chunks out the shelf. I, of course, took full advantage, and begged for him to do the rest. Less than 40 minutes later, every shelf I own was clean! He had taken the shelves out to his workshop, where he used an air grinder/compressor and a 'flex disc 36 grit'. Its designed to be used on Auto Body work. If you already have an air compressor for spraying or such, the air grinder and the flex discs are fairly inexpensive. (Please use safety gear!)

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An angle grinder is the best tool I've ever used to clean shelves completely and quickly but I also know two potters who have suffered serious hand injuries using angle grinders.

 

Jim

 

 

This the same tool I use-I have a 7 inch variable speed Milwaukee sander/grinder combo tool.A 4 inch grinder will work as well and is easier to control. I use one for touch up work.

I have used a right angle grinder for over 35 years, You as noted above need to be highly careful with this tool as it as with other power tools can hurt you.

If you are not familiar with grinders I suggest you do not use one and get a hand rubbing stone sold at any of the online ceramics stores-usually made from silicone carbide with ared handle-its harder work but safer.

If you use a wash that formulated to not stick well you are better off-I posted just such a wash recipe a few months ago on a kiln washing thread here.

Mark

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