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Darcy Kane

wimpy kiln sitter

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So I did my first bisque fire yesterday and everything went fine overall. However, my witness cone says that we didn't reach temp. When I removed the kiln sitter cone it wasn't in a deep "U" but more gently dipped. Everything is bisqued well enough (I bisque to cone 010, fire to cone 10) but next weekend when I do my first glaze firing I don't want to risk an under firing. This was my first firing with a second hand kiln, in great shape, that does not have a computer. Do I need to adjust my kiln sitter, which I would not want to do if not necessary, or do I just go up a cone temp in my kiln sitter?

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The sitter needs some adjustment at bisque temp. But you can and maybe should fire that cone 10 glaze with a full size cone you can see thru the spyplug so you get it right.

Mark

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The sitter needs some adjustment at bisque temp. But you can and maybe should fire that cone 10 glaze with a full size cone you can see thru the spyplug so you get it right.

Mark

 

Yep, I agree, but how do I override the kiln sitter shut off if I don't use a cone 11 mini cone in the cone sitter? I had a full size 010 in view of the peep hole when I did the bisque, which is how I knew it didn't fire to temp. The problem is, the kiln sitter shut off when it thought it was time. Can I over ride the kiln sitter?

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My kiln 'plugs in' through the kiln sitter and it turns the kiln off by killing the electricity to the electronic gas valve (obviously, a gas kiln). I quit using the kiln sitter a long time ago, as it wasn't getting me anywhere near full temps. I just plug the kiln directly into the wall. I'm not sure they are all the same type of setup.

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So I did my first bisque fire yesterday and everything went fine overall. However, my witness cone says that we didn't reach temp. When I removed the kiln sitter cone it wasn't in a deep "U" but more gently dipped. Everything is bisqued well enough (I bisque to cone 010, fire to cone 10) but next weekend when I do my first glaze firing I don't want to risk an under firing. This was my first firing with a second hand kiln, in great shape, that does not have a computer. Do I need to adjust my kiln sitter, which I would not want to do if not necessary, or do I just go up a cone temp in my kiln sitter?

You need to adjust the kiln setter by adjusting the weight which frequently slips over time. You should have a little disc that slides over the thermocouple and the cone rests. that is the usual way to adjust. Another way is lift the drop weight up, set a cone and have the hook positioned about 1/8-1/16 over the weight. There is a set screw on the weight lever that allows it to be re-positioned. Loosen that and slide the weight to the right position. Tighten the set screw.

This will require the cone to melt more before dropping the weight to shut off the kiln.

 

Marcia

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If its a Dawson kiln setter-I just checked mine to see if it did these things-You can you can put a high cone in setter which in guess work and I suggest you do not or over ride it by lifting the swinging lever up and pushing the on button thru the hole in lever to on then gently swing the lever down(do not drop) and kiln will fire until you push lever in to cut the switch.( this is the same motion as when the lever swings down and cuts kiln off)

Go practice this before firing with kiln switch's off-remember its up to you to turn kiln off as its a runaway till you do.

Old school Kiln setters like ours work better at lower temps I feel. Get ahold of a sitter instructions and dial in the bisque temps next bisque.

Also small cones are not as good at cone 10 as large ones you can see-thats best as it shows you what is really going on

Remember I'm an old school guy and this is old school advice

If your sitter is another brand you will have to figure that out as I'm only have Dawson experience

I hope this is all clear? Is this kiln a 3 inch wall or less?a skutt or other brand?

Mark

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The kiln is a Skutt 1027. I found the info on how to adjust the sitter but unfortunately I don't have the disk (bought the kiln second hand) so I will have to mess with the front plate. I started firing years ago in kilns that didn't have a sitter and we had to watch the cones and shut it off ourselves. I'm ok with that but I'd still like the safety backup of the kiln sitter. I guess I just need to man up and figure out how to adjust it :) Thanks all for your help.

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The kiln is a Skutt 1027. I found the info on how to adjust the sitter but unfortunately I don't have the disk (bought the kiln second hand) so I will have to mess with the front plate. I started firing years ago in kilns that didn't have a sitter and we had to watch the cones and shut it off ourselves. I'm ok with that but I'd still like the safety backup of the kiln sitter. I guess I just need to man up and figure out how to adjust it smile.gif Thanks all for your help.

 

 

 

The 'disk' or Kilnsitter Firing Gauge is available from ceramics suppliers it costs about $5.00. 'Messing with the front plate' is not a good idea without the gauge, please don't 'mess with it' get a gauge.

I don't know where you are located but Ceramic Supply of New York and New Jersey has them available it is located on page 59 of their catalog the link is below it is a large pdf file but you can save it for future references for supplies.

http://www.7ceramic.com/Ceramic%20Supply%20Catalog.pdf

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The kiln is a Skutt 1027. I found the info on how to adjust the sitter but unfortunately I don't have the disk (bought the kiln second hand) so I will have to mess with the front plate. I started firing years ago in kilns that didn't have a sitter and we had to watch the cones and shut it off ourselves. I'm ok with that but I'd still like the safety backup of the kiln sitter. I guess I just need to man up and figure out how to adjust it smile.gif Thanks all for your help.

 

 

 

The 'disk' or Kilnsitter Firing Gauge is available from ceramics suppliers it costs about $5.00. 'Messing with the front plate' is not a good idea without the gauge, please don't 'mess with it' get a gauge.

I don't know where you are located but Ceramic Supply of New York and New Jersey has them available it is located on page 59 of their catalog the link is below it is a large pdf file but you can save it for future references for supplies.

http://www.7ceramic....y%20Catalog.pdf

 

 

I ordered a gauge, thanks.

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Darsi

You do not need a man for this -Have them ship you the instructions with that disc and set it up for your bisque temp next time and experiment with the cone 10 temps as well.I will stick to my statement on cone 10 is better with a large cones than the sitter at least till you have some cones placed around to se what you have at shut off

Still use large cones for the glaze fire with your eye until you get this dialed.

I have a skutt 1027s as well. Does your's have the shutoff timer as well ??

Mine is cone 8 max.

Mark

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Darsi

You do not need a man for this -Have them ship you the instructions with that disc and set it up for your bisque temp next time and experiment with the cone 10 temps as well.I will stick to my statement on cone 10 is better with a large cones than the sitter at least till you have some cones placed around to se what you have at shut off

Still use large cones for the glaze fire with your eye until you get this dialed.

I have a skutt 1027s as well. Does your's have the shutoff timer as well ??

Mine is cone 8 max.

Mark

 

 

 

Thanks Mark, will do with the cones. Also, I meant "man up" in the euphemistic way. My husband insists that I learn how to operate my own equipment (and both fire extinguishers). I found the directions to go with the disc on line and I agree, I doubt the 1027 reaches cone 10 even as advertised, but I'll see.

 

 

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So I did my first bisque fire yesterday and everything went fine overall. However, my witness cone says that we didn't reach temp. When I removed the kiln sitter cone it wasn't in a deep "U" but more gently dipped. Everything is bisqued well enough (I bisque to cone 010, fire to cone 10) but next weekend when I do my first glaze firing I don't want to risk an under firing. This was my first firing with a second hand kiln, in great shape, that does not have a computer. Do I need to adjust my kiln sitter, which I would not want to do if not necessary, or do I just go up a cone temp in my kiln sitter?

 

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Consider getting a pyrometer. I've had element connector problems with my old kiln and, through use of the pyrometer, have learned that the lowest shelf is cooler than the ones above it and have learned to change the loading and place certain pieces with certain glazes on the shelves in anticipation of this.

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When you get the disc you will still need to adjust the weight in the shut off lever so that the position of the hook is correct. You'll need a tiny screwdriver to adjust the weight.

These weights slip over time. That is why your kiln is shutting off with the cone barely melted.

 

 

Marcia

 

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The disc is a calibration tool for setting the height of the weight that the claw rests against. If the weight is too low, the kiln shuts off too soon. Too high and it will overfire. Even using the calibration disc, there is room for inaccuracy. I would go ahead and raise the weight up a tiny bit, like 1/32 inch and fire again.

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