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Any one used the above glaze. It has an addition of  10 rutile in it which seems a lot.

Custer Feld   43

Gerstley bor 18

Kaolin  5

Whiting          2

Dolomite.     6

Silica.          18

Zinc oxide.    8

+ Rutile 10

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Nome; gotta get me some dolomite.

I'm using two BVG recipes that spec 6.0 rutile ('specially like the "Teal Blue"); one of the many potters I'd like to meet some day! Ever see the video clip of him on the news? ...ah, there it is, so young!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NNKuPacNH4 

 

 

BVG Teal Blue.JPG

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Nice video, @Hulk ! Dang, why did I never think of using a ladle to pour glaze inside vessels? It can hang out in the bucket, too, not like my dipping mug that accrues drippy rings on a nearby bench. Never too old to learn!

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@HulkThe 70's and 80's were a good time to establish a studio. Establishing a pottery today is a bit more...cumbersome.

I've always liked Bill van Gilder but never took the time to appreciate the man better so thanks for the video. The influence of Michael Cardew explains more why I like his style. I wonder if he spent any time with Ray Finch in Winchcombe.

@Babs10% rutile does seem like a lot. I have a bit of a love-hate relationship wiht rutile/titanium. As you probably are already aware differences in cooling cycles will drastically affect results with rutile/titanium. The most I've seen used in a shop glaze is 6%. The most I've used is closer to 4 in oxidation.

That 2% whiting sticks out as almost irrelevant as well. The glaze looks well enough supplied with calcium without it.

This is for an electric kiln? I ask because from what I understand zinc is wasted in reduction.

*I thought i better try to find the information on zinc again.

This clayarts discussion gets into into it a bit. Suffice to "...say that zinc-containing glazes may be quite variable and unpredictable in reduction depending on how carefully you duplicate conditions firing to firing and how uniform the interior of your kiln is." John Hesselberth

Edited by C.Banks

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Thanks. John Britt olays around with this too and goes as far as 14 Rutile which changes it to v matte mustard by the looks. Any way I'll give it a whirkml. Test tile image is enticing but had read 5% is about as high as it should need.

Used brown rutile flour so iron might be higher.

Finicky and it's out here...

Thanks for the links.  Addictive stuff indeed.

Using it on an iron clay is my thoughts but wilk test on a white coloured as well.

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Babs, I altered the recipe to a lower expansion and tried it with 5 rutile and 8 rutile. The test bowl in the image below has the 8 rutile as does the tile on the right, 5 rutile with the tile on the left.  Mottled off white with 5 rutile, mauve / pink / off white with 8 rutile, orange over my white liner glaze. (rim on test bowl) I didn't go any thing further than the test tiles with the glaze. My altered recipe below if you want it.

Alabama Rain ^6 Altered Lower COE version

Custer Feldspar 21.10

Silica 23.00

Gerstley Borate 18.60

Zinc Oxide 7.40

Dolomite 6.00 

EP Kaolin 4.70

Australian Spodumene 19.10

total 99.9

Rutile 5-8

IMG_2694.jpg.1b25efb62e9c2aad464ee1511767db18.jpg

 

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Quite delicious Min and so generous.

Will mix a batch of your today and test both. My test batch has 10 Rutile but sits unused . I'll need mathematician Rockhopper to help as gungho mood and wanting to get on, which usually means 29 big steps backwards, I mixed a bigger than test quantity yesterday....

I'd like to fire it to cone 4-5 as my clay gets pretty dark above 5 which will look ok with this glaze.

My kiln, electric, cools slowly which may matte the glaze out, not what I am looking for.

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Kinda looks like Lynette's opal, love that look.  Here's one of mine with Lynette's opal, which has 8 rutile.  These clearish rutile glazes look dyn-o-mite on dark clay bodies, not as special on porcelain (a lot more subtle).  This was slow cooled, did not matte up.  The bottom half is a matte black glaze and it did matte up.

https://glazy.org/recipes/11439

IMG_20190225_214154_crop_604x604.jpg

Edited by liambesaw

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Beautiful mug Liam ! I like the contrasting glazes. I'm going for a bleed of Alab. R into a black matte and an Alabama R over red clay which has been white slipped in areas. So if Alab is too matte I wont get the bleed I guess.

One has to be hungry for what the other has got...

We'll see ..the kiln has last laugh always...

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From John Britt's description, Alabama rain is a semi-satin, so to me that sounds like a slow cooling satin.  Not sure you'll get any movement over a matte, but you should definitely try!  Sometimes rutile does some nutty stuff over a matte, I love it!

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My cone 10(R) (and Raku) experience with rutile in many glazes is that the concentration added to the "base"(a.k.a. starting recipe) glaze will produce color range from a faint yellow tinge at low (~1 wt%) to a bright orange at high levels (~16%).  I have no data at cone 6(O). 

The best way I have found to fine out is to take the starting glaze and use a line blend from no rutile to a level beyond my expectation and see what happens. At cone 6, I would expect at some level the rutile will not completely enter the melt and the result will be matte from the excess rutile.  That level was above the 16% in the C. F. Binns' glaze I tested and around the 16% level in the shino glaze tested; all at cone 10(R).  

Several of my standard cone 10 glazes that use rutile have significantly varying outcomes resulting from specific the application details, the cooling rate, surrounding glazes on the piece, and occasionally due to what I had for breakfast the day after I applied the glaze.  The variations are why I use the glaze; I expect them to be unpredictable (within limits).  
 

LT

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1 hour ago, Babs said:

Any diff. from dark and light rutile flour?

Yes.  Dark will tend to end up darker, light can be pretty subtle.  Also a difference between milled and lower mesh versions.  Milled tends to be very even in distribution (325 mesh), the powdered kinds (higher mesh, 100-120) give more mottled, and granular even more random.

The joys of rutile!

 

The rutile in the picture above is milled light rutile

Edited by liambesaw

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Dark milled rutile is the un-calcined version of light milled rutile. Even though it has a low loss on ignition some people feel it's enough to add glaze imperfections, like pinholes, to the glaze. Since the Alabama Rain  contains a fair wack of rutile I would go with the light milled rutile. (that's what I used in my test glaze above) 

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12 hours ago, Hulk said:

Nome; gotta get me some dolomite.

I'm using two BVG recipes that spec 6.0 rutile ('specially like the "Teal Blue"); one of the many potters I'd like to meet some day! Ever see the video clip of him on the news? ...ah, there it is, so young!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NNKuPacNH4 

 

 

BVG Teal Blue.JPG

I took a 3 day workshop with Bill Van Gilder 2 years ago.  He really is a very good teacher, excellent at explaining step by step, and loves what he does!

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17 hours ago, Babs said:

Any one used the above glaze. It has an addition of  10 rutile in it which seems a lot.

Custer Feld   43

Gerstley bor 18

Kaolin  5

Whiting          2

Dolomite.     6

Silica.          18

Zinc oxide.    8

+ Rutile 10

I have been using a version of this (it's called Soft Dove Gray) or Alabama Rain.  Cone 6, on porcelain and dark stoneware.  I like it.  And yes, it has 10.0 rutile.  Should I be aware of problems?

 

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@Roberta12Ypu'd lnow ny now if so :-)))

Saw that glaze.

@Min maybe I'll calcine next lot. Have a lot of dark , no light at mo.

Also got a garbage bin of rutile sand. It hasbeen extracted . Also ilmenite sand , zirconium sand  any uses dpring to mind .

Live near min oil sand beaches. Used to be a little extracting plant there. Knew the owner.

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