Grace london Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Hello all, Just inherited a 13litre tub of clear earthenware glaze (duncan). I'm not a studio potter, but a sculptor (ceramic). I'm dreaming of making lots of new glazes from this tub. So I'm looking for a list of additives ie. Silicon carbide to make it foam and thicken, Zirconium oxide to whiten, Tin to blush. I'll be adding oxides and stains. But I want more info on new weird behaving ingredients to test. Any other ideas folks? Thank you all for your expertise, your feedback has helped me learn so much : ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 A colleague uses a clear earthenware (aka low-fire) glaze as his base glaze for all of his cone 10 reduction work. He has added the following oxides in various combinations without any problems (other than application issues): iron oxides, cobalt carbonate, copper carbonates, rutile, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, tin oxide, Zircopax. Silicon carbide has not been tried. In my work (cone 10 reduction), I have added dry raw clay lumps, crushed bisque, pine needles, and other 'found objects' to a several glazes to create interesting surface effects on sculptural items. Some additives were useful, some not. Make trial items to see what the range of effects will be prior to investing time and emotional effort into a major item. LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Magnesium carbonate might be fun, I don't know what cone it needs to do the crawling/beading but it looks cool. Search "John's beads glaze" to see a recipe by John britt and some neat pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinbucket Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 2-3% lithium carbonate, pearl ash, soda ash, or borax can flux the glaze more (increase melting) and may improve the color response. If you don't seive the glaze after you add the material (just blend well) then you will be left with some crystals which will create some localized fluxing. I would not recommend any of this if you were making functional pots. I understand calculating percentage may be a little complicated since you are starting with a wet glaze. You can either add x dry to a cup of glaze, test, then adjust or calculate the amount of dry material in x amount of wet glaze by measuring the specific gravity. If you look at recipes for texture/sculpture/special effects glazes you will notice trends in the materials used and amounts. This will give you a starting point if you are looking for a particular effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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