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Not easy to do without completely redesigning the glaze. I approach this of course with more of a focus on making a food safe/stable glaze

If you are making purely decorative objects I would try decreasing out your fluxes/feldpars in 5% increments, and increasing your silica in likewise 5% increments. Less flux and more glass will mean a more underfired glaze, which will give you a matte surface, but it may have a slew of other issues. You can also try increasing you clay content in maybe 2-4% increments. Try tests out to +/- 20%; this will give you 4 or more tests which should provide you the "matteness" you want.

It would be much better and easier to find a stable matte glaze recipe for the cone you are firing to, and adding colorants to achieve the look you want. Tony Hansen has some great recipes for Matte glazes which dont cutlery mark, or craze....hard to do in a matte glaze.

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@Down to Earth Pottery, would you elaborate on what it is you are looking for? Do you use commercial glazes or make your own, functional glaze or for decorative use only or any other info you can add.

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My best thought is to learn basic Stull and UMF. You can go to Glazy and find recipes that may fit your need and use or modify them as necessary. Adjusting glazes is really fairly easy especially for texture as long as you develop a true matte as opposed to an underfired glaze that appears matte.

we have started to do simple beginning glaze basics for our studio members and for those new to clay.  You  may find this interesting. Our hopes are to expand upon the very basics of this over time so those interested can solve these issues for themselves.

finally there are many mattes on glazy, one of them is Marcias Silky True matte and we have already sequenced that from dry to glossy by adding silica. The glaze has a durable flux ratio and  was developed for low COE porcelain but works well in the studio on stoneware and  Bmix as well.

glazy  picture attached as well 

please try not to use comet cleanser in your glaze - just my opinion  though.

 

F7FC959C-C6B8-4767-91D6-4D39F0FBDB26.jpeg

Edited by Bill Kielb

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