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Charles

Great multi-application texture tool

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Linden Sweden Deep Notched Rolling Pin

 

Available at Amazon:  https://tinyurl.com/yb4j8pcz

 

I see that the price has gone up 25% since I bought mine a year ago, but I still think it's a good price for a great product - you can also use it for making Swedish flatbread, IF you thoroughly wash all the clay off first.  One charming review reads, "This item was ordered in the UK, was dispatched from the USA and was made in the Czech Republic, despite being "Swedish".

 

 

Although I initially bought this for surface texture, I have found other applications.  It's great for brushing a glaze on and then sponging it off the high points - if you're good, maybe you could apply a second glaze to just the high points. 

 

 It's also excellent for using with glazes that "break" with changes in surface texture.  One of my pieces uses that, but it's on a dark clay so the glaze doesn't achieve its full effect.  Yet another thing I've tried is dropping a bit of varying glazes in each pocket, OR doing the same with small bits of other clays - either wet or as grog. 

 

However, in this last case I'd suggest tamping the clay insert down a bit, and best to do this on pieces that will lie flat.  I built one of my slab-wrap cups doing this, and it was a horror show trying to roll the slab vertically without the clay bits falling out.  Perhaps a better approach might be dropping multiple clay slips in after formed?

 

The one thing I would suggest is filing/sanding the outside before using, as there is a fairly sharp point on each of the protrusions.

Inserted clay cup.jpg

Roller Plate - Fish Guts glaze on dark clay.JPG

Roller Plates - mixed treatments.JPG

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Actually, one of the reviews on Amazon said, "I use this rolling pin for acupressure. Love it!"

My first reaction was that the points were too sharp for that.  Curious, I searched for acupressure roller, and found that the Lyapco ones on Amazon were far sharper, with needles sticking out.  From the reviews, most folks seemed to like that, but others said that they were just too much for them.  One benefit of the wood roller is that you can file the points as much as you might want to.  I wrote to Amazon suggesting that they might "check" with the Czech producer to discuss developing variations specifically for acupressure.

 

 

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charles,  sanding any pottery is to be avoided.   rolling a flat rolling pin very lightly over the textured surface pushes down any sharp protrusions so no sanding is necessary.

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oldlady -

At first I had no idea what you were talking about, but then realized you had misinterpreted what I said.  I suspect that you didn't follow the link to view the roller, as I only mentioned sanding (actually filing works better, but some people might not have one) in reference to the sharp tips on the wood roller.

I can't imagine anyone trying to sand wet clay (is it even possible?), but I keep thinking I should bring a set of jewelry files and sandpaper to school to make any necessary (and possible) modifications to my bisque-ware.  

Old Man

 

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Agreed that sanding is bad - dust.

That said, I smooth off chatter after bisque with sandpaper; I'm taking it outside, back to the wind, particle mask on, then blow all off with compressed air before heading back inside. 

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charles,  you are right, i have one of those rollers from the 1970s when i thought i would use it.  mine did not have any sharp edges so i did not look at the link.  yes, i assumed you were sanding the clay after bisque because i read "before using" as before using finished pottery.  sorry.   

unfortunately, there are many, many newish potters who think sanding is a natural part of making pottery.   and there are lots of raw beginners who think a kiln is like a toaster and have no idea what they are doing.   it is hard not to try to cover all bases when it comes to studio safety.   

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Well -  your saying "rolling a flat rolling pin very lightly over the textured surface pushes down any sharp protrusions so no sanding is necessary" made it sound like you're talking about wet clay and not bisque, but I  now see you meant rolling the wet clay so you wouldn't need to sand the bisque.   Since the sharp points were on the roller and not the clay, I wasn't making that connection.

Because I only hand-build and use lots of inclusions, I sometimes discover random sharp spots after the glaze firing.  I can't really tell while building as some materials, such as granite, generally smooth out at ^10.  My clay bit inclusions will usually lose any sharp edges, but they're not as consistent.  Also, the tube will often break at the corners as I'm folding the legs and I tend not to notice edges that could become sharp after firing, largely because I want it to be rustic.  I was thinking that since I can't predict the final outcome very well, I should try to look for potential problems out of bisque and address them then.

I only suggest filing the points down so they don't penetrate the clay so deeply, as I see no use for having a minuscule deep hole in the clay.

I've been considering other options, such as selectively reducing the height on varying pins - perhaps filing at an angle, or making patterns by turning squares of four (or nine) pins into one mid-height (or varied height?) one, but still have these surrounded by the regular interval.

I see myself buying more of these in the near future while waiting for the spring semester to begin.

BTW - I noticed that BB&B has these for a dollar less than Amazon - at least online.  Of course there's no free shipping, but I pass one when walking from the T station to my HMO and they both charge tax, so I'll likely head there.

Charles

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