JSmithCanvasNClay Posted December 26, 2018 Report Share Posted December 26, 2018 Is it necessary to fire to sculpture to vitrification? If firing to cone4, will the sculpture be too fragile? I don't always glaze my items and detail with acrylic paints and don't want to take short cuts in firing to save money, if the pieces should be vitrified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 26, 2018 Report Share Posted December 26, 2018 If it's going to be displayed indoors, there's no need for it to be vitrified. Plus it'll take paint better if it's porous. Bisque and vitrified clay looks different, though, if you're leaving any of it unglazed/unpainted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted December 26, 2018 Report Share Posted December 26, 2018 Won't be as strong if it's not taken to it's cone designation. You could of course fire a lower firing body and it will be stronger. I find painting bisqued stuff to be extremely annoying because it sucks moisture out of the brush as you're painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSmithCanvasNClay Posted December 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 Liam, do you recommend any particular clay? I currently finishing up two types of cone6 clay, BMix and a brown that’s full of grog. I’ve been experimenting with underglaze, black washes, and touching up with acrylic. My goal is going for depth, muted colors, saving time and $... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSmithCanvasNClay Posted December 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 Thank you Neil. I’m experimenting with colors and texture. As I am using a studio kiln, results aren’t revealed for weeks. As you can imagine, this really puts the breaks on future work! I have a show in April and would like to complete as many pieces as possible. I hope to have a kiln by spring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted December 27, 2018 Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 JS: are the various parts of this piece uniform ( or nearly) in thickness? From what I can see, it looks to have some wide variations? Personally I would fire this piece on a slow speed. It will need the extra time to insure that heat work is uniform as possible. Secondly I would put sand under it so it can move. You have a fair amount of weight bearing down on a small foot print. At certain temps clay goes through some significant changes that puts larger pieces under enough stress to crack them. ( search quartz inversion) I would avoid brown, dark, or red clays until you have your own kiln. These darker bodies have high iron content, which requires its own firing schedule. Until you have control over the firing, would be best to wait. Kudos on creativity. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted December 27, 2018 Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 4 hours ago, JSmithCanvasNClay said: Liam, do you recommend any particular clay? I currently finishing up two types of cone6 clay, BMix and a brown that’s full of grog. I’ve been experimenting with underglaze, black washes, and touching up with acrylic. My goal is going for depth, muted colors, saving time and $... How do you like the brown clay with grog? If you like it more than b-mix, you can get bmix with grog too. I don't usually recommend any clays, it's a personal thing... Kinda just have to try a few out and see which one works best for you. Looks nice though, good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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