VladCruceanu Posted December 8, 2018 Report Share Posted December 8, 2018 I have used the following tools: - Roller - Arabic Gum Liquid - Indian Ink - Tried two pictures: 1. Printed in color by a laser Xerox. 2. Copied black and white by another Xerox machine. Made everything as in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUNH6KvYGnk Tried 2 times with both pictures on soft leather hard clay and nothing transferred. Please help me understand what I am doing wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted December 8, 2018 Report Share Posted December 8, 2018 What did you do with the Indian ink? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VladCruceanu Posted December 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2018 43 minutes ago, PeterH said: What did you do with the Indian ink? I used a wrong ink? What type of ink should I use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted December 8, 2018 Report Share Posted December 8, 2018 Lithography is based on the fact that oil and water don't mix. The gum-arabic solution provides the water-based part, so you need to use an oil-based ink. A printable description of the process can be found at https://pistrucciartworks.wordpress.com/2011/03/20/photolithography-on-clay/ Regards, Peter Hope you have more success than I did. Lithography works better with high-contrast images, and sometimes fudges such as half-toning are required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VladCruceanu Posted December 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2018 So I will get an ink based on oil. Should I use an inkjet printer? Other mistakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted December 8, 2018 Report Share Posted December 8, 2018 I would suggest starting with DIY ink -- oil+pigment (a mason stain sounds good[1]). [2] .. and an image with some largish 100% back and 100% white areas. Everybody seems to say no to inkjet printers. Some [all?] Xerox and Laser printers produce a fused plastic image that is likely to be good at rejecting water and being receptive to oil. While inkjet inks may be water-soluble. After you've applied the gum-arabic solution and let things stand for a while you should see that the paper in the white areas has absorbed the solution (e.g. looks translucent). It needs to do this to repel the oil. Regards, Peter [1] Use an oxide until you've got the hang of things, if you don't have any to stain hand [2] Ideally it should be what's known as a drying oil. Several are listed in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil. These can be bought (fairly expensively) as artists supplies. Oils sold for cooking are cheaper. However as long shelf- life and optimum drying properties are mutually exclusive the cooking oil may be denatured [to prevent it going rancid too fast after opening]. Personally I would start with something like walnut oil from the local supermarket. ... remember drying properties are pretty academic until you get the transfer process working. For production use an artists/woodworkers/decorators linseed oil might be technically better. Up to you to judge the cost/performance balance. But be aware that rags soaked in the more drying oils can [and sometimes do] burst into flames, and have been the cause of some expensive fires (linseed and tung oil in particular). [AFAIK keep rags in a small screw-top jar. If things start to go downhill the oxygen is depleted before the temperature rises too high.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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