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Used fire brick changed my plans

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IMO, all kilns need steel. Bricks, especially hard bricks, move a lot. At the very least it will help keep gaps from forming. At the very most, it will help keep it from falling down in the middle of a firing. I would never feel comfortable firing a kiln without steel, unless it was very small.

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Its interesting to watch your progress. My walls  & arch were all double thickness and  the front and back walls were fit into the arch - lots of brick cutting and getting the angles right.  I agree with Mark- you'll need to squeeze it to the arch.  It's a shock to see the wall bulging out as you reach cone 10.  Steel support is a good idea. What did you decide about a door?

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6 hours ago, Rae Reich said:

Wall layers are only tied together every six courses? That seems skimpy to me for such a tall wall.

Good Eye Rae-I only saw this photo on my small phone but now at hotel (on a road trip to SF)Great day to travel as most folks are glued for some reason to TV screens in this country.

I can see it clearly on my laptop.The norm is to tie the courses together way more than every 6th layer.I suggest that you do not do that on the front wall.That will need more header courses.(I think thats what they are called as the long ways is caller soldiers)

Hopefully you have a copy of Fred olsens kilnbuiling book which shows the brick laying techniques you need here.You need this book

That back wall will want to bow and walk away from arch when hot so use some steel (I beams or angle or heavy sheet whatever you can scronge up) to reinforce that wall-run some rods or angle or whatever to same on front wall so they cannot spread apart as they will and pretty fast when hot.Think of it like a large wood clamp holding the tow walls from moving apart with the arch in the middle.You will need at least tow to three connections per side to keep the spread on that tall arch.

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