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Patrick

Used fire brick changed my plans

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17 hours ago, Mark C. said:

Whatever they used to use should still work fine-just because the new stuff is plastic does not mean the old steel in no good. I have NEVER heard of this replacement deal unless the old is rusted up bad.

Yeah, no idea. 

I'm almost certain, we have what you mentioned, because the vertical section, coming out of the ground, where it goes into the garage, is that exact thing. 

I believe the notice we received, mentions, that type of piping has been found to corrode, or something along those lines. 

As I mentioned, I have not addressed the issue yet, and haven't heard much from our gas company since.  They put a tag, on that line, coming out of the meter, to indicate that it needs to be updated, but said tag came off years ago.

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We wrapped black 2" with tape and buried it 18". The only rust was where the weed eater chewed through the tape at ground level at the meter. A little expensive to fix that last year since I'm past my diy digging days.  Advise you to place bricks or blocks strategically to prevent accidental gardening incursions. 

Extending your slab toward the meter is maybe not wise for a raku location. Be sure to leave lots of clear area around the front for reduction cans, clearance for carrying hot pots with tongs and room for several human helper/participants. 

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I dunno, it's an contrary to logic, but no you can't by code use galvanized pipe for gas. I believe it's because of the galvanized coating fouling the threads.

You have to use black pipe. When we did our studio slab years ago, I used black pipe wrapped with the heavy mil black tape designed just for use with black pipe, and buried it 18" before the slab was poured. That is (was) code.

If I was to do it today in a short run to a raku kiln, I'd find that nice black plastic coated pipe, albeit, I bet it's expensive.

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THIS year, I had to abandon the original gas line to my 100 year old house. That's when I met the Mole Man. Newest technology. Dig holes 18" deep at strategic turning points and set loose the Mole. Little burrowing machine that makes a hole and installs the new plastic pipe. No trenching, it can go under house foundations and trees and the pipe is flexible enough to accommodate growing roots (says here). Only gets a seven year guarantee, although I'm not sure what kind of warranty I'd get with traditional pipe laying. 

Cost was by the foot and I have 85' between the meter and the house, so about $6000 altogether. Worth it. 

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As noted  above pipe rising up out of ground get wacked. My plastic wrapped black pipe has heard up well in theses situations. I have 6 of these risers on my property with the 2 inch.They all are in good shape. None are where I would hit them with a string trimmer.Most all my pipe where it comes out of ground gets sprayed with high heat silver paint to keep the heat off it from kilns-with the exception of a run that goes under house and comes out to underground to kiln area which is house point color.

You may want to get that pipe run roughed in before(at least bought and laid out on paper) you pour your slab to keep from threading say a non standard length . Moving the slab 6 inch is easier than cutting and threading 6 inches off a 2 inch pipe.

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For the standard gas kiln a permanent set up is reasonable, but I just use a flexible 50' hose for my Raku kiln and for getting a little gas going to start the big wood kiln.  I ran a long propane line underground to get heat to the studio (about 40-50') but added a fitting on the outside of the building.  I bought a 50' hose from the propane company that I can just attach when needed.  This type of setup might work for propane users needing only occasional gas for smaller uses (like Raku).

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