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Kakes

French cleat hanging for ceramic tiles?

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I have some large-ish (around 18 x 20") tile pieces that I want to hang on the wall. I would like to attach a french cleat to the back. Has anyone tried this with either metal or wood cleats? What kind of adhesive did you use? 

Or do you have another method (invisible) for hanging pieces on a wall?

thank you!

 

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I personally would never trust an adhesive to hang pieces on the wall unless you have a very large area of adhesive, and have roughed up the ceramic surface to really grip it. All adhesives will fail at some point, and when it comes crashing down off the wall someone could get injured, and other things could get broken. If your tiles have not been roughed up, I would recommend a mechanical means of hangin them, like a frame or plate hanger- something that mounts securely to the wall and holds the tile.

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Sigh.. i was afraid of that. Maybe there is another solution, like attaching some sort of clay hanger on the back with slip - before it's fired of course. My problem is that I make large, very thin slab pieces that are impossible (at least for me) to turn over while it's green. The edges are slightly curved like a platter though, so maybe I could slip something behind it without turning the piece over?

Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem?

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JB weld  two part epoxy will hold most metals to ceramics-just follow instructions

I use it to hang my wall fish with stainless wire.

It can fail if it gets really hot in the sun.

After googling French cleat I see they are made from wood.

If the cleat is 18 inches long and the tile is under 20# I think you could do this-as Neil says rough surfaces hold better.You could find in some groves then clean then glue the wood.

Edited by Mark C.

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At one point I used French cleats on  tiles, 6x6 - 8x8.  I made the cleat, and adhered it with epoxy.  I cannot remember the name/brand other than I ensured it was for use with clay and wood.  the back of the tiles was scored and the some of the cleats I put extra holes in to take in more of the epoxy.  They are still hanging 10 years later.

Chad

 

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18 hours ago, Kakes said:

Sigh.. i was afraid of that. Maybe there is another solution, like attaching some sort of clay hanger on the back with slip - before it's fired of course. My problem is that I make large, very thin slab pieces that are impossible (at least for me) to turn over while it's green. The edges are slightly curved like a platter though, so maybe I could slip something behind it without turning the piece over?

Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem?

I would guess that you are forming your pieces on bats or ware boards...if so, you could sandwich your piece between 2 boards and then turn it over. Then you could add your clay hangers...

JohnnyK

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Thank you everyone, for your replies. Chad - making holes in the cleats is a good idea! JohnnyK, I can't turn the pieces over between boards because they aren't really flat and the edges are curled up. They're also too big for me to do this without another set of hands. 

A fabricator I know suggested using large metal hangers with D-rings which I found online. They're 1" wide x 6" long (by 1/8" thick) so plenty of space to spread the epoxy. It's probably overkill but better safe than sorry! 

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I make ceramic pieces with holes in them for stainless steel wire. I use JB weld to glue non the ceramic pieces to the backs of some fish wall art then when glue is set off string the wire. The two part slow set JB weld is super strong.You have to mix it right and rough surfaces glue better.The wire spreads the load .

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6 hours ago, Kakes said:

Thank you everyone, for your replies. Chad - making holes in the cleats is a good idea! JohnnyK, I can't turn the pieces over between boards because they aren't really flat and the edges are curled up. They're also too big for me to do this without another set of hands. 

A fabricator I know suggested using large metal hangers with D-rings which I found online. They're 1" wide x 6" long (by 1/8" thick) so plenty of space to spread the epoxy. It's probably overkill but better safe than sorry! 

Flipping fragile platters - lay a sheet of 1" foam over the leather hard - pretty stiff piece. Cover with a lightweight inflexible board larger than the piece. Flip. Apply ceramic cleats. Allow to dry a bit more and re-flip.

Be aware that the cleats might still show through, depending on how high you're firing and how they're designed, if the clay softens at maturity. Gluing on cleats or wires might be better. 

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