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Skutt Kiln S/S rings reattaching

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We have an old 1027 Skutt. We picked it up used, replaced a heating element and have used it for 10 firings or so. The other day, on a cone 6 firing, one of the stainless steel straps broke free of the fire brick (The hose clamp straps spot welds broke) and it almost hit one of us when we were checking the pyrometer! It was a huge stress having a broken kiln at 2000. It also messed up a few of our bowls with kiln brick debris that got trapped in the wet glaze.

We flexed the credit card and ordered a new one - but we have 4 more weeks of wait, and we would like to figure out how to fix this!

As you probably realize, we can't get the stainless off without pulling the electrical boxes off the side and disconnecting all the heating elements.

We tried drilling into the stainless with 5 different bits, some brand new - and could only get a scratch on it. Does stainless get harder with heat?? All of the rings are flaky - too. Surprised we hadn't noticed this before!

To bind it - there's electrical boxes in the way to get strapping around it. We feel like we need to fix it to even give it to Habitat for Humanity (Re-Store) to some level - even to move it.

Has anyone come across this issue in a repair?

IMG_0013.jpg

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Oh Dear! Good that no one was hurt.

I have an old 1027 (probably older than yours), will take a close look at the hose clamps...

Stainless can be very tough to machine; try cobalt, or carbide (harder, also more brittle) drill bits, and use cutting fluid (we used "Chemtool" back in th' day). Surely a hole can be made with Dremel set with a small carbide burr.

Any road, can you strap that puppy back together with something that can take the heat? Perhaps three or more turns of something like

Item #3051T23
Stainless Steel Plumber's Tape / Strapping
0.031" Thick x 3/4" Wide x 10' Long, 304 GRADE.

...or a cabling (not plastic coated cable, o'course).

Did you call and talk with the Skutt techs? I (and several Ceramic Arts Daily forum members...) have found them very helpful and responsive.

Good luck! I'm curious to hear/see how you repair that!

 

 

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If the clamps came unwelded, you can just screw them back onto the band with #6 sheet metal screws. If you're having a hard time drilling the stainless, get better quality bits (3/32" for #6 screws). Put a little dent in the stainless with a nail to keep the bit from drifting. Unless the stainless is badly corroded, you shouldn't need to replace the band.

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1 hour ago, neilestrick said:

If the clamps came unwelded, you can just screw them back onto the band with #6 sheet metal screws. If you're having a hard time drilling the stainless, get better quality bits (3/32" for #6 screws). Put a little dent in the stainless with a nail to keep the bit from drifting. Unless the stainless is badly corroded, you shouldn't need to replace the band.

This is what I have done many times as well-get a carbide drill bit (they are double the cost and you may need two of them for all the holes in kiln)and some stainless screws-cancels your band order as those bands look fine(not rusted)

If the clamps are rusted junk just by some stainless hose clamps at hardware store and plated them out drill some holes thru them and screw them to the kiln bands.This job is under 12$ in parts.

And while you are at it drill and screw the other clamps before they also snap-This whole deal is a pet peeve I have had with Scott kilns for 45 years now-crappy cheap hardware. If they used 2$ a kiln better hardware you would never be here and also forget about spot wields as they do not hold thru heat and cool cycles which as you and the world knows is what kilns do every fire

Ok rant over on Skutt

well not quite-you may as well change all the screws out for stainless the handle the boxes every screw as they are all going to rust to nothing-Yep say 2$ more per kiln on the manufacturing side at most. I have had 4 skutts and that all have done this.

Not buy another as I know there are better kilns out there-and yes they cost more.

Ok 2nd rant over

Edited by Mark C.

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I agree with you Mark - this is a really poor way to design these. I tried some used cobalt bits without luck - including a new non-cobalt. I'll purchase some more and see if I can get it to punch a hole at all - it does seem to have gotten harder with heat and age. But currently, I can't even move it until I do something!

Thanks for the input.

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you will need a small punch as Neil said to put a small diple  in stainless band before drilling.. The material is tough but it will drill with the right bits and strength.

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Use a small hammer and a sharp center punch to make the dimple. Then the small drill will work well. Get the bits made for stainless steel.

I have cut up to 4 inch holes in that Jacket material.

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Yes all in place. In your case have someone hold a hardbrick behind the metal  jacket since its loose (almost off)then hit the center punch on metal with brick as a backstop.That way you are not hitting the softbrick.You need a sharp center punch 

 

Edited by Mark C.

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