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potter232

banding wheel stuck!

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My banding wheel has not been used for some time and has completely stuck, will not turn at all in spite of putting WD40 in all the holes and everywhere that moves (or should move). As they are quite expensive I haven't tried hammering it in case it breaks. Has anyone successfully dealt with this problem, please? (I thought I was quite strong, but perhaps not!)

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My banding wheel has not been used for some time and has completely stuck, will not turn at all in spite of putting WD40 in all the holes and everywhere that moves (or should move). As they are quite expensive I haven't tried hammering it in case it breaks. Has anyone successfully dealt with this problem, please? (I thought I was quite strong, but perhaps not!)

 

This is not an answer to your problem (sorry), but a related question: Is there any way to CAUSE the banding wheel to stay still when I want to use it as a perch for something I'm working on? Sort of the opposite of your question! smile.gif

Ginny

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I can't imagine why the banding wheel is so stuck. I would keep applying the WD40 and let it sit. Maybe get some help in trying to twist it loose. Could it be frozen from rust? WHat is the brand name? Shimpo and Bailey have some pretty heavy banding wheels. I have both and live in rust land but neither have seized up.

Marcia

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There is better stuff than wd 40-try liquid wrench or PB blaster or straight 30 weight oil and let it sit

The next level would be mild heat if after a day the lubricant does not work

Mark

 

 

I have also used mild heat to loosen up banding wheels. You have to be careful of some of them as they are made of pot metal, and heating makes it more brittle causing your to break. Is your banding wheel with bearings or just a shaft on a sleeve?

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I can't imagine why the banding wheel is so stuck. I would keep applying the WD40 and let it sit. Maybe get some help in trying to twist it loose. Could it be frozen from rust? WHat is the brand name? Shimpo and Bailey have some pretty heavy banding wheels. I have both and live in rust land but neither have seized up.

Marcia

 

 

Hi Marcia! I don't know what make of banding wheel I have - I bought it a few years ago on ebay and it is painted bright blue, so I don't know what kind of metal it is, or why it should stick now when it has been in the same place all this time - except that it hasn't been used for ages. It doesn't look rusty. I have really soaked it with the WD40 and left it a while then tried to move it but nothing happened. I don't have anyone I could ask to help, as most of my friends are older than I am, (I'm 70) so it will have to be brains rather than brawn if I am to solve this. (Someone else's brain that is! Mine hasn't worked as yet!) I can't imagine why it has stuck either.

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There is better stuff than wd 40-try liquid wrench or PB blaster or straight 30 weight oil and let it sit

The next level would be mild heat if after a day the lubricant does not work

Mark

 

 

I have also used mild heat to loosen up banding wheels. You have to be careful of some of them as they are made of pot metal, and heating makes it more brittle causing your to break. Is your banding wheel with bearings or just a shaft on a sleeve?

 

 

 

Hi Mark! Thanks for your suggestions, but I'm in the UK and have not heard of anything but WD40 which I have applied a few times and left it to soak. Our local DIY store has just closed down so don't know who to ask. As the thing is painted with blue paint what way should I heat it? The paint doesn't matter, I just want it to work! I don't know if it has bearings but think probably not. The trouble is the shaft is quite short so there isn't much room to apply any pressure.

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My banding wheel has not been used for some time and has completely stuck, will not turn at all in spite of putting WD40 in all the holes and everywhere that moves (or should move). As they are quite expensive I haven't tried hammering it in case it breaks. Has anyone successfully dealt with this problem, please? (I thought I was quite strong, but perhaps not!)

 

 

This is not an answer to your problem (sorry), but a related question: Is there any way to CAUSE the banding wheel to stay still when I want to use it as a perch for something I'm working on? Sort of the opposite of your question! smile.gif

Ginny

 

 

 

Dear Ginny,

 

You could have my "static" banding wheel! I think I may have to invest in a new one!unsure.gifIf you are in the US then perhaps it wouldn't be possible - it would cost a fortune to mail it as I am in the UK.

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ON the topic of banding wheels being expensive...... Ikea has lazy susans very cheap... I have 3 of them and use them a lot as well as a "real" banding wheel. They are vey useful for the price.

 

 

 

 

Dear Michael, Thanks for that idea - I don't have an Ikea very near, but maybe I can get someone to get one for me. (No car!)

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Is it possible that something was put inside to stop it from spinning, temporarily? Did you check the bottom? Is there a screw on the side that could possibly have been tightened to stop the spinning?

I agree with Marcia I can't imagine a banding wheel doing this. Do a search of the manufacturer so you can inquire of them. There couldn't be many who make bright blue banding wheels!

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I can't imagine why the banding wheel is so stuck. I would keep applying the WD40 and let it sit. Maybe get some help in trying to twist it loose. Could it be frozen from rust? WHat is the brand name? Shimpo and Bailey have some pretty heavy banding wheels. I have both and live in rust land but neither have seized up.

Marcia

 

 

Hi Marcia! I don't know what make of banding wheel I have - I bought it a few years ago on ebay and it is painted bright blue, so I don't know what kind of metal it is, or why it should stick now when it has been in the same place all this time - except that it hasn't been used for ages. It doesn't look rusty. I have really soaked it with the WD40 and left it a while then tried to move it but nothing happened. I don't have anyone I could ask to help, as most of my friends are older than I am, (I'm 70) so it will have to be brains rather than brawn if I am to solve this. (Someone else's brain that is! Mine hasn't worked as yet!) I can't imagine why it has stuck either.

 

 

Bright blue is either a Shimpo or a Bailey deluxe banding wheel.

You might check for a model number and call Bailey. I have a Shimpo and a Bailey and love both of them. They are smooth turning and will go for a long time with a gentle spin.Get it working! They are expensive but worth it IMHO.

Marcia

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Pres, what is pot metal??

 

 

pot metal is an inexpensive metal that used to make cheap parts. It is cast a lower temperatures, and does not have the temper of steels and aluminum. It will break easily. There are still banding wheels out there that are nothing more than a steel shaft going into a sleeve. No bearings, just need lubrication. They are cheap, and for classroom use do not hold up well over time. It is usually best to buy a banding wheel with bearings that will last the rest of your studio years. Many people do use lazy susans, but even these don't get the work up higher, and they do not last as long as a real banding wheel.

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My banding wheel has not been used for some time and has completely stuck, will not turn at all in spite of putting WD40 in all the holes and everywhere that moves (or should move). As they are quite expensive I haven't tried hammering it in case it breaks. Has anyone successfully dealt with this problem, please? (I thought I was quite strong, but perhaps not!)

 

 

This is not an answer to your problem (sorry), but a related question: Is there any way to CAUSE the banding wheel to stay still when I want to use it as a perch for something I'm working on? Sort of the opposite of your question! smile.gif

Ginny

 

 

 

Dear Ginny,

 

You could have my "static" banding wheel! I think I may have to invest in a new one!unsure.gifIf you are in the US then perhaps it wouldn't be possible - it would cost a fortune to mail it as I am in the UK.

 

 

Dear Potter,

Unfortunately for me this option is out. I live in the US! But thanks for paying attention to my post! I was serious, but no one has offered a suggestion. It's the perfect height for some work, but its insistence on spinning when I'd rather it held still makes me wish for some kind of brake for it. (A.A. Milne: The Engineer: Let it rain! Who cares? I've a train upstairs, With a brake Which I make From a string Sort of thing, Which works In jerks...) Maybe a string wound around somewhere??? I want to be able to choose when it's static and when it spins!

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My banding wheel has not been used for some time and has completely stuck, will not turn at all in spite of putting WD40 in all the holes and everywhere that moves (or should move). As they are quite expensive I haven't tried hammering it in case it breaks. Has anyone successfully dealt with this problem, please? (I thought I was quite strong, but perhaps not!)

 

 

This is not an answer to your problem (sorry), but a related question: Is there any way to CAUSE the banding wheel to stay still when I want to use it as a perch for something I'm working on? Sort of the opposite of your question! smile.gif

Ginny

 

 

 

 

If your banding wheel is aluminum and sits on a spindle (mine is on of the less expensive Amaco wheels), then you might be able to have a hole drilled in the neck of the banding wheel and a thumb screw put in so you can tighten it when you want a stationary wheel. You might also be able to take a thin piece of aluminum and use it as a shim between the spindle and the neck when needed.

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Pres, what is pot metal??

 

 

 

The alloy, often called pot metal, is a mixture of primarly zinc and aluminum. There may be minor amounts of other metals add depending on the use and manufacturer. The alloy is often used in car door handles. It has the virtue of working very well in injection molding systems.

 

Its major defect is that it is very chemically active and corrodes with either acids or bases, salts, or alkaline materials. If you need a rust breaker and don't know the name of the favored brand available in your area, try talking to your local automotive mechanics.

smile.gif

 

Kroll is my rust solvent of choice btw

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I have a great banding wheel that I use all the time for teapot handles and spouts. It is blue, but I woudn't call it bright blue. There is a bearing at the top of the shaft. If you pick it up by the top, the base falls off with a huge CLANG! I don't know how you got yours stuck. I have used mine for eons.

I am thinking a gear puller would do the trick. It pulls gears off shafts at an even rate. Go to a machinists shop or a mechanic for this. When the shaft is off, put a drop of sewing machine oil on the bearing.

Good luck!

TJR.

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My banding wheel has not been used for some time and has completely stuck, will not turn at all in spite of putting WD40 in all the holes and everywhere that moves (or should move). As they are quite expensive I haven't tried hammering it in case it breaks. Has anyone successfully dealt with this problem, please? (I thought I was quite strong, but perhaps not!)

 

 

This is not an answer to your problem (sorry), but a related question: Is there any way to CAUSE the banding wheel to stay still when I want to use it as a perch for something I'm working on? Sort of the opposite of your question! smile.gif

Ginny

 

 

Sorry I missed your question earlier. I used to have the same problem-wanting to lock a banding wheel. I found that bicycle inner tubes hen cut to 3" wide on one side and tapering to 1" could be wrapped and tied to hold the wheel with a little bit of give.

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My banding wheel has not been used for some time and has completely stuck, will not turn at all in spite of putting WD40 in all the holes and everywhere that moves (or should move). As they are quite expensive I haven't tried hammering it in case it breaks. Has anyone successfully dealt with this problem, please? (I thought I was quite strong, but perhaps not!)

 

 

WD40 is an aerospace wash-down formula whence the WD in the WD40. It's not a particularly good penetrant and it is even worse as a lubricant. I would recommend soaking it in diesel fuel unless you can get a specific penetrating oil such as "Bolt-off" or "Liquid Wrench" followed up with a nice lubricating oil after it is loosened up. The best place to find a penetrating oil wold be your local friendly auto parts store or you local mechanic. Good luck.

 

Best regards,

Charles

 

 

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If this is an eBay special banding wheel that costs around $15 then it is most likely one of the stem-style that is just a shaft inside a sleeve with some grease to help it slide. These types don't last long and will freeze up unless you keep it lubed. Since they're aluminum they tend to oxidize pretty bad inside. I would suggest the penetrating oil and leave it upside down for a while. You can also try smacking it with a hammer on the center of wheel head to break it free, then put feet on the base and grab the head to try to loosen it up. Either way, these are not built to last and you may have to replace.

 

If your banding wheel was a few hundred bucks and weighs a ton then you've got a GOOD one like a Shimpo. These are built to last with heavy duty materials and are built with serviceability in mind. Turn it upside down and you should see a nut to take it apart. The bottom would most likely have the brand name stamped on it for these nicer banding wheels.

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If this is an eBay special banding wheel that costs around $15 then it is most likely one of the stem-style that is just a shaft inside a sleeve with some grease to help it slide. These types don't last long and will freeze up unless you keep it lubed. Since they're aluminum they tend to oxidize pretty bad inside. I would suggest the penetrating oil and leave it upside down for a while. You can also try smacking it with a hammer on the center of wheel head to break it free, then put feet on the base and grab the head to try to loosen it up. Either way, these are not built to last and you may have to replace.

 

If your banding wheel was a few hundred bucks and weighs a ton then you've got a GOOD one like a Shimpo. These are built to last with heavy duty materials and are built with serviceability in mind. Turn it upside down and you should see a nut to take it apart. The bottom would most likely have the brand name stamped on it for these nicer banding wheels.

 

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