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To sand or not to sand-try sponging


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#1 Mark C.

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 12:00 PM

We used sand everything over 20 years ago on our production work here in the studio-it was dusty and a mess-Since the early 90's I wet sponge all work-it works great on all phases of greenware-especially bone dry pots
My helper and I sponge them all while loading a bisque kiln-we fine stick point any handle cracks as well on handle forms
No need to sand-try damp sponging and dip into water to clean as you go. Its faster as well
Mark
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#2 neilestrick

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 12:48 PM

Great for smooth clay bodies, but be careful on bodies containing sand, grog or fireclay. The sponge will remove the fine particles and expose the large, leaving a rough surface. To be honest, I think sponging every pots is unnecessary. If you do a good job during throwing and trimming, most everything should be good and smooth before it dries. It only takes a few extra seconds with a flexible rib (I use metal ribs) during throwing or trimming to get everything smooth as can be.
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#3 Mark C.

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 01:32 PM

Great for smooth clay bodies, but be careful on bodies containing sand, grog or fireclay. The sponge will remove the fine particles and expose the large, leaving a rough surface. To be honest, I think sponging every pots is unnecessary. If you do a good job during throwing and trimming, most everything should be good and smooth before it dries. It only takes a few extra seconds with a flexible rib (I use metal ribs) during throwing or trimming to get everything smooth as can be.


Good points as we use porcelain mostly-we only sponge the rough spots-not every pot-I should have clarified that
This works with grog bodies just be easy and sponge lightly -I do it on stoneware salt pots-=the trick is just a little
And to be honest the main point is to stop sanding and creating dust
Mark
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#4 Pres

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 02:00 PM


Great for smooth clay bodies, but be careful on bodies containing sand, grog or fireclay. The sponge will remove the fine particles and expose the large, leaving a rough surface. To be honest, I think sponging every pots is unnecessary. If you do a good job during throwing and trimming, most everything should be good and smooth before it dries. It only takes a few extra seconds with a flexible rib (I use metal ribs) during throwing or trimming to get everything smooth as can be.


Good points as we use porcelain mostly-we only sponge the rough spots-not every pot-I should have clarified that
This works with grog bodies just be easy and sponge lightly -I do it on stoneware salt pots-=the trick is just a little
And to be honest the main point is to stop sanding and creating dust
Mark


For years I have used what I call scungy pads-similar to the ones used to clean non stick cookware. I particularly like the centers out of industrial floor scrubbers. These come in a variety of grits. I usually sand with a fine one before bone dry, but after leather hard. I do wear a mask. Sometimes I forget to sand and do it just as loading the kiln. I much prefer the other method as there is less dust.

Simply retired teacher, not dead, living the dream. on and on and. . . . on. . . .                                                                                 http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/


#5 Benhim

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 04:13 PM

I usually tool my pots in the green state. Any rough spots can be knocked off with another tool and an emery cloth at bone dry. The emery cloth is dusty, but I've never been able to get the same results with out it.

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#6 smokin pots

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 06:24 PM

Question Mark,


What do you mean by "fine stick point" cracks in handles?
Could you go into more detail on that please?
Juli


sorry, i didn't mean to call you a question mark?????????
question, Mark or Mark, I have a question
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#7 Mark C.

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 07:03 PM

My mugs often after being handled and covered overnight will have a small crack on one side of the attachment point top or bottom or both.
This happens if I or my assistant handle them-hers crack on other side-we are both right handed-no matter how we change things we often get this small attachment crack
To fix this I use a sharp pointed wood trim tool (like a kemper 6-8 or 10 inch wood modeling tool)
or I have some homemade bamboo sticks with sharp points on them
Anything that will fit into a tight crack which we rub out while in the green state
Hope this is clear?
Mark
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#8 smokin pots

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 10:45 PM

Thanks Mark,
I did not know I could "rub out" those cracks. I had some of those today, and I slipped and scored and had to add a small roll of clay to hide it.
Pretty tacky of me to try and repair it like that. I wish I had read this post earlier today! I have the bamboo sticks, and some of the mugs are
leather dry hard. I will try the rub out. Not sure how deep to go, but I will give it a try.
Juli
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#9 JBaymore

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:57 AM

................ and an emery cloth at bone dry. The emery cloth is dusty, but I've never been able to get the same results with out it.



I'd maybe suggest getting the book "Artist Beware" by Dr. Michael McCann and reading it. Also "Keeping Claywork Safe and Legal" by Monnona Rossol. They should be in every potter's library.

best,

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#10 scoobydoozie

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:54 AM

My mugs often after being handled and covered overnight will have a small crack on one side of the attachment point top or bottom or both.
This happens if I or my assistant handle them-hers crack on other side-we are both right handed-no matter how we change things we often get this small attachment crack
To fix this I use a sharp pointed wood trim tool (like a kemper 6-8 or 10 inch wood modeling tool)
or I have some homemade bamboo sticks with sharp points on them
Anything that will fit into a tight crack which we rub out while in the green state
Hope this is clear?
Mark



To fix fine lines and smooth, I use the Kemper Wipe Out Tool. It has a different silicone rubber tip on each end. I like the results I get with it. There are a lot of shapes for different uses by other brands also. I learned about these while dabbling with polymer clay. Posted Image

Attached File  Kemper Wipe Out Tool.jpg   3.42KB   19 downloads

#11 Diana Ferreira

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 03:46 AM

I use a terracotta stained black slip - so I fully understand the issues with fettling ware. I cannot dry sand, as it will leave scratch marks. The risk of inhaling the dust particles is also an issue for me. So I wet sponge. I use a 2 bucket method. One is the dirty sponge, other the clean water. I only wipe the sponge once over a surface before I change to a clean area. Sponge is kept quite wet. This gives me a smooth uniform surface.
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