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I will keep reading but this design should not have any compression, just heat expatiation.   The ignition moment will likely be violent but should only be local to the magnetron. All the other tubes are to cool it back down. and to re-plate  the particle. 

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59 minutes ago, glazenerd said:

While I am still researching COE values of any given clay recipe in relation to thermal expansion properties: it occurred  to me that there is an application process relevant to your needs. CCVD or https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combustion_chemical_vapor_deposition

seeing as though you are firing in a backyard BBQ instead of an industrial furnace: raku reduction would produce the closest thing to a pure metallic layer. By the way; why is magnetite not on your grocery list?  

I have a bag of ball clay with a CEC of 18.56: it produces a brilliantly rubbery clay that fires into a rock. ( 0.31 microns)  so how to overcome the COE differentials.hmmm. Iron has a lower density than copper, equal to silica. Wonder if a metallic casting body can be had? Hmm. Freakin rabbit holes!! 

** I think Doc Brown is building a flux capacitor- he wants to go back in time or the thermite tunnel turbine. 

T

I do have a kiln ready, 

I still need to read up on Magnetite magnetic's I'm focusing on hematite as it will loose its magnetic's as it cools. "long story" but I will pass it along when I get past this first part. 

I'm keeping with clay for safety, if this can go into a run-away event, A clay body will just fail vs a cast body potential danger.

Edited by Trout

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A story~

As I do RC Aircraft as a hobby  {Seems long ago} I was building my own fiberglass wing skins. I would use a tractor trailer door blank for getting a smooth surface on one side of the fiberglass, This was  done by waxing the aluminum skin on the door blank and laying out the resin with cloth and use a swimming pool  round foam float cut in small lengths to squeegee all the air out from under the cloth. After this drys and its time to remove the glass sheet I would give a very nasty spark, the spark would fly from the wood door and hit the container wall with at least a 3 ' jump.

Hunting for an understanding of this I learned that the plywood with an aluminum sheet on each side turn the door into a capacitor. It was all the small air pockets holding the charge, maybe it was a chemical charge or friction induced but it was opening all the holds that let the charge  loose. The same idea I hope will work with the antenna exit from the snowflake mag. what I have read ... maybe salt in a clay area under the snowflake will do the same thing. If it will hold a charge to re-fire the mag if the storage area under it can use a magnetic field and release the stored charge back into the antenna . saw tooth pulse with a separated trigger. Just something more to think about. 

test parts moving along.

  

testparts.jpg

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Stopping point 

I did the steps for mixing and dry time to a "will not stick to my hands" and added the clay to this mold. used a pillow case cotton cloth and a wood roller to compress the clay into a mold with a lip height of 1/2'.  Removed the part and cut it up "cookie cutter style. Do I use a wet base to put the parts in or build a flat 1/2' and use water to attach each part?Do I let all the part air dry first? or put everything together wet? build on a plaster base or something else ?  

The clay in  the area that was pushed down into the plaster also has small checker marks, Is this just something I can rub down as I go or did I already mess this up from the start?

CT

QnA 1.jpg

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Trout

yes, you can use a clay slurry to join pices. Hard for members to give you guidance because no one knows for sure your goal. Cover your cut pieces with plastic to slow down the drying; will buy you time to assemble them. High alumina clay sands better than it trims: not exactly the same properties as standard clay. That said.: sanding means outside if possible, mask; usual safety.

it trims better at soft leather hard; it will flake and chip if it gets too dry.

t

Edited by glazenerd
Info added

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3 hours ago, Rae Reich said:

For finer sanding, use a green 3-M "pot scrubber". Do the pieces need to be super-smooth/polished?

Not really a need for smoothness, If I can cut the circles in the block it will be a lot less work and less chance of parts not sticking. past luck of parts falling apart after firing is why I came in here. My luck with 153 clay was frustrating..

The inside tubes  do need to be smooth but I am hoping the plastic inlays will melt out and will keep the hole left behind clean and smooth.

Painting the plastic with metal powder "hematite or carbon powder or copper dust ect   melt it into the walls and see if it will stick is my first goal.

Build something and brake it open and see if the inside passages will hold the metal dust after fire will tell me if I have any chance to make this all work.

trout

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plastic inlays? You need the interior of a ceramic tube to be perfectly smooth? Or are you referring to the channels left from the snowflake?

Edited by Rae Reich

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two different parts but yes. A dust particle "think of the particle as small glass bead  running through a racetrack inside the clay.. it needs to be a clean round hole, like a sandblaster nozzle.  

The snowflake is also just a void. The walls of the void within the clay will need a metal film around each hole, in this case it needs to be copper for the magnetron cavity and carbon for the extension fingers so the inside of the cavity will be conductive.   

star mag.jpg

Edited by Trout

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More or less yes. Like a volcano ~ slow steady release~

 

Getting the clay to cooperate is still giving me a fit. but I'm learning~  

QnA 2.jpg

Edited by Trout

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I abandoned the individual pieces, getting them to line up was a mess.. This time I just carved the part grove into the clay 1/2' deep. put in the plastic painted with a mix of glaze and hematite. 

 Mentioned covering with a plastic bag? Do you mean put it in a plastic bag with a few holes in it of just lay it over ?

The other repair I still need to do is the other side, when I put in the weed wacker string in I pushed the in/out side part of the design through to the bottom doing my best to back fill the voids but I'm betting I need to fix the area and I'm guessing all the checker marks are still on the bottom. Build a jig and flip it over ? Is it best to let the whole part dry at the same time? 

last.. if I flip it. can I use a plastic bag idea for it to shrink on?

Trout

 

QnA 2.jpg

Edited by Trout

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Covering with plastic ( bag works) to slow down drying. The shrinkage while drying is what usually create issues. You have a larger, heavier slab will have drag (friction) as it dries. Putting it on thin plastic so it can move while drying is not a bad idea. The down side is the texturing that occurs as the plastic pulls when the piece dries. Easy to deal with, but another step none the less. I would not flip it unless for some reason the normal shrinkage create an issue like cracking. If you have to flip it, then wait until it is completely firm and the edges are mostly dry.  A better trick is to set it on a piece of plywood (24 x 24") and flip the plywood. Even easier, place the same size piece of plywood on top ( clay sandwich) and turn it over without having to touch the piece. ( equal pressure)

T

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No need for key words for the bots, they know I'm here~

Its a cold fusion none nuclear reactor. 

I added the other rotational magnetic track holes to keep everything moving. 

The next part I am going to separate from this body and add microwave tubes to the magnetron. flower. It will likely need to be put in water to keep it cool anyway... Build a box with aluminum sheet walls inside and out and use the box as a capacitor. Salt water dielectric~

No need to call it.. let the young lings struggle~

Happy 8-8 

Trout

  

QnA 3.jpg

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 If any of you find it interesting feel free~

The mold for the upper and lower magnetic's to tune the magnetron  for a particle chain reaction on off. 

<S> Trout

 

 

QnA 4.jpg

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So this is the woo-woo part - your inspiration is ancient/old stone carvings that "describe" the activity you're trying to reproduce? How did you come to see this? Sounds like von Danikin/Ancient Aliens territory :) not that I'm judging. Curious and fascinated, tho.

Edited by Rae Reich

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A few years ago I just recognized what I was looking at. I knew exactly what it is but at the same time had no idea . Then went into full blown OCD to find out. ~ This all started with  just a silhouette  outline. I will tell you more if you like but its a very deep rabbit hole...

 

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1 hour ago, Trout said:

A few years ago I just recognized what I was looking at. I knew exactly what it is but at the same time had no idea . Then went into full blown OCD to find out. ~ This all started with  just a silhouette  outline. I will tell you more if you like but its a very deep rabbit hole...

Edit..

Something to look over. Zoom will show details of the same channel designs that you can see in a ton of old clay stone work. The why and the point of so many built with the same understanding but different layout.  Why do they have a water trough, why do they find mercury under many of them ,Why are they all so damn complected ? if they are just head stones.. 

 

 

momina-khatuns_mausoleum_1600x1067_a6f.jpg

stone5.jpg

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