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Linda A

Pressure gauge reading

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7 hours ago, Tyler Miller said:

Linda,

would you mind posting a photo of the entire kiln? I’m thinking this kiln might have some other things we should see.  

You said it’s an Estrin kiln, I’d like to see which one.  An Estrin with a perfect fire controller (to my Canadian ear) sounds like an electric model of kiln.  Which is why I’d like to see the whole thing.  There are a few things that don’t make sense about it.

My worry is that this has been a conversion job poorly executed.

Edit:  I’m convinced this is a poorly done conversion for the purposes of casting aluminum.  The kiln structure taken from an old Estrin, the burners from an old gas updraft.  The temp limitations, weird controller-solonoid setup, insufficient draft, all point to this being the case.

You can pick up an Estrin kiln for basically free in BC on Kijiji, and burner parts are always on hand at the kind of metal shop this came from.

This might be a lot of work.

Hello Tyler

As requested here are the specs and photos of the kiln.

Model number F10PG. 

serial no 31966

Date. 5/2000

Temp 2350F

Volts 115 V

Phase 1PH

Controller. DTP 563DC-E

60,000BTU propane  6"wC.   

Thankyou

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15 hours ago, Linda A said:

Thanks both of you.

I am getting excited about firing this kiln

The brand of controller is perfect fire.  Obsolete now.

The Perfect Fire is really an electric kiln controller, which is why your kiln functions by turning the gas solenoids on and off to achieve a specific rate of climb. Normally it would be actuating electrical relays. The difference is that electric kilns don't rely on  interior pressure to achieve even firings. It would not control gas valves, so don't worry about changing those out. You may still be able to use it as a high temp shutoff by setting your rate of climb at the max, 3999, and then firing manually. It's not clear in the manual whether or not the controller will put up an error code if it's not firing as fast as the controller wants it to. You'll have to try it and see.

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Neil,

 How can Linda short the solenoids open so that they are out of the line or should she just remove them and re-pipe the line from the valve to the BASO to fire manually? 

Or  I'm I off base?

 I wish my kiln had wheels! 

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20 minutes ago, postalpotter said:

Neil,

 How can Linda short the solenoids open so that they are out of the line or should she just remove them and re-pipe the line from the valve to the BASO to fire manually? 

Or  I'm I off base?

 I wish my kiln had wheels! 

By setting the controller at it's max programmable rate of climb, the solenoids will stay open, and the controller will simply function as a high temp shutoff. With it set at max, it shouldn't care how fast or slow the firing is actually progressing, but the manual isn't totally clear on that. If she takes the solenoids out and replaces them with baso valves, that'll get expensive pretty quickly, and  she'll have to deal with trying to get all that old piping apart. Won't be fun. If the controller doesn't work out, she could replace it with a general purpose high temp shutoff for about $100.

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4 hours ago, neilestrick said:

The Perfect Fire is really an electric kiln controller, which is why your kiln functions by turning the gas solenoids on and off to achieve a specific rate of climb. Normally it would be actuating electrical relays. The difference is that electric kilns don't rely on  interior pressure to achieve even firings. It would not control gas valves, so don't worry about changing those out. You may still be able to use it as a high temp shutoff by setting your rate of climb at the max, 3999, and then firing manually. It's not clear in the manual whether or not the controller will put up an error code if it's not firing as fast as the controller wants it to. You'll have to try it and see.

Ok thanks Neil.  I'll try it and let you know.  Won't be for a couple of weeks because my husband is away and he wants to be here when I fire .

 

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2 hours ago, Tyler Miller said:

Linda,

Thanks for the photos, they do help clarify a lot. It’s definitely not a conversion, which is good to know too.

Thanks for checking for me.  I was getting bummed out thinking I had wasted money buying this kiln.

Hooefully it will all work out.

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Linda sorry no joy on finding my log book which really wouldn't be that much help... other than to show how slowly I brought up the temp in the early stages.

I'll attach my gas line set up only to show you the gate valve and pressure gauge situated just prior to the burner and in your case just prior to the division  of line to each burner.

Mine is no longer attached to anything, just pinned to the wall for storage .

mark wrote of not adjusting the primary air intake, I did do this.

I have a book here writen in the 1970s by a Californian Ralph W Ritchie which is an interesting read.

if it doesn't cost an arm and leg to post I am willing to git it to you. Pers. Mess me your address. and i'll look into it.

other invaluable!! stuff on reduction firing and hoe to get the peachy rose tints of reduction, not the ubiquitous red, I have thrown out.......

On a small island of Australia I am no t about to land on your doorstep ...

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7 hours ago, Babs said:

I can add a downdraft firingdowndraft.jpg.ac20f2b4cca7f1bffe6f8906eb5e2305.jpg

Thanks Babs.  This is giving me some guidance. Sure send me an example of a downdraft firing.

linda

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8 hours ago, Babs said:

763126622_gaslinebabs.jpg.eed0a6ca0b4116cc2871e48799043391.jpg937123355_gasline2.jpg.a7efd9d9cd3c0097fc14183d7545e957.jpg

Note no dry clay anywhere:_(((

Without noting the PSI increase it would be hard to repeat firing schedules. This valve is easy to twist a fraction.

THANKYOU for the pics

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10 hours ago, neilestrick said:

The gas pressure settings needed during a firing will vary from kiln to kiln. You'll have to figure it out as you go along.

Yes Neil  a guide only.

One kiln, updraft is 5.6cubft and the second on 28.something downdraft. So along with the notes on burner turn on door open to light etc,  it gives a start to Linda re. Psi increase at start of firing which in both cases is small and requires a pressure gauge just after the gate valve imo.

Linda  second schedule is for a large downdraft  kiln

The empty temp column I  use for temp range I.e.temp increase/hr. Which is good to know at a glance.

Going to town tomorrow I'll mail the book.

Edited by Babs
Auto prompt thinks it knows everything:-)

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On ‎7‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 6:37 PM, neilestrick said:

If she takes the solenoids out and replaces them with baso valves,

the kiln already has the baso , but your are right  breaking old pipe fittings loose has always led to more of a headache then need be and if setting the controller at max temp opens the solenoids then that works and I will stop driving from the back seat.

I wish my kiln had wheels!

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48 minutes ago, postalpotter said:

the kiln already has the baso , but your are right  breaking old pipe fittings loose has always led to more of a headache then need be and if setting the controller at max temp opens the solenoids then that works and I will stop driving from the back seat.

I wish my kiln had wheels!

Yeh you could attach it to your bike:-)))

Linda I've removed the word bisque from above post..

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3 hours ago, Babs said:

Yes Neil  a guide only.

One kiln, updraft is 5.6cubft and the second on 28.something downdraft. So along with the notes on burner turn on door open to light etc,  it gives a start to Linda re. Psi increase at start of firing which in both cases is small and requires a pressure gauge just after the gate valve imo.

Linda  second schedule is for a large downdraft  kiln

The empty temp column I  use for temp range I.e.temp increase/hr. Which is good to know at a glance.

Going to town tomorrow I'll mail the book.

Thanks!!!

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