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Shimpo-West Wheel- (Bats)

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I acquired a Shimpo-West ring-cone popet wheel, which works well (and was an absolute blessing to get from a woman who ran the arts program at an old YWCA camp). I'm having trouble with bats. I tried drilling holes in plastic bats I already had, but I'm having trouble getting a tight fit on the wheel head since the posts are cone-shaped. I do not have the original manual, and the shifting while throwing  is not working for me. Does anyone have suggestions for drilling more accurate holes, or even a source for purchasing a pre-drilled bat? 

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I'm not sure but those pins look non standard (10) inch centers.

How about using a vise grip and removing them and drilling standards bat holes and using standard drilled bats from any ceramic shop.?

There has been many a thread on this subject-use the search function while on the home main page.

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That's my thinking, too. Get rid of those pins. They look way too high for most bats. You don't want them to stick up above the level of the bat or you'll catch your hand on them. Drill for new pins, 10 inch centers.

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If you don't re-drill the wheelhead try using a tip from Prez - 

Cut a piece of plastic the size of your bat. Do not cut out for the bat pins. Wet the wheelhead. Wet the side of the plastic going on the wheelhead. Place the plastic on the wheelhead. Wet the side of the  plastic now facing you. Wet the underside of the bat and place it on the plastic. The plastic should take up any extra space in the bat holes and the water helps to create a suction.

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I'd bring it to a machine shop and have new holes drilled at 10" center. If you can't get the old pins out... they look pretty well oxidized... the shop would be able to cut them off or grind them down flush. Then you can buy any of the standard 10" center bats that are widely available. If the wheel head is thick enough to have the holes threaded, have them tapped and threaded for 1/4 20, then you can screw your bat pins directly into the wheelhead without the need for a wingnut beneath. If the wheelhead doesn't have the thickness needed for threaded holes just have them drilled so that a 1/4 20 socket cap screw can slide through with just the tiniest touch of wiggle room.

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SLPart-

Just a bit of caution regarding threading the holes. It works quite well (don’t have to worry about losing the wingnouts, and nothing sticking down below the bottom of the wheel head to bark your knuckles on during cleanup), but you will want to take them out occasionally, clean the threads with a wire brush, put a little oil or grease on the threads, and put them back in. If you don’t, electrolysis can cause them to bind (read oxidize) and you will have difficulty removing them. About once every 2-6 months should do for any use other than high production with lots of water.

Regards,

Fred

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