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Brent CXC wheel problem with fuse?

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I bought an older Brent CXC via ebay (serial no. 96318) and I just started to use it. I noticed that it tripped the GFI outlet on the wall when it was plugged into a power strip. So I plugged it directly into the wall. All seemed to work okay after that. Then, today I was trying to find the right speed on the foot pedal and heard a pop. I tried to reset the GFI but now the pedal doesn't work. I figured I blew a fuse, but noticed that the orange light on the controller's on the on/off switch is  still lite. So, maybe I didn't blow a fuse after all. Do you think I blew the potentionator in the foot pedal instead? That costs apx. $67.

Any ideas?

If it is the fuse, then Is there a place to buy fuses for my wheel that aren't through Amaco/Brent. They want $8 for just one. I read I need to get a slow burn fuse.

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If it was the fuse, there wouldn't be any power to the system. If you heard a pop, then there's probably a sign of where the problem came from in the form of a fried out connection. Open up the pedal and see if you see anything. In general, Brent wheel problems are difficult to diagnose. However the pedal potentiometer is the most likely issue.

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I suggest smelling with your nose the foot pedal-the control box then the motor where the brushes are. 

Make sure its unplugged -wherever the burned electric smell come from post that here and we can guide you further.If its the foot pedal thats and easy fix if its the control box take it apart .let us know what you find.

usually there is no poping sounds-as that sounds like a dead short. I would inspect the wires as well for frayed or bare wires where they enter the foot pedal and box and motor.

Edited by Mark C.

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Well I just ordered  5 fuses from Amazon for $5 with free shipping... I figured I should replace the fuse since that is an easy fix and then see if it works. If not, then I'll have to take it apart and look for a short of some sort. I took apart the pedal potentionator and didn't see anything amiss. I'll keep you posted. 

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Make sure your fuses are "slow blow", as listed on the Amaco website.  Doesn't have to be from them - just has to be that type.   "Slow blow" means it's able to handle the initial surge required to start the motor spinning, but still protect against a sustained overload.  A regular 'fast-blow' fuse may blow when you start it up, even if there's nothing wrong with it. 

As Mark's comments suggest - a popping sound usually indicates a direct short, such as from a worn, or loose wire arcing against a metal housing.    Another thing that could produce a pop is a failed capacitor on the controller board or power supply.  I had a computer power supply make a pop and suddenly stop working and, when I opened it up, I found a capacitor that had the top blown off of it. 

I've never opened the controller on my wheel,  but I'm guessing there are at-least a couple of capacitors in the controller and/or power supply.   The pic below shows both a normal 'cap' and one that has leaked.  There are different types, and they come in different colors and sizes - one thing they have in common is that a normal one should have a flat top, like the one on the left.  If you see one that looks burnt, like the one on the right, or is split open, that's definitely a problem.

image.png.849bbb4e4c6c8a766794a5bbefe1ab0a.png

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(Make sure your fuses are "slow blow", as listed on the Amaco website.  Doesn't have to be from them - just has to be that type.   "Slow blow" means it's able to handle the initial surge required to start the motor spinning, but still protect against a sustained overload.  A regular 'fast-blow' fuse may blow when you start it up, even if there's nothing wrong with it. )

 

They need to be like Rockhopper says-slow blow-they look like they have a small spring in  them.

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Yes, I got the slow burn type fuses and am just waiting for them to arrive in the mail so I can put in a new one.

I called Amaco/Brent tech support and they believe the popping sound was most likely NOT the foot pedal. They suggested I take the control box down, then take the cover off the front and look around for anything wrong. That's what I'll do next... 

But, in the event that I can't find/fix the problem, they said if I sent the control panel and the foot pedal in the mail to them and paid the return shipping costs... there would be NO LABOR CHARGE, just the cost for any new parts. 

They were very nice and helpful on the phone and figured that my model is from 1996. It's great that they will repair older units, not just ones under warranty!

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I'm still waiting to get my new fuses, but in the meantime, I decided to open the control box and look around. Here is a picture of the inside. I didn't find any loose or burnt wires, nor any exploding capacitors (at least from the ones I could see, which I believe is the large blue thing) but I did find some burnt area on the BACK SIDE of the circuit board... see photo 2. I'm pretty sure that this circuitry works with the speed pedal since that is what it is connected to it. Although, I'm not sure I can remove it myself... I think it is soldered in place, so I'll probably be sending it to Amaco to fix. Now, I just need to figure out how to disconnect the control box and foot pedal from the motor so I can mail it in. I'll be calling them on Monday to see about that.

IMG_0912.JPG

IMG_0903.JPG

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@cosimotto Yeah, that's not good. Did you also open up the pedal and see if the potentiometer in there has any black marks? Taking it all apart depends on the wheel. They did several different assembly versions. Some have quick disconnects, some just have cord grips.

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It looks like that small circuit-board ~could~ be removed and replaced - but check with Amaco first - and be VERY careful.  The large blue capacitor could give you quite a shock, even with it unplugged, if it hasn't discharged yet and you accidentally touch both terminals (or components connected to them) at the same time.

 

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The motor and foot pedal are usually on those quick disconnects on your top photo on that square on the back right. right in photo has 4 of them.

Make a note of the colors and positions on the motor hook ups and foot pedal and pull the spade connectors apart.. Make a drawing.  Take a photo with your phone. All of this comes apart easy if you are so inclined -usually not soldered together .

Let us know the outcome.

what year is that wheel(if you know) it looks like newer board (90s?)

Edited by Mark C.

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I did take apart the foot pedal and the potentiometer all looks fine... no loose or burnt wires, all screws tight., no burnt marks... I tried to test it using my multimeter and it was about .03 ohms, so there is continuity... if I did that test right using an old multimeter without the beep.

 Also, this is a 1996 wheel. 

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Just an update on my Brent wheel... I sent it in to Brent about 1 week ago. (It was delayed due to illness and a death in the family.) They got it fixed in one day! It needed a new circuit board and a new rectifier (I'm not sure spelling), the thing that converts the AC to DC power. It ended up costing me about $200, which includes the shipping. Bob, the tech at Brent, said he also changed the foot pedal assembly AT NO CHARGE just because he had an extra one. So, my experience with Brent was GREAT.  I should be up in running in no time. Thanks for all the help I got on this forum, it was really wonderful.

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Just for your future reference -the rectifier is that 1 inch square box like thing in your photo of the back of your control board. Its in the left hand upper corner in front of the transformer with about 4-5 wires coming from it.You can always buy this seperately from Brent if it ever got out again .

Go to know they took care of you.

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