Guest Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Thanks Neil I know you use Standard 630 so I'm guessing it should work. Flint=silica Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 With a bigger hammer you can break any glaze .Some break easier than others and just a good toss usually works. Just keeping it lighter around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Thank you Marcia, Joseph and Neal for the glaze postings. I am now using the SC Hazelnut Brown with Cream Rust over. . . works well. However, will be working soon with the SC 630 which considering the white clay body vs the darker brown, the glazes may have major change. Time for some test shot glasses. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 10 minutes ago, Pres said: Thank you Marcia, Joseph and Neal for the glaze postings. I am now using the SC Hazelnut Brown with Cream Rust over. . . works well. However, will be working soon with the SC 630 which considering the white clay body vs the darker brown, the glazes may have major change. Time for some test shot glasses. best, Pres Funny you should mention that, I've got a batch of test shot glasses going into the bisque kiln tonight! I've got a glaze that I've been working on for several weeks that is finally ready for some bigger tests. Hopefully all will be good and I con move up to mug tests next week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Glad to hear that someone else thinks the shot glass test is worth doing. I try to take much of my glaze test problems out on them as they are easy, take up little kiln space and much easier to judge glaze quality that a test tile. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 3 hours ago, RonSa said: Flint=silica Not sure if this was a question or not, but yes. Flint = Silica. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 Joseph, Please always include temperature and atmosphere when posting glazes. I couldn't find cone anywhere with those very nice glazes you posted. I like thermion the black clay. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 1 minute ago, Marcia Selsor said: Joseph, Please always include temperature and atmosphere when posting glazes. I couldn't find cone anywhere with those very nice glazes you posted. I like thermion the black clay. Marcia It is funny that you mention this. Because I literally said that people should be doing this on the currie tile thread but then I didn't do it here! I will edit them to include the schedule I used when I fired them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 12 hours ago, RonSa said: My kiln has a sitter and I don't know a way to slow cool so for the most part I let nature take its own course. Put a shelf inside the top below lid. Add ceramic fiber on the lid. these will help slow cool. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 Updated my post with all the tiles with my schedule for those who were interested. Thanks Marcia for reminding me to follow my own words. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 Ronsa, I used to ,after the sitter dropped, lift it back up, put a weight on the latch, repress the start button, and hold or fire down manually depending. Have to be hands on and log your actions, but doable ,new word. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 12 hours ago, Marcia Selsor said: Put a shelf inside the top below lid. Add ceramic fiber on the lid. these will help slow cool. Marcia Good idea,thanks 4 hours ago, Babs said: Ronsa, I used to ,after the sitter dropped, lift it back up, put a weight on the latch, repress the start button, and hold or fire down manually depending. Have to be hands on and log your actions, but doable ,new word. I do that when I'm glaze firing to do a hold I never reconsidered doing that for a controlled cool down. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 Marcia: like minds as they say. I place a shelf two inches below the lid to keep in heat...and it does work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 /agree I always, always place a final kiln shelf over all my work at the top of my kiln. I find it makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 I once placed cer. Fib. On an old kiln lid. It had a little swing cover over a hole on top of kiln. I don't know what it ws for cos I wouldn't be looking down there! Any way the little swing cover melted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 On 11/29/2017 at 8:23 AM, RonSa said: My kiln has a sitter and I don't know a way to slow cool so for the most part I let nature take its own course. if you use a pyrometer, you can turn the kiln back on by gently pushing the button on the setter. Do this at your preferred temp. say 1800 or 1900 and watch it for 1/2 an hour or more. then shut it off. To slow the cooling you could add a kiln shelf or 2 at the top of the load. More mass will hold the heat. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 On 11/29/2017 at 3:12 PM, Pres said: Glad to hear that someone else thinks the shot glass test is worth doing. I try to take much of my glaze test problems out on them as they are easy, take up little kiln space and much easier to judge glaze quality that a test tile. best, Pres toothpick holders are about the same size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 About slowing down the kiln cooling Quote Add ceramic fiber on the lid. I've started looking at ceramic fiber and see its listed as #4 #6 and #8. Normally if something weighs 8lbs it can be listed as 8#. In your opinion is this a typo from the vendor selling it or is it like metal gauges, the small the number the thicker it is? Then there's 1" or 2" thick, no-brainer, thicker = more insulation. I read something that the wool needs to be top coated, is this necessary or can I just spread the blanket on top just when the sitter falls? On 12/2/2017 at 8:07 AM, Marcia Selsor said: if you use a pyrometer, you can turn the kiln back on by gently pushing the button on the setter. Do this at your preferred temp. say 1800 or 1900 and watch it for 1/2 an hour or more. then shut it off. I also plan on purchasing a pyrometer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Ron, not sure about the stuff you've got in US, but it had a reputation for being hazardous to user re. Inhaling it as breaks down. I had a gas kiln lined with it and yes it was coated, top loader, roof sagged and became friable with age. Marcia knows, she uses it in the method above ie moving it to place on lid, but I wouldn't be stuffing around with it continuously, Does come in lots of forms now, bats of it. I'd try firing without it first to see results of firing down with pyrometer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 4 hours ago, RonSa said: I've started looking at ceramic fiber Ron, I would check which type of ceramic fibre you get. The older stuff was really nasty stuff as far as the silica getting into your lungs and staying there. Superwool from Morgan Thermal Ceramics is made to, in theory, be dissolved into lung fluid and is supposed to be far safer. (still sounds yuk doesn't it?) Their health and safety info for it is here, it's for the EU, couldn't find the North American one, I believe they manufacture it on the west coast on this side of the pond. More info here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 This is the only info I can come up with Quote INSWOOL HP is a high purity blanket that is made from a 50 x 50 blend of Alumina and Silica that has superior tensile strength and handling capabilities. If the stuff breaks down and causes silica to become airborne its definitely not for me. Considering the possible health hazard it would be cheaper to buy a new kiln with a controller instead of getting a lung full of the stuff . Thanks for the heads up Here's the link to the product's page Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 2 hours ago, RonSa said: This is the only info I can come up with If the stuff breaks down and causes silica to become airborne its definitely not for me. Considering the possible health hazard it would be cheaper to buy a new kiln with a controller instead of getting a lung full of the stuff . Thanks for the heads up Here's the link to the product's page There are lots of kilns that use ceramic blankets in their construction, just have to do some research as to the safety aspects for the use you intend it for. Sorry, not trying to sound preachy but no point in throwing the baby out with the bath water. Think others here know more about this than I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Ron They now make safer fiber and its marketed as that.Check out eBay for this. As to 4#-6 #and 8# thats the density number. You pay more for denser material which is also a but heaver . Raku kilns that are low temp you can use 4-6 # but high fire hot face should always be 8#.-Fiber hazards need to be looked and and addressed . Just as clay makes dust which is a silica hazard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 I don't think fiber is worth the health risk for the small benefit you'll receive. It's not going to slow down the cooling all that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Thanks Everyone, I think I'm going to use extra mass (shelves & posts) and order a pyrometer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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